yy4u

Hey, here's my situation. I have a T-78 with mods listed below. My bushings are shot and the car "clank"'s badly. Wheel hop has also been a serious problem when launching the car.

I was considering getting a whole set of 18 bushings - probably Jim Lab's bushings, but now i'm thinking of getting the M2 trailing arms and toe links and any other rear bushings that aren't replaced by those (differential, etc).

My question is: Are there any bad affects associated with trailing arms and toe links other than a firmer suspension? Is there any vibration transferred to the chassis from the drivetrain without the rubber bushings? Is this more a result of the toe links or the trailing arms or either or neither?

Any info anyone can offer would be appreciated!!

-Rob

ttpowerd

I got the trailing arms and I don't feel any vibration. Just make sure you tighten them up enough otherwise the "clanking" is unbearable. (would I know from personal experience??)

Johnny

I have the m2 stuff...both.. Didn't notice anything different..will not solve the wheel hop problem but will help a little. I have not installed Jim's bushing, but I have them. from what I have heard the Diff bushings go along way for the wheel hop issue.

lenny

If you have wheelhop and clunking noise, then the first thing to check would be the differential mounts and the power plant frame. My ppf was cracked and it was causing all kinds of noise. The differential mounts were gone also.

The bushings that are known for making clunking noise are usually the pillow ball bushings in the rear suspension. These are not replaced by jimlab's bushings. You can only replace these with mazda parts. Or, with M2 parts if it is the toe links. Lift up the rear of the car and wiggle the wheel around. You can usually locate the source of the problem by doing this.

max cooper wrote a good how-to on his website, www.maxcooper.com check it out.

GoRacer

iTrader: (2)

I did replace the TA & EL with M2's and also some of the rear bearings/bushings which got rid of the clunks.

I have no wheel hop when drag racing but I use Yokohama A032R tires.

JAMMNN

I changed the my TA and TL with M2 I also replaced the 6 upper and lower ball bushings with factory replacments that combo cured all noises and I love it!

Let me know if you want pictures of the rear bushing install?

gfelber

Yup, Lenny's right. The M2 trailing arms will help (assuming PPF/Diff bushings are okay), but will not cure wheel hop. For me, Jim L's Unobtanium bushings were the way to go. I did them one at a time: M2's trailing arms, Unobt. diff.; Unobt. rear (hell, and the fronts too). No wheel hop with 275-40-17 Yok AVS Sports, 245-40-17 Hoosier slicks (A3s), or 285-30-18 BFG slicks (R1As).

The wheel hop did not completely go away until I did the entire rear.

Gene
www.purplemantis.com

Beast From The East

I have the nylon diff bushings but found that Jim's front a-arm replacements clunked REALLY bad and could not get them to stop no matter how hard we tried. It looks like there were some differences in factory tolerances that Jim's bushings couldn't handle due to the material (nylon vs. rubber). So, I didn't do the rears with Jim's bushings - just the diff, M2 TA and TLs, and Mazdacomp 40% rubber bushings front and rear with stock pillow ball replacements (there is no upgrade for those). I don't have wheel hop, but I do have some torque steer in the back, which is not surprising considering my mods.

The diff bushing will transmit some NVH into the car - you'll feel the starter turn over, and feel the primary and secondary turbos spool up through the steering wheel, but you get used to it quickly and after a while it doesn't bother you. If you like to go fast, do it!

Beast