Not adding to the debate here but I just finished revamping my I/C install and wanted to post some pics. This round of upgrades included:

Dale's Viton Check Valves
Some additional silicone vaccum lines
New Air Temp Sensor
Capped AWS
GReddy TB Elbow w/Type S BOV
Turbojeff battery tray w/51R Battery
GReddy oil pedestal with oil temp gauge sender
Slowboy MBC
Some other misc stuff.

Fabbed up some new plumbing for the eBayCooler, lots of room now for ducting the thing and isolating the intakes. Probably got about 6" of clearance out the slim battery and new elbow. Also with some new vacuum lines and a double check of every connection the motor is pulling 16 inHg at idle which is better than it was previously. Calibrated the TPS and everything's running great, no more CELs!

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...d=183261&stc=1

have to add my 2cents
 

hey guys, i just did some testing on my XSPOWER large ic. first of all im very impressed for what i paid for, the packaging was so well together that i got a lil mad because it was package to well lol.

Today i took the car out after i installed my 10" perma cool fan that pulled the air away, i wanted to see if there was a clear diff. the temp outside was 91* and from stop light to stop light the commander was reading 46c/114f and wouldnt move i cut on the perma cool fan and it drop to about 43c/109f i was very pleased witht the numbers so far.
i pulled onto the highway and notice that it was very hot and humid out here in MD, the temps didnt drop until i was about 10 min on the highway i look down and the temps read in the 30c/90f the lowest that it read was 34c/93f with the perma cool fan on. i really couldnt tell if the fan drop even more because the outside temps drop about 8 miles down the highway into the 80's.
if this helps anyone ill deff findout if the fan works, oooh also guys i have the pettie racing cool charge III duct, and my intake sensor is on my greddy elbo. im allso running the mazda speed radiator with fins.
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2.../sbsengine.jpg

I just don't get it. I can't get my piping to fit from the turbo to IC side. There is no way it'll clear my hood, not to mention having a strut brace above it. !!

It won't make a 90 degree angle at the y-pipe outlet, mine sits at an angle in the coupler so that it just barely clears the airpump which gives it plenty of clearance under the strut brace. Its not ideal because I've blown a couple couplers, but I got a more flexible and slightly longer coupler and haven't had problems since.

I wonder if the "hump type" coupler would work better in that location?

Do they bend at the hump? I also have a 45 degree bend coupler which I was thinking about trimming since i think it would encourage the weird angle rather than fight it...

well i had a old pipe that i had with my ARC set up and i just cut out a st8t peice, and it worked well, as you can see in the pics

hey guys i would love hear about simiular IAT such as mine or how you got the temps even cooler, or what to use for a good block off plate, so to close this thread for us that are new, is not cool, just kick that user thats being stupid out of the room, this is helpfull info

Should any other forum members find pin holes in their ebay IC (are there any others?), this vendor recommends an easy solution while discussing a similar issue with his products:

has anyone so far tried to install this IC with an efini Y-pipe?

I plan to.

Do any of you think this thing (Ebay SMIC) will work without relocating the battery and with the stock air box? I see most of you have gone to a "cold air" intake setup, which I don't want to do, but I want to get a slightly larger SMIC. I measured between my airbox and battery and it doesn't look like it'll fit. By the way, I emailed the same question to the sellers, and they of course replied that it will fit great with both the stock airbox in place, and the battery.

It's basically an inexpensive copy of the M2 medium IC, so whatever specs and recommendations it calls for would also apply for this one.

I'm pretty sure you have to totally remove the stock airbox. You do not need a battery relocation to use the kit with the pipes it comes with.

I finally installed my intercooler last week after purchasing the thing last April. I was able to use a straight pipe between the intercooler and the Greddy elbow.

I am having problems with the inercooler shifting in the engine bay while driving the car. When this happens one the couplers ends up poping off and the duct getspushed out of place. Anyone else having this problem?

How are you guys securing your IC in place?

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...Oct2006039.jpg

The problem is because of your straight pipe and the coupler. Get a 45 degree coupler and cut the pipe back.

That's gonna stop the intercooler from shifting?

Try using the Hump Hose Couplers:

http://hosetechniques.com/catalog_pr...Gloss%20Finish

What pipe is that coming off your X-over pipe? This is exactly how I plan to do mine.

Look at his right coupler it is barely holding on to anything.

The reason it is comming off #1 your clamps are not the best and #2 your coupler was never designed to work in that angle. Not very complicated if you ask me. Just get a coupler that will fit onto your pipe in a straight line. They are like 14$ the same price as that IC ;)

im gunna guess and say its the hard S pipe from the Greddy stock ic pipe kit. Very good idea to not even mess with the pipe you get with the kit.

Bingo! Ted is right, it is the Greddy S Pipe just placed sideways. I kinda had it in there temporarily until I can have a pipe made to fit that side of the equation.

What's wrong with that pipe as it is?

Really only for asthetics. I think a straight pipe would clean up the engine bay a little better and I also wanted to get rid of the plastic cross over pipe.

The pipe that comes with it didn't fit into my car for hood clearance. Even now I can't have the torque bar in, I need to cut the pipe down even lower for clearance. :/