PVerdieck

After having the machine down for about 2 months, I have virtually finished installation of Rotary Extreme V-mount (for stock twins), CWR Oil Coolers, Greddy Profec B Spec 1, and Temp gauges.

First, the vmount








Now I did most of the work, with help from friends now and then. A lot of the work is fitting, adjusting, refitting, etc.

A couple issues came up. Originally, I was going to use my M2 airbox, but seeing how the vmount radiator fits flush with the frame rail, that was out unless I wanted to hack the bottom of the airbox. I couldn't bring myself to do that, so I will be selling it. I got the RE airbox.

Chucks instructions say do not tighten down the IC pipes until you know you are done. I wish I had followed his advice, because you aren't nearly done as soon as you think you are.

I had already gotten a Odyssey 680 battery, and when I was thinking about relocating to the bins, I got a nice aluminum mount for it from an NSX site. When it was battery time, I dremelled the drivers bin (that's right. I said I don't care about 20 lbs on the right or left side, of much greater importance was having the functioning bin within reach), and then started looking below. That was when I said @#$@#$ it. At that point, 1) I had already used up all room in the existing grommed at the back of the drivers wheel well with 2 boost lines, 1 boost controller line, and 4 gauge sender lines. Then when it was time to drill the holes through body under the drivers bin, I was in the vicinity of the fuel lines, and I would have had to jack the car up to work there and remove the shields. I didn't have more jackstands, and I wanted the car back. So I tried using the mounting box from the NSX site, but it was about 1/2 inch too wide, even after I had dremelled the right side of it to get it flush on the frame rail. So I ordered the RE battery box.

Lastly, you are nowhere near done, until you have the undertray on. This means you had better have the PS and fan lines routed correctly, as high as possible. I didn't have that, so I had to take the intercooler off and then reroute things a couple times to get them right. As it is, the radiator and fans are going to sit an inch lower than the undertray wants them too. Chuck sent me some spacers and longer bolts, and I had to zip tie the rear 4 connection points, because with the undertray in its new configuration, it will not reach to the back mounting points for bolts/etc.

I also had to dremel it a bit, between the PS lines, and my new oil cooler lines. I removed 1 leg, which I shouldn't have, but that's life.



As for the AC, most of the pipe bending can be done with a standard tube bender, which you can get at Sears for like $20. I did not cut/weld any of the AC lines. Some other bending was done by hand. Getting the AC condenser on was also a pain, because not all the holes lined up with the holes in the flanges Chuck welds on the radiator. I had to dremel the holes on the stock mounts a little to get it to mount. I still have to leak test and charge the AC.

Here is a shot of the new rear oil supply line leading down to the coolers. You can see two gauge senders, the oil temp is in that line, at the bottom of the blue you see, and above it is my previous tap for the fuel pressure.




The water temp probe went into the recommended spot in the cooling neck housing. This became a nightmare, because the 1:00 bolt sheared off at the head when I removed it. Much hassle in getting the bolt out. All methods failed (nuts/vise-grips/stud puller-drill thingies/etc.) Finally ended up drilling it out slowly and retapping, surprisingly with the same thread. I guess the remnants provided enough seating, no leaks and the new bolt is in tight.

Here are a couple shots of my gauge setup. This is the Autometer triple pillar. Frankly, the morons need to redesign it so the gauges are higher. If you are 3/4 feet tall, then you can see them, but otherwise the upper gauges slightly obscure the top of the gauge below.







Setup is Water T, Oil T, EGT (top to bottom on a-pillar) Boost on steering column Fuel P and Oil P on center speaker pod.

As it is, the EGT and Oil P are not hooked up yet. I need to yank the DP and get a bung welded on it. I also need to decide where I am going to mount the Oil P.

The Profec is in, hooked up, but doesn't have power yet. As I understand it, that is a good thing, because I am still running the base PFC maps, and now I have more air, so I'll stay at 7/8 PSI for a while until I have enough money to drop it off at Gotham for WI installation, 850 primaries and tuning.

PVerdieck

I forgot to add this pic. Not vmount related, but who cares.

Here is where I am running my extinguisher. It is reachable by the driver, and out of the way of the passenger. It is secured by ~12 inches of 2" velcro, holding it against the carpet, which I think is more than enough. It takes about 30 lbs of pressure to remove it from the carpet, enough to start pulling the carpet away from the floor/footwell side

FormerPorscheGuy

Congratulations Philip. I am going to have to stop by to see her.

Besides, I owe you some money.

Enconsiderate

nice job!

looks clean

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

what V-mount is that?

Garoad

LOL in the first sentence he say its "rotary extrememe"
www.rotaryextreme.com

PVerdieck

The only problem is, now my UIM looks like **** since it isn't polished

daze

iTrader: (8)

Are you still using stock hood? because v-mount are pretty useless without a vented hood.

LEVY

Clean!

PVerdieck

Bullshit. Who told you that, The Great Pumpkin?

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

damnit haha I read everything under the first three pictures twice looking for it, I R T3H dUmba55

FDreaming

BURN! That is funny!

eidt: BTW that looks awesome! post up some dyno numbers and let us know if it was worth all the work.

1FooknTiteFD

how did you get the radiator for the v-mount to clear the fittings and oil lines for the CWR oil cooler kit?

yellow FE

so are v-mount intercoolers affective with a stock hood or must they be vented? I would assume you would need a ventewd hood to let in/out air better
just curious???
Thanks

rynberg

You most certainly do NOT need a vented hood for a v-mount IC to work efficiently, that is just ridiculous. A FMIC or SMIC doesn't need a vented hood, but a v-mount does? Common sense, people.

Nice pics, Pverdieck. Having recently installed the RE dual oil-coolers setup, I feel your pain.... Good luck and let us know how it performs.

MakoRacing

iTrader: (12)

Good job! It looks great, tell us how you like it.

c00lduke

Vented hoods would just allow for better cooling by increasing air flow, no matter what IC setup you have.

talljosh85

iTrader: (3)

I'm jealous.

actionhank

Liquid money in IC form.
looks good

twokrx7

iTrader: (1)

Get that thing running and bring it out to the next rx7 club meeting!

moehler

iTrader: (12)

very nice...

evot23

iTrader: (17)

Awesome job and congratulations.

RX7_21

erm....a question, but front mount is better than V mount right?

why so many people installed the V mount then?

Broken09

iTrader: (1)

You're gonna open up a big debate with that statement... Check out the single turbo forum there is a big thread in regards to which intercooler kit would you rather have. Different people have different opinions on which is better. Some people feel heat soak will be more prevelant with a V-mount, others feel the opposite.

PVerdieck

That wasn't an issue at all, the two don't interfere with each other. The issue is getting the damn undertray back on, since the radiator/fan combo is now lower (about 1 inch) than the undertray in stock configuration, and some of the CWR oil lines interfere with the undertray as well.