RX7FD

I have a question for all the people who have a stock or very close to stock FD, which is used as a daily driver and is taken care of really well (which proabobly every car here is )

How often do you guys have something go wrong with your car, like something that takes a really long time to fix or something you need to go to a shop to get fixed. Since I am planning on getting an FD this summer I'm doing research right now.

xierro

just use search.....and start reading. I've been on this forum for like a year now and i've only posted like 7 times, most of the time i was reading on stuff that i searched.

RX7FD

Ditto, but this usually does not come about in the search results, and for the record I have searched but I am seeking an awnser from certain people because not everyone on the forum left their car stock or close to stock, and not everyone drives it daily. I agree with you that the search feature is one of the most valuable tools on this forum but I havent had luck on this subject, maybe I didnt put in the right query, or maybe my thread is too specific.

ianlee

I've owned my 93 rx7 for about 2 years so far. 15k has already been put on the new engine so far, and it is an everyday driver for me. Ever since i put in the new engine i haven't had any problems. I changed the original engine at around 80k because back then i was having plenty of problems.
The best thing to look for when buying an rx7 is looking for a 94 or 95 model. The first model had its share of problems but mazda was able to repair them for the 94 and 95 models.
The next thing is to look for an rx7 with low miles if possible; aroyund 40000 to 50000. If you can find one lower than that, great. if not you'll be purchasing a new engine soon.
If you do purchase an rx7 with low miles or find one and just swap out the motor for a new one here are some tips to increase the engines life span.
First, buy a down pipe ($150-$500). Second, look at some sort of intake , i use the racing beat inlet because i wanted to retain my air box ($100). Third, buy a larger all aluminium radiator($360). the stock radiator has plastic tanks and a prone to cracking causing coolant leaks. And last, buy an aluminuim air separator tank ($150). Again the stock unit is prone to cracking and sometimes bursting under harsh driving.
These are the conservative mods which should run you around $800.00 parts. Labor is relative. it took me about 5 months to purchase all this and have it installed so don't worry about having to do it all at once.
The next thing you can do is intercooler, cat-back, etc., but this should be enough to keep you from going to the mechanic constantly. Also if you buy a new engine, make sure they use silicon vaccum hoses instead of the stock rubber iones. It'll save you time, money, and hard times in the future. make sure you change your oil every 3000 miles or less, the turbos really eat up the oil.

Hope you do purchase an rx7 becaus ei asure you that you will love it.

Fish Eye

For the record healthy turbos don't eat, oil it is injected in to the combustion chamber for lubrication.

ianlee

i'm sorry "the turbos really beat up the oil", Jeez

BATMAN

no problems thus far at 113k! w00t
only my clutch... :\

and im getting a weird 3k hesitation.. wich may be grounding problem. but other than that its sailing in the Seas of cheese

Fish Eye

i didn't mean to offend just don't want any misinformation confusing a newbie

spurvo

I bought my early production 93 (#1850!!) in October. It's a single owner, but he didn't know anything about the car and its various proclivities when I spoke to him. Compression was fine, and all was reasonably ok when I test drove it, so I bought. The first sign of trouble was the fans coming on all the time when trying to get the thing emission tested. Cooling system was compromised by some fool using a REALLY OLD filler cap and having removed the top-most pipe plug on the filler neck and not doping the threads when re-installing. Overflow tank was overflowing after shutoff, and coolant light coming on. Thank GOD I ran it with the parking lights on, so it never got above 210F, though of course, the temp gauge NEVER MOVED. Since then..

ALL coolant hoses replaced.
Boost gauge put in (12-10-12 with DP)
down pipe put in (Pettit, easy as pie!)
O2 sensor replaced
Fuel filter replaced (actually moved to front with K&N Billet)
Radiator replaced (Fluidyne)
AST replaced (Pettit again)
Temp gauge linearized
All fluids replaced
Spark plugs replaced
Fan mod that directly turns on the relays performed
Belts replaced
Ground wires replaced and upgraded
Battery post connectors upgraded (stock ones POS!!!)

I'm NOT going to say all is well now, as that invites disaster. I will say that it has performed very well SO FAR, since all of the work has been finished. All of the work was performed by me, on the weekends Cost has been in the $2500 or so range (maybe $3000. I stopped counting )

Next up: Pull the injectors and ancillary fuel handleing parts for cleaning by RC. Will probably do some hose work at that time, though nothing's wrong, so I'm a little leary... Turbos need to be pulled and inspected (manifold cracking, shaft end play, oil passages and coolant passages cleaned, and rebuilt if out of spec), LIM may need it's gasket replaced (early model paper, and have exhaust leak, though vacuum is 17 to 19 at idle).

I've had no down time, but I'm just in front of the failure curve I think, so preventitive maintenence is the key! I replace my oil ~1700 miles, and the oil filter every other change (stuff is pretty dark when it comes out, and lots of gasoline from blowby!). I just swapped the fuel filter, and the element in the K&N is proving difficult to clean properly (little spherical deposits in the mesh, visible under microscope. I'm certifiably insane, BTW).

That's what I know. If you get one that's been unabused and unmodded, a little PM will go a long way toward a really sophisticated daily driver. And just a little tap on the throttle burries the Camaros, BMWs, Mustangs, Acuras, etc. Even stock

chaste94

I have a completely stock 94 touring that I daily drive. It has 58000 miles on the original motor and so far no problems. I do plan to install an aluminum ast and a downpipe. I've replaced the radiator hoses and changed out all the fluids. I'm keeping my fingers crossed, but she seems to be doing just fine.

RX7FD

Thanks everyone, the reason I ask is also because I wonder if i will be able to afford the parts and perform the nessescary modifications myself. I havent had a lot of hands on work with engines, but i have read a great deal, and before I install or remove anything I plan on doing extensive research. My dad used to be an automotive engineer so he can help me with some stuff, and of course theres always everyone on this forum. So I figure if i get an FD I will baby it until i have enough money to replace the AST, Radiatior, Downpipe, Water temp guage, and new vaccum hoses, and add a boost and A/F ratio guage.

Also would it be a good idea to replace most of the hoses with steel braided ones that have those screw on connectors?? Or would this bee to costly??

-Thanks

RX7FD

Anyone?

spurvo

Don't you have to replace the point the screw in connectors screw into? Like the radiator mounts, or the nipples on the filler neck? So you have to remove the nipple, drill out the hole, tap it with the proper thread size, and screw in the adaptor, and this only works for those connections you can do this to, right?

Seems expensive and unnecessary to me, but WTFDIK?

RX7FD

Im not shure, I think you clamp something over the existing connection then put on the adapter over it.

spurvo

so you STILL rely ultimately on a clamp? Where's RonK to answer this?

ShortBusRiot

Reliability . . . hummm whats that?
Well they are plenty reliable if you keep em cool. Who needs more than 80k on a sports car anyway?! By then you would want a motor upgrade so whats the problem?

Rx-7$4$me

I have a 93 with 78k on the original engine, mods are listed below.

The only prob I had was a boost leak which I fixed with the vacuum line job.

I use 10w30 castrol GTx that I change every 2k miles.

RX7FD

Rx-7$4$me: I see you live in Chicago, do you drive your car in the winter??

I have another question, wouldnt it be better for the car if i drove it in the freezing weather we have here in chicago, because if i get one ill have no choice but to drive it in the winter.

-Thanks for the help so far everyone

Rx-7$4$me

u live in buffalo grove?? wow I live in glenview. know wehre that is? well right now I can tell u that if uever have a problem, I can help you no doubt about it.Yes I Drive my car rightnow, but never when it snows

the car is much faster in the cold weather, but u gotta be careful not to overboost or spin because its much easier with cold pavement. I just dont drive if it snows.

its smart to have a beater but I dont lol.

Rx-7$4$me

message me on AIm if u wanna chat xxRx7x2xNVxx