Another one bites the dust...
#26
Also, just cause you charged your battery overnight, it doesn't necessarily mean it's doing its job. I bet when you caused that spark, it shorted something out, maybe it has a bad cell now. Try jump starting it like I said. That way you're using all 12v+ from the other car's battery (make sure the other car is running). If that doesn't work, then it's deffenetly flooded. You probably flooded it for trying to turn it over so many times. It probably didn't have enough juice to spark but enough to dump fuel in your engine. Get some spark plugs, it's probably due for new ones anyways.
#27
i paid 10,800 for the car. the guy told me everything what was wrong with it and this was one of the things he told me "youll need a newb attery soon, you might also need new battery cables... and a news tarter soon aswell" and i jsut got new spark plugs about 2 days ago. but my spark plug wires are in bad shape
#33
Hey Manny,
Here's some things you can do and/or think about before ya'll get together Friday.
First of all, did the engine die when you shorted the alternator, or did it keep running? If it died, then something most likley fried. On the other hand, something could have partially fried & it kept running, then died upon re-start try.
First - check for error codes. With iginition off - Use a short (3-5") wire and jumper the diagnostic connector pin 10 to GND. Now trun key on, but not to start. Check Engine light will blink out the error code - if any. It wil be long blink(s) followed by short blink(s). For example. LLLSS would be error #32 - look in the manual (section F, I think) for a list of the codes and their meaning.
REMOVE JUMPER
IF ERROR CODE - follow trouble shooting directions for that code.
IF NO CODE - check for spark. Remove one of the plug wires and stick a screwdriver in it so that the shaft is within 1/4" of a ground - engine bolt or something. Could usa a heavy guage wire, or could remove the plug and touch the threads to ground. Have someone crank the engine and look for a spark to jump across the 1/4" gap. MAKE SURE THERE"S NO FUEL PRESENT (you'll set yourself and the car on fire) MAKE SURE NOT TO BE TOUCHING THE SCREWDRIVER. IT'LL KNOCK YOU ON YOUR *** - but at least you'll know you got spark if it does.
IF NO SPARK - check the manual for possible causes. And get back to us. I don't have manual wit me right now.
IF SPARK - check for fuel. Follow manual for fuel system checks. I.E. jumpering the diag connector f/p to ??
That should be enough for now. Other than if you have an Ohmeter, you can test all your breakers. One at a time please. Just on the hunch that if something fried, it's likley to be a breaker that goes first.
Casus
Here's some things you can do and/or think about before ya'll get together Friday.
First of all, did the engine die when you shorted the alternator, or did it keep running? If it died, then something most likley fried. On the other hand, something could have partially fried & it kept running, then died upon re-start try.
First - check for error codes. With iginition off - Use a short (3-5") wire and jumper the diagnostic connector pin 10 to GND. Now trun key on, but not to start. Check Engine light will blink out the error code - if any. It wil be long blink(s) followed by short blink(s). For example. LLLSS would be error #32 - look in the manual (section F, I think) for a list of the codes and their meaning.
REMOVE JUMPER
IF ERROR CODE - follow trouble shooting directions for that code.
IF NO CODE - check for spark. Remove one of the plug wires and stick a screwdriver in it so that the shaft is within 1/4" of a ground - engine bolt or something. Could usa a heavy guage wire, or could remove the plug and touch the threads to ground. Have someone crank the engine and look for a spark to jump across the 1/4" gap. MAKE SURE THERE"S NO FUEL PRESENT (you'll set yourself and the car on fire) MAKE SURE NOT TO BE TOUCHING THE SCREWDRIVER. IT'LL KNOCK YOU ON YOUR *** - but at least you'll know you got spark if it does.
IF NO SPARK - check the manual for possible causes. And get back to us. I don't have manual wit me right now.
IF SPARK - check for fuel. Follow manual for fuel system checks. I.E. jumpering the diag connector f/p to ??
That should be enough for now. Other than if you have an Ohmeter, you can test all your breakers. One at a time please. Just on the hunch that if something fried, it's likley to be a breaker that goes first.
Casus
#34
the engine was off when i grounded it. after igroudned it, i turned it on and it started fine. i have no idea how to check the error codes man. and i dont know how to check for spark either
#35
Well thanks to my dad i got the car running again. He helped me jump start it and it didnt budge. i unplugged the egi fuse or w/e and i cranked it 3 times for about 10-15 secs. then i took out the sparkplugs and they were soaked. i dried them out and jump started again and it got up. my idle was at like 300ish so my dad got it back up to 750-800. i went to gas station got someone to say "what year is that viper" i put 20 bucks of 93 to get it half way. now im here and im about to wash it then probally stop by autozone and buy some gunk to clean the engine. thanks for all the help guys i really appreciate it. w/o u guys i prob would be spending all my money and ****. ill prob be back in a few days because something else will **** up. and btw i foudn my exhaust leak. it started smoking when i got the car started. its where the manifold area is, i believe its common but its goign to be a bitch to get in there. ttyl time to clean!
#36
I figured it was flooded. Let me give you a piece of advice. Don't worry so much about cleaning under the hood for now. Get all the bugs works out of it, and then clean under there. As far as the exhaust leak. I read one of your other threads, and you said you're leaking oil around the turbos. That smoke you saw was most likely oil burning off the manifold, not an exhaust leak. Did you get the car registered yet?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post