Another blown engine.....
06-24-09 | 09:57 PM
#26
Well i worked on the car a bunch today and made some more progress.. I basically started taking everything off, getting it ready for the motor to be hoisted out of the car. I found out the brand of the Intercooler is God speed. Which i have found out is a "ebay" brand.
While inspecting the intercooler i have found no faults, and no major dents. Even though it is possible that a fin "could have" broken off internally. although highly unlikely, we will have to see when the diagnosis is done when taking apart the engine. Never heard of an intercooler coming apart before.
I check the Greddy intake elbow, along with throttle body and intake manifold, all of them are perfect. No chance of chipped of flying debris. The intake piping is short, containng only 2 welds total, and they are both 100% perfectly welded from the outside with no chance of dribble or cracks. I always kept the intake filter on and the Intake turbo has 0 damage. So if there was an actual "foriegn object". It would probably be narrowed down to the Intercooler. So we will see...
Unfortunately, i found Slight damage on the exhaust fins, only on inside. I've never seen apex seal failure before, Would have it been worse than this?
Thankyou I have considered Rotary Resurrection and heard great thing, I am also considering Rotor sports which is the place the previous owner had this motor build which ran great. I have heard great things about them. I also am considering taking on the help of a helpful member of the forum.( whos name i will leave out ).. I do not have the funds for a rebuild currently but this is something that i will have done very shortly. 
Thankyou for your helpful knowlage Howard, i will be sure to check out your informational thread. I appriciate all your help!! 
I started to take apart the engine so it is ready to be hoisted out. I am going to take the tranny out with the engine. '
I can't wait to have my FD running right. And hopefully looking to make a little more power than the 360whp as well :P
While inspecting the intercooler i have found no faults, and no major dents. Even though it is possible that a fin "could have" broken off internally. although highly unlikely, we will have to see when the diagnosis is done when taking apart the engine. Never heard of an intercooler coming apart before.
I check the Greddy intake elbow, along with throttle body and intake manifold, all of them are perfect. No chance of chipped of flying debris. The intake piping is short, containng only 2 welds total, and they are both 100% perfectly welded from the outside with no chance of dribble or cracks. I always kept the intake filter on and the Intake turbo has 0 damage. So if there was an actual "foriegn object". It would probably be narrowed down to the Intercooler. So we will see...
Unfortunately, i found Slight damage on the exhaust fins, only on inside. I've never seen apex seal failure before, Would have it been worse than this?
The compression test is pretty conclusive you have blown apex seals. Take the car to Kevin@rotaryresurrection.com. He is a great guy and will give you a great deal and offer probably some of the best service in the country.
David
David
don't drive with a blown coolant seal unless you plan to junk the iron. if it is an inner seal, which is generally the case, the combustion rushing thru the gap will eventually melt the seal-supporting rail in the iron. at that point the iron is junk unless you spend more than it's value to do some fancy welding/machining.
my guess is the motor overheated before you bought the car. this led to the seal failure. often a combo of coolant seal and carbon end up creating broken apex seals. our motors are tuned too rich in an ineffective attempt to cool the high Combustion Chamber Pressures (CCP).
additionally contributing to failure is the External Oil Pump (EOP) which is busy pumping carbon filled crankcase oil onto the apex seals.
carbon can be extremely hard. i have seen engines w rotors coated with almost a tenth of an inch of carbon. apex seal to groove clearance should be 3 thou. it doesn't take much to muck it up. if you get blockage in the groove the apex seal is unable to rotate and breaks.
you get off the gas with a coolant leak and vacuum draws coolant into the motor. the coolant dislodges a flake of carbon and you have broken apex seals.
there are fixes to all this.. they aren't in the Mazda FSM.
(read my thread... "Making the case for the rotary powered FD... The Fix")
as to finding the "right" apex seal.. you need to fix the cause of the seal failure. fix it and most seals will work fine.
welcome to FD-land. either find someone who knows what they are doing or read up and consider it to be a long term project. properly fixtured FDs are just as reliable as your previous car but only after a bit of re-engineering.
to many of us, the performance of a properly tuned out FD makes the effort worthwhile.
good luck,
howard
my guess is the motor overheated before you bought the car. this led to the seal failure. often a combo of coolant seal and carbon end up creating broken apex seals. our motors are tuned too rich in an ineffective attempt to cool the high Combustion Chamber Pressures (CCP).
additionally contributing to failure is the External Oil Pump (EOP) which is busy pumping carbon filled crankcase oil onto the apex seals.
carbon can be extremely hard. i have seen engines w rotors coated with almost a tenth of an inch of carbon. apex seal to groove clearance should be 3 thou. it doesn't take much to muck it up. if you get blockage in the groove the apex seal is unable to rotate and breaks.
you get off the gas with a coolant leak and vacuum draws coolant into the motor. the coolant dislodges a flake of carbon and you have broken apex seals.
there are fixes to all this.. they aren't in the Mazda FSM.
(read my thread... "Making the case for the rotary powered FD... The Fix")
as to finding the "right" apex seal.. you need to fix the cause of the seal failure. fix it and most seals will work fine.
welcome to FD-land. either find someone who knows what they are doing or read up and consider it to be a long term project. properly fixtured FDs are just as reliable as your previous car but only after a bit of re-engineering.
to many of us, the performance of a properly tuned out FD makes the effort worthwhile.
good luck,
howard
I started to take apart the engine so it is ready to be hoisted out. I am going to take the tranny out with the engine. '
I can't wait to have my FD running right. And hopefully looking to make a little more power than the 360whp as well :P
08-09-09 | 11:14 AM
#29
hey if your thinking about brian at rotorsports he a really great guy and they have been in the biz for a long time, plus its not to far from you. i dropped mine off for tuning last week and really liked how i was treated.
08-10-09 | 01:26 PM
#31
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,045
Likes: 0
From: NC
additionally contributing to failure is the External Oil Pump (EOP) which is busy pumping carbon filled crankcase oil onto the apex seals.
carbon can be extremely hard. i have seen engines w rotors coated with almost a tenth of an inch of carbon. apex seal to groove clearance should be 3 thou. it doesn't take much to muck it up. if you get blockage in the groove the apex seal is unable to rotate and breaks.
carbon can be extremely hard. i have seen engines w rotors coated with almost a tenth of an inch of carbon. apex seal to groove clearance should be 3 thou. it doesn't take much to muck it up. if you get blockage in the groove the apex seal is unable to rotate and breaks.
Four years and counting for me at 15 psi with no issues whatsoever, although I'm running BNR Stage 2s and a 3 mm street port.
08-10-09 | 01:51 PM
#32
engine is bare but still in the car.. waiting for a few friends to come over so we can lift it out.. than i will be giving an update.
Amen to that, anyone running the stock OMP is nuts imo, it was always a band-aid. Run a good synthetic two stroke pre-mix like Idemitsu, or my personal favorite, Amsoil "Interceptor" (which is designed for two stroke engines with power valves, and I know it works because I've inspected the power valves on my GP1200R and they look great) and blow it out good with a full boost run every time you take the car out.
Four years and counting for me at 15 psi with no issues whatsoever, although I'm running BNR Stage 2s and a 3 mm street port.
Four years and counting for me at 15 psi with no issues whatsoever, although I'm running BNR Stage 2s and a 3 mm street port.
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