Aluminum Door Scuff Plates -- do they?
#1
Aluminum Door Scuff Plates -- do they?
Just installing the aluminum door sil scuff plates.
? Do they go "over" the plastic rx7 sils or do you take the plastic ones off?
They will fit either way, I just put the passenger side on "over" the old plastic,
but before I drrill the driver's side, wanted to check.
Seems like they are molded to fit "over", but it also seems that they might sit lower if the plastics are removed.
Thanks for any input.
? Do they go "over" the plastic rx7 sils or do you take the plastic ones off?
They will fit either way, I just put the passenger side on "over" the old plastic,
but before I drrill the driver's side, wanted to check.
Seems like they are molded to fit "over", but it also seems that they might sit lower if the plastics are removed.
Thanks for any input.
#2
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
The aluminum scuff plates replace the existing plastic sills. They may sit on top of them, but no way is your door closing.
You have to drill two small holes to mount them properly.... i've had two pairs on my FD over the years and love them
You have to drill two small holes to mount them properly.... i've had two pairs on my FD over the years and love them
#3
I did away with the plastic bits myself. Even then mine have got a bit scraped though whether that's because of the bottom of the door scuffing them or my lazy heavy hooves getting in and out I'm not sure.
#4
Yep, you have to remove the stock plastic plates. The two screws that hold it in attach with well nuts.
Basically, put the plate in place and mark the two holes. Drill out the holes, pop the well nuts in there, then screw into the well nuts.
Well nuts are rubber parts, look like an upside-down Abe Lincoln hat, with a metal insert that's threaded. Push it into the hole, put the plate on, and when you tighten the screw up the rubber expands and gets tight in the hole, keeping it in place.
Not sure of the size you need, most hardware stores have them.
McMaster-Carr page on well nuts -
http://www.mcmaster.com/#well-nuts/=dsv83t
Dale
Basically, put the plate in place and mark the two holes. Drill out the holes, pop the well nuts in there, then screw into the well nuts.
Well nuts are rubber parts, look like an upside-down Abe Lincoln hat, with a metal insert that's threaded. Push it into the hole, put the plate on, and when you tighten the screw up the rubber expands and gets tight in the hole, keeping it in place.
Not sure of the size you need, most hardware stores have them.
McMaster-Carr page on well nuts -
http://www.mcmaster.com/#well-nuts/=dsv83t
Dale
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#10
Probably not any real advantage. The well nuts are supposed to work well in hollow
situations like this -- the inside is threaded metal and when tightened expands somewhat
to snug up. I'm sure either way will keep them in place.
situations like this -- the inside is threaded metal and when tightened expands somewhat
to snug up. I'm sure either way will keep them in place.
#12
I ordered a carpet set from one of the auto interior places a couple of years ago. Replaced the original with the black and then reupholstered the seats in the original color to match the doors.
#15
Carpet fit would have been perfect, it's the install that makes the difference.
I laid the new one across the original and the form was right on.
Trouble was me not being good enough at the finer points of the install.
OEM carpet up underneath the radio area was a problem to get out.
There is a "form?" that is under the oem carpet that doesn't come with new
carpet, so you have to separate it from the old and reuse -- that's a little
bit of work.
I would do it again though, new capet makes a big differnce. It's been in for
2 years and still looks new.
I laid the new one across the original and the form was right on.
Trouble was me not being good enough at the finer points of the install.
OEM carpet up underneath the radio area was a problem to get out.
There is a "form?" that is under the oem carpet that doesn't come with new
carpet, so you have to separate it from the old and reuse -- that's a little
bit of work.
I would do it again though, new capet makes a big differnce. It's been in for
2 years and still looks new.
#17
Hey Ppritchard, dont mean to hijack your thread..
But i took the advice you gave me regarding the wet and dry sand paper in order to clean up the scratched on my used scuff plates.
Mine were in really poor condition, the existing layer of lacquer that was originally on the scuff plates was scratched/peeling.
I ended up used a few different grades of wet and dry sand paper to get the existing lacquer and major scratches off. Then used a buffing wheel to bring them up to a nice shine. Was planning on painting the RX7 black, but in the end left it gold. Might do black if i redo them in the future. Added a few coats of alloy lacquer to seal it.
Ive added a before and after pic. Looks much better!
But i took the advice you gave me regarding the wet and dry sand paper in order to clean up the scratched on my used scuff plates.
Mine were in really poor condition, the existing layer of lacquer that was originally on the scuff plates was scratched/peeling.
I ended up used a few different grades of wet and dry sand paper to get the existing lacquer and major scratches off. Then used a buffing wheel to bring them up to a nice shine. Was planning on painting the RX7 black, but in the end left it gold. Might do black if i redo them in the future. Added a few coats of alloy lacquer to seal it.
Ive added a before and after pic. Looks much better!
#18
Wow! Nice job on the polishing. You might as well move on to the UIM now that you have the mirror thing down. Looks great. I've seen the letters painted black and red, both looked good -- all depends on the interior (I think).
ppritchard
ppritchard
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