All I did was the fuel filter...
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All I did was the fuel filter...
I got out of a tech session at a local Mazda dealer that was held by the local club. All I did was replace the fuel filter and three inches of hose on the straight pipe of the filter. I did the standard depressurization by pulling the fuse, and everything was where it was when I started it.
As I left the shop, I couldn't do a hard accleration. I was sputtering and hesitating when I was heavily accelerating.
I would say it was the injectors, but they are new (all four.) My next guess is something got into the lines aside from air, and is interfereing with the injectors somehow. My first urge is to send it in to have the fuel system flushed and checked.
If anyone has any other ideas, let me know. Thanks in advance.
As I left the shop, I couldn't do a hard accleration. I was sputtering and hesitating when I was heavily accelerating.
I would say it was the injectors, but they are new (all four.) My next guess is something got into the lines aside from air, and is interfereing with the injectors somehow. My first urge is to send it in to have the fuel system flushed and checked.
If anyone has any other ideas, let me know. Thanks in advance.
#2
Try the Throttle Position Sensor (tps). Behind throttle body. Unless it is the 3k hesitation which I doubt from what you said, it could be the tps. if the wires became loose or the plug got yanked a little, it will cause that problem. Check to make sure the plug is in the whole way and the connection is good. After that, I am not sure, but good luck.
#3
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Did you re-pressurize the system after you changed the filter? You need to prime it by jumping the F/P and GND connectors in the diagnostics box, then turn on the key for ~10 seconds, then turn off the key, remove the jumper wire and start the car.
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In my zeal to be a masochist last night to change the fuel filter (based on the location, you all should know) I forgot the basic safety protocol by disconnecting the battery, therby deactivating the diagnostic computer. I went through the diagnostic computer reset protocols this morning (disconnect the battery, wait 20+ seconds, press the brake, and reconnect the battery,) and everything is now back to normal.
All I can say is
All I can say is
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I've never read about or heard of this computer reset procedure. Does this apply to 2nd Gens as well? And does the brake need to be depressed WHILE the battery is reconnected? Someone enlighten me please...
Thanks! Kevin
Thanks! Kevin
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cewrx7r1 is right you will need reset the computer by disconnecting the battery and depressing the brakes for 20 seconds and reconnecting. It should be done after any engine electrical work.
The engine will start but will not go more the apr. 3000 rpms
The engine will start but will not go more the apr. 3000 rpms
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Fuel filter change
Did I miis something here ?????? What part of changing the fuel filter is electrical ???/ Unless your talking about pulling the fuel pump relay and letting the car die to drain off fuel pressure. I never unhooked my battery when I did the filter. Repressurizing the system was just as simple....I can only guess you didn't repressurize the system and caused some kind of error code or ECU fault ???? Let me know what you figure out.
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