All coolant hose part numbers
#1
All coolant hose part numbers
The FD's are getting old and the rubber coolant hoses are often overlooked. As high as the underhood temps of these cars are all hoses should be replaced.
Here are all the Mazda part numbers for every coolant hose:
radiator hoses:
N3A1-15-185A lower radiator hose
N3A1-15-186 upper radiator hose
turbo coolant hoses:
N3A1-13-536 turbo coolant hose #1
N3A1-13-54X turbo coolant hose #2
AST hoses:
N3A1-15-380C AST to overflow bottle
N3A1-15-184A AST to radiator
N3A1-15-183 AST to coolant neck
throttle body hoses:
N3A1-13-681A upper throttle body
N3A1-13-691B lower throttle body
N3a1-13-692A water pump housing to hard line (behind alternator)
heater hoses:
FD01-61-213B block to firewall hard line (driver side)
FD01-61-212A heater core at firewall
FD01-61-214A water pump housing to hardline (passenger side)
FD01-61-211A hardline to heater core (passenger side)
Here are all the Mazda part numbers for every coolant hose:
radiator hoses:
N3A1-15-185A lower radiator hose
N3A1-15-186 upper radiator hose
turbo coolant hoses:
N3A1-13-536 turbo coolant hose #1
N3A1-13-54X turbo coolant hose #2
AST hoses:
N3A1-15-380C AST to overflow bottle
N3A1-15-184A AST to radiator
N3A1-15-183 AST to coolant neck
throttle body hoses:
N3A1-13-681A upper throttle body
N3A1-13-691B lower throttle body
N3a1-13-692A water pump housing to hard line (behind alternator)
heater hoses:
FD01-61-213B block to firewall hard line (driver side)
FD01-61-212A heater core at firewall
FD01-61-214A water pump housing to hardline (passenger side)
FD01-61-211A hardline to heater core (passenger side)
Last edited by DamonB; 08-05-04 at 12:00 PM.
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fc3s-ty (04-25-22)
#2
i am looking to buy these
thanks for the info, my only question is how much will these all cost?
I am short on funds now, and dont want to call store and waste thier time looking up parts if i cant afford. also who did buy them from
thanks
I am short on funds now, and dont want to call store and waste thier time looking up parts if i cant afford. also who did buy them from
thanks
#4
great
thanks i am on my way to mazdatrix
after checking it out i can definantly afford this now. i thought it would be like $50.00 per hose or something.-----> on my way to malloy
after checking it out i can definantly afford this now. i thought it would be like $50.00 per hose or something.-----> on my way to malloy
Last edited by TainoIndian; 07-26-04 at 02:38 PM.
#6
So far I have paid:
$18 for the upper turbo hose
$28 for the heater hard line to the pump housing
$11 for the lower turbo hose
$07 for the lower UIM hose
BTW, the lower turbo hose is a PITA to get to. It is very hard to get the lower turbo hose clamp off; especially when the engine assembler left the tangs of the clamp at a 05:35 attitude.
Has anyone replaced the spring clamp with a screw type?
$18 for the upper turbo hose
$28 for the heater hard line to the pump housing
$11 for the lower turbo hose
$07 for the lower UIM hose
BTW, the lower turbo hose is a PITA to get to. It is very hard to get the lower turbo hose clamp off; especially when the engine assembler left the tangs of the clamp at a 05:35 attitude.
Has anyone replaced the spring clamp with a screw type?
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#14
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 6,136
Likes: 563
From: Florence, Alabama
thanks Damon.
i remember driving my 80,000 mile 1st gen on the expressway and smelling just a whiff of coolant. i immediately switched off the ignition. it was a rupture in the driver's side coolant line from the heater/firewall to the block just below the oil filter.
the engine vibrates, the firewall connection doesn't...... creating lots of challenges for that specific hose.
the two coolant hoses absorbing all these vibrations are the driver's side firewall to just below the oil filter and the front coolant hose from the hardpipe ( runs alongside the motor )to the front of the motor on the passenger side.
mix in our underhood temperatures and the fact that the rotary is prone to immediate failure from coolant loss, unlike a piston engine, and you should have significant motivation to call Ray.
either buy some new coolant hoses or a motor.
howard coleman
i remember driving my 80,000 mile 1st gen on the expressway and smelling just a whiff of coolant. i immediately switched off the ignition. it was a rupture in the driver's side coolant line from the heater/firewall to the block just below the oil filter.
the engine vibrates, the firewall connection doesn't...... creating lots of challenges for that specific hose.
the two coolant hoses absorbing all these vibrations are the driver's side firewall to just below the oil filter and the front coolant hose from the hardpipe ( runs alongside the motor )to the front of the motor on the passenger side.
mix in our underhood temperatures and the fact that the rotary is prone to immediate failure from coolant loss, unlike a piston engine, and you should have significant motivation to call Ray.
either buy some new coolant hoses or a motor.
howard coleman
#15
Originally Posted by howard coleman
i remember driving my 80,000 mile 1st gen on the expressway and smelling just a whiff of coolant. i immediately switched off the ignition.
Back then I didn't know where all the hoses were. Starting over again I would have replaced them all the first week or two I had the car.
#16
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,580
Likes: 567
From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
Originally Posted by RX7 RAGE
I'm down for another group buy on coolant hoses from Ray.
#20
Originally Posted by BLKTOPTRVL
So far I have paid:
Has anyone replaced the spring clamp with a screw type?
Has anyone replaced the spring clamp with a screw type?
yes, the 2nd turbo hose is a PITA!! i have screw type on both, they came loose after 70,000 so it is something to be retightend every 50k i would assume. they were leaking on the turbos.. just enough to loose coolant but never see any on the ground, i hope this solves my over flow problem.
#22
Does anyone know what type exactly these rubber coolant hoses are made of?
Cause i think it would be cheaper and make more sense in the longrun to go to like an autozone and getting a roll and just cutting to your desired length.
Also have any of you used silicone hose instead of rubber hose for coolant?
SARD sells a roll for coolant, wondering if thats any good.
Cause i think it would be cheaper and make more sense in the longrun to go to like an autozone and getting a roll and just cutting to your desired length.
Also have any of you used silicone hose instead of rubber hose for coolant?
SARD sells a roll for coolant, wondering if thats any good.
#23
The main issue is that the OEM hoses are pre-formed. You can use standard "heater hose" from NAPA or Autozone, but you'll end up getting kinks in the lines to make the required bends. You can also get pre-formed heater hoses made for other cars and cut them up for your own use. However, that will end up being just as expensive and more time consuming than just getting the OEM hoses.
#24
#25
Does anyone know what type exactly these rubber coolant hoses are made of?
Cause i think it would be cheaper and make more sense in the longrun to go to like an autozone and getting a roll and just cutting to your desired length.
Also have any of you used silicone hose instead of rubber hose for coolant?
SARD sells a roll for coolant, wondering if thats any good.
Cause i think it would be cheaper and make more sense in the longrun to go to like an autozone and getting a roll and just cutting to your desired length.
Also have any of you used silicone hose instead of rubber hose for coolant?
SARD sells a roll for coolant, wondering if thats any good.
L8R