Hey, I'm sure a few of you guys have run into the same problem I'm facing. Anyways my air conditioning has started loosing it's cool, prompting the need for a freeon boost, but the problem is nobody deals with R12 anymore so I would need to do a R134A conversion and I was just wondering how much this would cost, and what was involved, also, since I learned this could be a costly process has anyone gone the cheaper route by mixing R12 with R134A, and how is it working, thanks alot.

 

my air went out on my car i just went to the local auto parts place got some freon and put it in??

so i guess there is no change over besides the plug in is different. i think...

 

Dont mix the two it causes high head pressure! If its leaking i would do the 134 change over its cheaper and you can buy it anywere.

 

You CAN'T 'mix' R12 and R134. They are non-compatible.
You can do a conversion but be aware, you need to FIX YOUR PROBLEM first. You most likely have a leaky o-ring somewhere. Even the most minor of leaks will be worse with R134, its molecules migrate easier.

 

fully converting r12 to 134 is much more involved than just evacuating the r12.

the lines need to be cleaned out from the oil including the compressor.....

IF its going to be done the right way....

working on an A/C system is never EVER cheap.

 

Thanks for all the help, the only reason i was going to do R134A or the mix is because thats all I can do in Canada, but when i pick the car up in the states I will just have the leak check done like you guys said and then probably just have an R12 boost while I'm down there since its sounding like the easier way to go.

 

At first I converted to 134 cause I think I had a leak. All I did was change the fittings, and shot in some 134 with my manifold gauge set. was cool while driving, but not as much while stationary. besides, I want COLD, not COOL air. so, I removed the 134, got ahold of some R12, and shot it back in the system. Best part is the 134 gauges cause I can still use my manifold set. Now I've got ICE COLD air. Oh, and at one point, after last winter, it lost a little charge, so I shot a can of 134 on top of the 12. No harm done, works fine, compressor cycles like normal, and head pressure doesn't get too high.

 

i guess i am lucky i can buy all the r12 plus the adaptor i want

 

SD93FD3S, where do you get your r12 from?

 

I'm in San Diego ca. i work @ the border so mexico is the place to buy this thing

 

If you can't get R12, go with Envirosafe ES12a. Troubleshoot the problem first, read the AC section in the factory body electric manual.

 

****! Let me know where I can get some! How much do you pay for it?

 

5 BUCKS FOR THE ADAPTOR and like $9 per bottle

 

Mike,
Hook a brother up!

 

Wat UP!!!! i'll swing my (1) last bottle your way bro!!! i'll recharge you @ the pie run. takes less then 10min. each bottle just make sure the system is not leaking.

 

Sounds like a plan!

 

I charged my system with Envirosafe ES12, its outstanding, best thing it works like r12 but cost as much as 134a, it works with any oil and you dont need to pull a vacuum to charge it.

 

Beware Mexican R-12. Not the best stuff from what the automotive mags say.
'Course, they could be full of **** too....lol

 

bajaman----lol could be true but its a lie. i am going on close to a month since i recharge with this stuff and still blows strong and clean. will monitor though.

 

Dumb question, but where exactly is the charging valve located in the car?

My air conditioning has gone out completely. The compressor clutch does not engage. However, if I jumper the refrigerant pressure switch in the connector, per the Manual Troubleshooting Guide, it does engage, but there's still no cooling. So I'm assuming I'm out of R12 ('93 car). Does this sound reasonable?

Where can I buy Envirosafe? I'm in CA

Thanks

Dave

 

MY FD is R134A converted, and being in AZ its not quite what i like, kinda wish it was left R12 . . .

I have FREEZE12 in my FC, it's poorly charged and it still works!

Can ES12 be used in R12 and R134a systems?

 

Over on the passenger side by the ABS pump.

Sounds reasonable to me. Be sure to have the system evacuated so there's no air in the system. Probably should replace the drier too.

 

Allegedly, yes.

 

if i remember correctly when changing your system to 134 you need to change your drier the material inside is different for the two different types, also the oil needs to be changed as well. A few evacs on the system should do it well enough to run it, just make sure to change the drier.

 

pm me if you guys have any questions