Aftermarket Radiators: How much do they help?
#1
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Golf Cart Hooligan
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From: Philadelphia, PA
Aftermarket Radiators: How much do they help?
Compared to the stock radiator how much do aftermarkst radiators help? What are the temp differences?
I know that you should upgrade to an aluminium radiator because the stock plastic end tanks tend to fail, but the previous owner of my car put in a brand new stock radiator.
I just wanted to know if it would be worth it for me to spend $400 on an aluminium radiator.
I know that you should upgrade to an aluminium radiator because the stock plastic end tanks tend to fail, but the previous owner of my car put in a brand new stock radiator.
I just wanted to know if it would be worth it for me to spend $400 on an aluminium radiator.
#2
tough call!! Since it's BRAND new i would say spend 400 bucks on somethimg else. It is a great realiability mod for piece of mind. But you could get a DP, or CB,intake, or stash for that front mount you want so bad!WooHoo!! Do it later though if you plan on it lasting.
#4
What price do you put on piece of mind?
Not only do you get additional capacity, it does cool better. More fluid IN the radiator means cooler temps.
Pesonally, it's a no brainer. I know it's alot of $ but it's well worth it. In fact, someone is selling a Koyo right now in the parts for sale, 3rd gen section. Now, quickly, GO!
Frank
Not only do you get additional capacity, it does cool better. More fluid IN the radiator means cooler temps.
Pesonally, it's a no brainer. I know it's alot of $ but it's well worth it. In fact, someone is selling a Koyo right now in the parts for sale, 3rd gen section. Now, quickly, GO!
Frank
#5
1JZ powered
Joined: Jul 2001
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From: Where there's only two seasons, hot and wet! I love Okinawa
Nothing wrong with the stock radiator except for the plastic end tanks. I saw no temp difference except for the aluminum radiator cooled down faster, but it may have been attributed to the aftermarket hood I put in at the same time.
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#9
Just because you upgrade to an all-Al radiator doesn't mean it won't fail. My first post-stock replacement, a Mazdacomp, failed in far less time than the stock radiator. My PWR that I got afterwards is fine so far. We'll see.
Personally, if its a new stock radiator as you say, I wouldn't be in such a huge hurry to upgrade it. If you're having cooling problems with street driving and the stock radiator, then you have other issues.
That said, I would never buy ANOTHER stock radiator...spend the extra money when you do get a new one on a better product. But, like I said...no big hurry.
jds
Personally, if its a new stock radiator as you say, I wouldn't be in such a huge hurry to upgrade it. If you're having cooling problems with street driving and the stock radiator, then you have other issues.
That said, I would never buy ANOTHER stock radiator...spend the extra money when you do get a new one on a better product. But, like I said...no big hurry.
jds
#10
Gerneral consensus says to stick with the stock radiator if you are purely street driven. You aren't going to cool anymore than what your thermostat allows you to. Alum rad. will of course hold temps from getting to high better than a stock one but if the stock one is new and you don't have any heating problems, spend the money else where. Keep track of mileage and when it's time then buy the alum radiator. I'am in your situation right now. I have a 2k mile new radiator in the car, just adding up the mileage until I think it's time for a Koyo/Fluidyne.
#11
Your temperatures won't change a lot with an aftermarket radiator. An aftermarket radiator has more capacity, so your engine will take longer to heat up, and will cool more quickly. You may see a couple of degrees difference on the freeway, but nothing significant.
Keep the stock radiator, only because it's new.
Get a temp gauge if you still have the stock one.
Do the fan mod. Here's a link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fan_mod.html
Keep the stock radiator, only because it's new.
Get a temp gauge if you still have the stock one.
Do the fan mod. Here's a link:
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/fan_mod.html
#12
First cooling system upgrade should be an aftermarket temp gauge. Since the radiator is new, your money would be better spent on other reliability upgrades such as the temp and boost gauge, new thermostat if not replaced recently, new radiator and coolant hoses, fuel filter, metal AST, etc. Make sure everything on the car is running perfect before going for more power.
Jack
Jack
#13
Originally posted by bureau_c
Just because you upgrade to an all-Al radiator doesn't mean it won't fail. My first post-stock replacement, a Mazdacomp, failed in far less time than the stock radiator. My PWR that I got afterwards is fine so far. We'll see.
Personally, if its a new stock radiator as you say, I wouldn't be in such a huge hurry to upgrade it. If you're having cooling problems with street driving and the stock radiator, then you have other issues.
That said, I would never buy ANOTHER stock radiator...spend the extra money when you do get a new one on a better product. But, like I said...no big hurry.
jds
Just because you upgrade to an all-Al radiator doesn't mean it won't fail. My first post-stock replacement, a Mazdacomp, failed in far less time than the stock radiator. My PWR that I got afterwards is fine so far. We'll see.
Personally, if its a new stock radiator as you say, I wouldn't be in such a huge hurry to upgrade it. If you're having cooling problems with street driving and the stock radiator, then you have other issues.
That said, I would never buy ANOTHER stock radiator...spend the extra money when you do get a new one on a better product. But, like I said...no big hurry.
jds
Can someone verify this?
#15
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Golf Cart Hooligan
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From: Philadelphia, PA
So far i have had no cooling problems. But since i live in South Florida i have had the fans wired to alaways run when the car is on. I don not do any trak events (yet) and i have an aluminium AST.
#16
If you have a stock radiator, I wouldn't imagine them blowing apart all of a sudden. It's typically a small stress fracture that turns into a weeping leak, then finally blows open.
Just tune your nose to smell antifreeze - it's quite pungent, and even a tiny leak you can typically smell walking by the car. If you smell antifreeze, FIX IT NOW, don't wait.
I would definitely spend the money first on a good coolant temp gauge and do something about the AST - the AST definitely will fail with no warning .
Also, ALWAYS use the stock hose clamps on a plastic radiator. The spring clamps keep constant pressure on the hose with expansion and contraction, and are never too tight. Worm-drive type clamps can easily be overtightened, and when the plastic warms up and expands there's no where to go - stress fracture.
Dale
Just tune your nose to smell antifreeze - it's quite pungent, and even a tiny leak you can typically smell walking by the car. If you smell antifreeze, FIX IT NOW, don't wait.
I would definitely spend the money first on a good coolant temp gauge and do something about the AST - the AST definitely will fail with no warning .
Also, ALWAYS use the stock hose clamps on a plastic radiator. The spring clamps keep constant pressure on the hose with expansion and contraction, and are never too tight. Worm-drive type clamps can easily be overtightened, and when the plastic warms up and expands there's no where to go - stress fracture.
Dale
#17
when i had my stock radiator and ast my stock temp guage would show ~ 1/3 past the "c" mark and creep to almost halfway after a full throttle run. after installing a koyo and pettit ast, the guage would rarely get past the "c" line which is about 85-90 according to the pfc commander. i wish i would have had the pfc or an accurate temp guage to show exact before and after temps, i think the difference would have been substantial. i say get the radiator and ast first.
#20
my stock radiator cost me an engine when it burst on the freeway and I dind't know until it hit "H" which should be a buy engine light.................
classic batman
which engine was that? #3? ha
anyway, PWR is my recommendation....pricey, but very nice piece and install was cake....the stock radiator is an incredible POS
classic batman
which engine was that? #3? ha
anyway, PWR is my recommendation....pricey, but very nice piece and install was cake....the stock radiator is an incredible POS
#22
"sometimes" is one too many times in an FD, where any overheating is likely to cost you $5k
there are so many crap stock parts on these cars it's really amazing....I guess that's the price you pay to go jap
every time I look at a 911 I'm amazed at the build quality
there are so many crap stock parts on these cars it's really amazing....I guess that's the price you pay to go jap
every time I look at a 911 I'm amazed at the build quality
#23
Originally posted by ZeroBanger
I didn't even read the other responses, but anyone that thinks a KOYO or FLUIDINE will lower your water temps is fooling themselves.
it will not break like the stock one Sometimes does.
I didn't even read the other responses, but anyone that thinks a KOYO or FLUIDINE will lower your water temps is fooling themselves.
it will not break like the stock one Sometimes does.
#24
Originally posted by GP1200R
"sometimes" is one too many times in an FD, where any overheating is likely to cost you $5k
there are so many crap stock parts on these cars it's really amazing....I guess that's the price you pay to go jap
every time I look at a 911 I'm amazed at the build quality
"sometimes" is one too many times in an FD, where any overheating is likely to cost you $5k
there are so many crap stock parts on these cars it's really amazing....I guess that's the price you pay to go jap
every time I look at a 911 I'm amazed at the build quality