Anyone have wiring instructions for installing the AEM UEGO gauge. I've got the boss welded to the downpipe with bosch the O2 sensor inplace. I'm running the gauge through a custom made DIN Panel. Any instructions on how to get the wiring through the firewall would help greatly. Also, any links/info about tips for good electrical wiring habits etc would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

I'm doing the same thing this weekend, I just assumed that the wires could be routed by the rubber seal over the trans tunnel where the shift lever comes thru? Also, where are you tapping in for your hot lead? Doesn't the O2 sensor draw quite a bit of amperage?

 

First, I welded the bung to the pipe just before the stock cat. That gave me the recommended 36" from the exhaust manifold. I actually had to peel off the heatshield from the Cat to do that.

I routed the wires through a hole that I drilled into the driver side transmission tunnel panel, just under the small plastic kick panel that is attached to the end of the transmission tunnel cover (in front of the seat). I placed a rubber groomet in the hole and filled it with silicon sealer.

I wired the POS+ to a switched POS female terminal that is unjused in the fuse panel, just above the foot rest, just above the black fuse covers. Simply plugged a male connector into that terminal with a 10 Amp inline fuse. Wired the black- to a chassis ground nearby.

For current draw, the supply current is 1.3 amps and the heater current is 1.2 amps.

Please let me know how your AF readings come out. I still somewhat doubt mine as the AF reads are quite rich in the part throttle range but, suddenly jump lean (12.6)in the WOT (10 psi) range. I had to nearly max out my PFC to get me down to 11.5 WOT at 10 psi boost. I had found a couple of posts in the search where people felt that this AEM gauge read too lean at WOT.

 

Thanks! I've already got the grommets too.
I've got the Innovative Gauge, I don't know if it will correspond to your readings, but I'll let you know. Also, what mods do you have? I've got DP,CatBack, Hi-flow Cat, m2 intake, m2 smic, PFC with basemod map, and boost @11psi.
Also, on my userdata sheet for the wideband there is a calibration procedure to be done before installation, did yours have this requirement?

 

I got DP, stock cat and 3" straight pipe exhaust. M2 intake, M2 SMIC Med, PFC and boost to 11.3. The AEM does not have a calibration requirement, supposedly it is done automatically with a built in resistor.

I drove/tuned the car today and had to go all the way to the max fuel injector map settings (1.496) at high RPMs and inj map lines 16-17 to get my WOT air-fuel ratios down to 11.2 near redline. At part throttle/boost I am running rich. I need to figure out what causes this fuel requirement as it probably was the cause of my recently blown engine. I changed the fuel filter, got a Walbro pump on order and need to see if I can run some aggressive cleaner though the injectors. I am worried that all that fuel I am dumping in might run one rotor super rich while the other may be lean, giving me the 11.2 AF average as measured by the O2 sensor just before the cat. Yet, the car runs beautiful, no rich stumble, just a nice strong boost all the way.

Wonder what would be a good way to tell which (if any) rotors run rich or lean?

 

You may want to post something in the pfc forum, I'd be afraid of toasting another motor. Did you get your injectors cleaned after the rebuild? Hopefully have my wideband in this weekend and I'll let you know - now you've got me worried....

 

I got the boss welded to the DP next to the cat and have got the DP back on the car. I started it up and saw a little smoke coming from under the hood. I'm going to check to make sure it's just sealents/oils being burned and nothing bad, and I'll get back to you guys. Not sure how I'm going to run the wires yet, but I'll definately let everyone know. Take care.

 

have you tried going to a dyno? You should take it to a dyno to see how far off your readings are from reality. I have a mod afterwards which will require me to dyno the car, I'll let you know how accurate it is. It's supposed to be +-.1 but not sure.

 

Here's some pics of my gauge install.

If you like the DIN Panel, contact sonix7 (carbonfiberinnovation.com), he made these for me. If you want the placeholders, let him know because they dont come with them unless requested.







Words of Advise (if installing yourself):

Unless you have a particular reason for the Bocsh O2 sensor to be on the downpipe, don't put it there. Put it on the midpipe/hi-flow cat pipe. You will save many hours of hard work and you wont have to worry about stripping screws on the turbo-manifold mounting point for the downpipe. You have to remove the whole thing and get the boss/bung welded to it. If you do it on the midpipe/hi-flow, you will save a whole lot of time and effort.

Make sure you mark your boss/bung weld point with the pipe STILL bolted on. You can mess up and weld it at an angle that puts the O2 sensor close to heatsheilds/piping.

Also, leave some room for movement as the motor rocks right and left under throttling.

 

Nice install.

Regarding the bung location, the AEM recommedation is to keep it, at least, 36 inches from the turbo manifold, unless you wan to greatly reduce the life span of the O2 sensor. I put mine into the midpipe on two separate installations.

Have you had a chance to try it yet? Any observations on the AFR at WOT, above 5000 RPM? Mine suddenly jumped lean up there and I needed to compensate with fuel through the PFC by maxing out the fuel injector map in rows 16 and 17, just to get me a read of 11.2 AFR.

I'm still suspicious of the AEM accuracy at the lean end of the scale.

 

Definately mount the boss/bung on the midpipe. I barely made the min 36inch requirement by mouting on DP.

I've had my car street tuned initially and it was lean as hell (O2 sensor tuner was using was supposidly bad). I took it to the dyno and the dyno-operator saw really lean levels (~14 AFR) at like 3k rpm. So he richened it up (killing my tune) to make it safe on the dyno. So right now I'm running really rich at WOT. The gauge drops all the way to the left (rich) and i get around 11 AFR. I'll double check tomorrow what AFR I'm running at 5k+ rpm.