Well I installed Accel 8mm plug wires today , didn't run into any snags but come on what the hell was mazda thinking.
I did some reading on the forums so I knew what to expect and it went smoothly.

I can't believe that Mazda could honestly think that the location of the coils was a good one. its absoulutly retarded that you have to take the throttle body off aswell as the oil fill tube to get to the plug wires.
but then again these are the same guys who designed a sub par cooling system ,put crappy bearings in the 5spd trannies, added a heat soak (pre-cat) right off the turbos and didn't even include a stock boost gauge.
BTW installed boost gauge today too.
anyway don't get me wrong I love the car and don't mind working on it just thought I'd vent alittle as I wash the blood off my bruised and battered knuckles.

oh yeah car runs Great!
thanks for listening.

 

I have never really thought the position as crappy seeing how I have had my manifold off at least 50 times. In fact I can take the manifold off in just a min or two so that isnt so bad.


Now wait until you change the fuel filter...

 

Considering the plug wires aren't supposed to be something you change every other weekend, and they wanted the plug wire length to be as short as possible for best power delivery, it makes sense. Hell, the wires are at least 1/2 to 1/3 as long as the FC wires.

It's a bit of work, but install quality plug wires and forget it for another 80-100,000 miles.

Dale

 

I guess you haven't heard horror stories of other cars?

... 5. Any E-type Jaguar. To get to the clutch, you have to take the
tranny out. To do that, you have to take the engine out. The engine and
transmission come out the _BOTTOM_ of the car as a unit. So you have to put
it 'way up on jackstands, take the bonnet off (a 3-man job), find a tall
motor hoist, etc., etc. etc. Builds muscle.

... 4. A 944 Porsche. Just to prove they can out-do the Brits, the Germans
built this one so that to get the clutch out, you start by pulling the rear
suspension, then the transmission/differential, then the torque tube. All
this comes out, you guessed it, the _BOTTOM_ of the car, so you you have to
put it 'way up on jackstands, etc. At least you only have to _open_ the
bonnet, not take it off. Builds both muscle and character.

... 3. The E-jag again. To change the rear brake pads, you have to either
pull the rear suspension/differential or cut a hole in the floor. Builds
vocabulary, too.

... 2. The 944 again. To change the rubber belt that drives the cam, and
whose failure means major engine implosion, and whose life is rated at
something like 60,000 miles, you have to disassemble the front half of the
engine compartment. Budget $1,000 or more to change this $40 part....
Increases resolve to become fifnacially independent.

Taken from: http://www.sunhelp.org/pipermail/res...ay/068298.html

 

Mahjik isnt kidding about the 944 either, we have an 1985.5 and while its a fun car that belt job is a nightmare.... and if it breaks consider about $400 worth of valves being bent.

~Kris

 

I remember hearing about some British car that either required the engine to be removed or a major piece of bodywork be removed to change the *battery*.

BTW, try working on a 300zx twin turbo sometime. I helped a buddy install a boost controller - that was damn near impossible. That engine is STUFFED into the engine compartment. There is literally 1-2 inches of space between the engine and the frame of the car. Not to mention the recommended method to get to/change the turbos is, no kidding, pull the engine. You can do it with the engine in the car, but it will take far longer.

Dale

 

yeah but I'm talking about plug wires not pulling a tranny.

 

Just wait til you have to hunt down your first vacuum leak or fuel leak... or attempt to tackle a vacuum hose job.

I must say I spend more time marveling at the amazing engineering of the FD than I do deriding the negative aspects. It's not perfect, but is a testament to the art of engineering.

 

It's love / hate!

 

man, you got that right .
love the car hate the quirks, its like a beautiful woman with alot of baggage

 

Ok, but have you done this on other cars which are sports cars (not accords or anything):

http://www.team3s.com/~egross/3S/Maint/All/Plugs/

 

I have done 3000GT's and those really are stupid.

The short length argument for more power is quickly offset to me by the extreme temps the coils already reach from normal operation. Then add in the oven it sits in and the resistance of those short wires goes up some what. As well as the eficency of the coils. I thoink that is where he is going with his rant on mazda engineers. And I agree,,... They need to be shot over a # of things they did on this car... Like the use of PLASTIC COOLING SYSTEM PARTS. Brilliant work fellas

Hey Phantom- What crimpers did you use for the end terminals? I had a bitch of a time with the standard automotive crimpers. They did a **** poor job of crushing the terminal properly. I ended up getting Accel's tool. Worked a "little" better. not much though.

 

OK you you got me on the 3000GT plug change.

They were a pre made set, no crimping needed, excellent fit too