About to throw the fd away
10-17-07, 12:32 PM
#177
As we talked before, I would go ahead and check the operation of the double throttle. As I mentioned before, I noticed some violent hesitation on my car during cold running after removing it. If yours is not working properly, that could be an issue:
If that checks out, its time to look at your ignition components.
Double Throttle Control
* This keeps a second set of Secondary throttle plates in the throttle body closed. If the Double Throttle control is not working properly, (i.e. secondary always closed) then maximum boost will be restricted to ~5 psi.
* This keeps a second set of Secondary throttle plates in the throttle body closed. If the Double Throttle control is not working properly, (i.e. secondary always closed) then maximum boost will be restricted to ~5 psi.
10-17-07, 01:43 PM
#178
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Okay, as for the DTC, I did pull the hose off the DTC actuator right after I cold started it. The rod on the actuator pushed in quickly. I plugged the vac line. I never drove it like this. It didn't seem to change the rev...are you suggesting that I plug the hose going to the actuator and try driving it? Would I need to plug the nipple on the actuator itself? Also, in the line that goes from the manifold to the DTC actuator...is there supposed to be a check valve in that line?
10-17-07, 02:56 PM
#179
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UGHH...still having serious issues here. Since replaced the map, it hasn't smoked anymore. However, it is so doggy and bucks like a son-of-a-gun on take off. I did go to about 5 psi of boost today, it is was jerking the whole time in boost. Idle is smooth, but even free-revving the car is rough....I want to determine if the double throttle has anything to do with it....
10-17-07, 11:09 PM
#185
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Rich, that is something that has been in the back of my mind even today...It is worth a shot really....I mean, the map showed good and was bad....
Trev
Trev
10-21-07, 03:55 PM
#186
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Just drove the car a distance
Well, not much of one, but about 10 miles. I re-adjusted the TPS which I found to be off. I then re-adjusted air bleed and idle screws. I have it idling at about 900-1000. Fully warmed vacuum was 18-20, so that was good. temps reached a max of 210F. Temps here are about 55. SO, it was the best that the car has ran since I got the new motor in 6 months ago. However, it is still bucking and very doggy under lower RPM acceleration (especially on take off....very bad.) On take off, in order to avoid major bucking I really need to rev it and ride the clutch out a little to make it smoother. Boost is still pretty weak. I have taken it to about 5-6 PSI, but nothing at WOT yet. I am trying to figure out why in the world it is still bucking/jerking under accel and especially take off and also under boost. Idle is smooth and no smoke. again, compression is 105 on all faces/both rotors. I have been entertaining the idle that there are some clutch issues at hand, but I am having a hard time pinpointing those. I do feel a ray of hope, but I just want this car to be a light, smooth accelerating FD.
Trev
Trev
10-21-07, 05:57 PM
#187
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Well, not much of one, but about 10 miles. I re-adjusted the TPS which I found to be off. I then re-adjusted air bleed and idle screws. I have it idling at about 900-1000. Fully warmed vacuum was 18-20, so that was good. temps reached a max of 210F. Temps here are about 55. SO, it was the best that the car has ran since I got the new motor in 6 months ago. However, it is still bucking and very doggy under lower RPM acceleration (especially on take off....very bad.) On take off, in order to avoid major bucking I really need to rev it and ride the clutch out a little to make it smoother. Boost is still pretty weak. I have taken it to about 5-6 PSI, but nothing at WOT yet. I am trying to figure out why in the world it is still bucking/jerking under accel and especially take off and also under boost. Idle is smooth and no smoke. again, compression is 105 on all faces/both rotors. I have been entertaining the idle that there are some clutch issues at hand, but I am having a hard time pinpointing those. I do feel a ray of hope, but I just want this car to be a light, smooth accelerating FD.
Trev
Trev
Sorry i may sound like a total newb but
what exactly is "riding the clutch"
10-21-07, 06:43 PM
#188
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Basically instead of letting the clutch out completely and taking off, you are letting it out partially to begin going while really giving it some gas, eventually releasing it out once you have some rpms built up to ensure a smooth take off (only a smooth take off in my case...if your car is running normal, don't ride the clutch) I plan on fixing this so I don't have to ride it and wear it out.
10-21-07, 09:22 PM
#189
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Basically instead of letting the clutch out completely and taking off, you are letting it out partially to begin going while really giving it some gas, eventually releasing it out once you have some rpms built up to ensure a smooth take off (only a smooth take off in my case...if your car is running normal, don't ride the clutch) I plan on fixing this so I don't have to ride it and wear it out.
i mean if your going to not ride the clutch at all then your going to get "jerkkyness" ?
10-21-07, 10:14 PM
#192
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fuel pump hasn't been tampered with. Injectors are good. Just had the cleaned and tested when I did the motor about 40 miles ago. I am not getting any check engine lights either, but I know my knock sensor has been rewired and the car almost feels like limp mode. I may try and swap out a different one.
10-22-07, 09:53 PM
#193
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Well, the car definately runs better at operating temp then not. However, it is still lacking power and doggy. I just borrowed a friends TPS and his knock sensor. I will swap out the TPS and try that first. Then I will go with the KS.
Trev
Trev
10-23-07, 10:12 AM
#194
After a rebuild my FD would occasionally buck, nothing consistently. Then I blew it up. Turns out that using my old wiring harness was a bad idea and a secondary injector wasnt getting signal. Possibly you have a primary injector issue. What is the condition of your harness?
10-23-07, 10:26 AM
#195
Place your ad here...
Just throwing out some ideas here: Have you "visually" checked that all 4 injectors are firing the correct amount? FSM has specs on how to do this. Have you "visually" checked that all 4 spark plugs are firing correctly? Often, wiring or lines get messed up, and an actual inspection of the parts in operation is the only way to know for sure.
Off topic, the thread title made me think of that song by Cake:
"He's going the distance..... he's going for speed....."
-Rob
Off topic, the thread title made me think of that song by Cake:
"He's going the distance..... he's going for speed....."
-Rob
10-23-07, 05:01 PM
#196
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After a rebuild my FD would occasionally buck, nothing consistently. Then I blew it up. Turns out that using my old wiring harness was a bad idea and a secondary injector wasnt getting signal. Possibly you have a primary injector issue. What is the condition of your harness?
Trev
10-23-07, 09:19 PM
#199
I mentioned that in the other thread, because with that age and all the work done around that area I can't imagine that it IS working properly.
Mine had 60k when my car started acting funky. The harness solved it.
Dave
Mine had 60k when my car started acting funky. The harness solved it.
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 10-23-07 at 09:32 PM.
10-23-07, 10:59 PM
#200
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Jim, I know what you are saying about the AP, but I thought that there were several people running without them connected on a stock ECU. Not to mention, my car still ran like this on the PFC.