About to throw the fd away
09-06-07, 04:43 PM
#126
I've had similar problems, do a search for my name and read some of the threads i created. Usually nobody was able to help me and I found out some of the weirdest things about FDs. Check the threads and see if they are of any help.
Check the fluid for the clutch and bleed it. When the engine was installed hopefully everything was lined up correctly.
As far as bucking and stuff goes: Only 3 things that make the car work, air, spark, and fuel. Make sure you have all new o-rings, new insulators, and new diffusers when installing your injectors. Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Also there is a small one attached to the primary rail. Check that one as well, when it goes bad, it can cause fuel leaks and lots of problems. I can't remember exactly what its called at the moment.
Install new spark plugs, regardless if the ones you put it were fresh.
Check the MAP sensor.
I sense you may have some vacuum leaks. These can be at the block off plates or at the injectors if they are not seated properly.
Also I'd suggest ditching the stock ECU, you will only have problems with it, with the amount of modifications you have.
I've never liked the simplified turbo system and prefer the all out non-sequential set up. You will save yourself a huge headache if you switch to this, but it will require a PFC.
Make sure all your bolts are tight. Sounds silly but you can have a leak from loose bolts and nuts.
Replace Spark plug wires as well, and check your coils.
Thats all I can think of on the top of my head.
Hope some of it helps, though I realize some of it is redundant from some of the other people's posts.
Check the fluid for the clutch and bleed it. When the engine was installed hopefully everything was lined up correctly.
As far as bucking and stuff goes: Only 3 things that make the car work, air, spark, and fuel. Make sure you have all new o-rings, new insulators, and new diffusers when installing your injectors. Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Also there is a small one attached to the primary rail. Check that one as well, when it goes bad, it can cause fuel leaks and lots of problems. I can't remember exactly what its called at the moment.
Install new spark plugs, regardless if the ones you put it were fresh.
Check the MAP sensor.
I sense you may have some vacuum leaks. These can be at the block off plates or at the injectors if they are not seated properly.
Also I'd suggest ditching the stock ECU, you will only have problems with it, with the amount of modifications you have.
I've never liked the simplified turbo system and prefer the all out non-sequential set up. You will save yourself a huge headache if you switch to this, but it will require a PFC.
Make sure all your bolts are tight. Sounds silly but you can have a leak from loose bolts and nuts.
Replace Spark plug wires as well, and check your coils.
Thats all I can think of on the top of my head.
Hope some of it helps, though I realize some of it is redundant from some of the other people's posts.
09-06-07, 07:48 PM
#127
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I've had similar problems, do a search for my name and read some of the threads i created. Usually nobody was able to help me and I found out some of the weirdest things about FDs. Check the threads and see if they are of any help.
Check the fluid for the clutch and bleed it. When the engine was installed hopefully everything was lined up correctly.
*Will do that soon.
As far as bucking and stuff goes: Only 3 things that make the car work, air, spark, and fuel. Make sure you have all new o-rings, new insulators, and new diffusers when installing your injectors. Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Also there is a small one attached to the primary rail. Check that one as well, when it goes bad, it can cause fuel leaks and lots of problems. I can't remember exactly what its called at the moment.
*FPR and FPD are good. Injectors have been cleaned with new difussers/insulators/o rings installed.
Install new spark plugs, regardless if the ones you put it were fresh.
Check the MAP sensor.
I sense you may have some vacuum leaks. These can be at the block off plates or at the injectors if they are not seated properly.
*New plugs are in, map sensor and TPS check out. Can't find vac leaks, block offs are good.
Also I'd suggest ditching the stock ECU, you will only have problems with it, with the amount of modifications you have.
*Tried the stock and PFC. Both have the car running like crap. Even with my mods, I should be able to accelerate the car smoothly on a stock ECU
I've never liked the simplified turbo system and prefer the all out non-sequential set up. You will save yourself a huge headache if you switch to this, but it will require a PFC.
Make sure all your bolts are tight. Sounds silly but you can have a leak from loose bolts and nuts.
*Bolts are good
Replace Spark plug wires as well, and check your coils.
*coils have 30k, wires are new as well.
Thats all I can think of on the top of my head.
Hope some of it helps, though I realize some of it is redundant from some of the other people's posts.
Check the fluid for the clutch and bleed it. When the engine was installed hopefully everything was lined up correctly.
*Will do that soon.
As far as bucking and stuff goes: Only 3 things that make the car work, air, spark, and fuel. Make sure you have all new o-rings, new insulators, and new diffusers when installing your injectors. Did you check the Fuel Pressure Regulator? Also there is a small one attached to the primary rail. Check that one as well, when it goes bad, it can cause fuel leaks and lots of problems. I can't remember exactly what its called at the moment.
*FPR and FPD are good. Injectors have been cleaned with new difussers/insulators/o rings installed.
Install new spark plugs, regardless if the ones you put it were fresh.
Check the MAP sensor.
I sense you may have some vacuum leaks. These can be at the block off plates or at the injectors if they are not seated properly.
*New plugs are in, map sensor and TPS check out. Can't find vac leaks, block offs are good.
Also I'd suggest ditching the stock ECU, you will only have problems with it, with the amount of modifications you have.
*Tried the stock and PFC. Both have the car running like crap. Even with my mods, I should be able to accelerate the car smoothly on a stock ECU
I've never liked the simplified turbo system and prefer the all out non-sequential set up. You will save yourself a huge headache if you switch to this, but it will require a PFC.
Make sure all your bolts are tight. Sounds silly but you can have a leak from loose bolts and nuts.
*Bolts are good
Replace Spark plug wires as well, and check your coils.
*coils have 30k, wires are new as well.
Thats all I can think of on the top of my head.
Hope some of it helps, though I realize some of it is redundant from some of the other people's posts.
09-07-07, 09:58 AM
#128
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LOL. Okay, here is a development. My clutch has been sticking! I will depress it, and I barely remove my foot and the car starts to drive. With the clutch still depressed, the tick won't cmoe out of gear...it's stuck! I can't let out on the clutch and push back in to try and put the stick in Neutral because the car will start to drive! I have to shut the car off. After the car was off, I removed my foot from the clutch and it stayed to the floor. I had to pull it back up and then it pushed in and out like normal. This doesn't happen all the time, but I have noticed it a few times...I don't believe I have air in the system...have anything to do with the clutch switch Dale?
You're just have a ball with this car
Make sure the spring hasn't become disconnected on the clutch assembly.
This has nothing to do with the clutch switch. The clutch switch is the one that's activated when the clutch is released. If the white retracted pin springs out about an inch it should be fine. If it comes out slow or less than 3/4s to 1/2 an inch you have a problem with that.
09-07-07, 11:04 AM
#129
What's your point ?
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the 93 ecu doesn't throw many CELs until you check for codes.
I meant get another complete manifold (preferred low mileage manifold with all new sensors tps etc....) hook it up with all the solenoids etc....so basically take the car back to stock except for the bolt ons.
When the cars in limp mode you can't boost at all and the timing is retarded so far you have very little power throughout the entire rev range.
If you want to experience limp mode disconnect the knock sensor jk.....
I don't think you're having trouble with your pump or your ecu but I do think you have way to many things blocked off without first getting this baby up and running. Could be any # of things wrong but you won't know until you start from scratch to see how the idle etc... is with everything hooked up and then check for codes.
I meant get another complete manifold (preferred low mileage manifold with all new sensors tps etc....) hook it up with all the solenoids etc....so basically take the car back to stock except for the bolt ons.
When the cars in limp mode you can't boost at all and the timing is retarded so far you have very little power throughout the entire rev range.
If you want to experience limp mode disconnect the knock sensor jk.....
I don't think you're having trouble with your pump or your ecu but I do think you have way to many things blocked off without first getting this baby up and running. Could be any # of things wrong but you won't know until you start from scratch to see how the idle etc... is with everything hooked up and then check for codes.
09-07-07, 11:13 AM
#130
What's your point ?
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09-07-07, 11:39 AM
#132
What's your point ?
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LOL ....thanks Dave I should have read through the whole thread before even posting ! ! ! I just kind of asnwered as I was reading.....Damn newbies
09-07-07, 03:41 PM
#135
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I had them cleaned once, and I sent them in again, but didn't have them cleaned the second time. I just had them throw on new o rings because I was confident that they didn't need cleaned again. So, I am going to check the connectors on the primaries and make sure that I didn't switch the connectors around. Since the rotors are firing at 180 deg opposites, I could see that if the injectors were firing in the wrong order it would cause issues under any load.
09-07-07, 08:44 PM
#138
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New Developments
OKAY! We all know that the new primary insulators were not the issue and when I installed them and fired it back up and drove it, it seemed to be REALLY bucking bad. Well, I found that I forgot to connect a vac line....so I drove it tonight. MUCH less bucking, yet still some hesitation, but much smoother...still not right yet. SO...I stopped the car and when I went to restart it...nothing....showed 11 volts...wouldn't crank....I let out on and clutch and put it back in again...still nothing....tried it a third time and VROOM it started....Now, also, for the first time tonight, while throwing it into N coasting, the RPMS were working there way up to about 2000 and staying there! I had to tap the gas and put in the clutch to get it to come back down! DALE CLARK mentioned a clutch switch being possibly bad. Keep in mind sometimes my clutch is spongy and catching WAY to early...like before I can let out on the clutch even a half inch! So...with these new problems...I am wondering if I am onto something.
BTW, fuel pressure was NOT dropping under acceleration. I was doing light to moderate accel to 4k (no boost) and it was going to about 40 before I was letting up.
Trev
BTW, fuel pressure was NOT dropping under acceleration. I was doing light to moderate accel to 4k (no boost) and it was going to about 40 before I was letting up.
Trev
09-07-07, 09:38 PM
#139
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Okay, checked the clutch switch the white gizmo that pluges in and out is working properly. There was too much play in the clutch, so I did adjust that. I drove it again. Still much less bucking. Take off was a little smoother this time as well. Still seems pretty doggy and bogged down when accelerating between 1000-2500 rpms....
Trev
Trev
09-08-07, 01:37 PM
#142
I think I have a spare clutch switch laying around. You can have it for the price of shipping if you think it's worth the effort.
If the clutch is engaging in different points of the pedal travel you have a clutch problem, not the switch. It could be a bent/cracked fork, bad hydraulics, all the usual suspects.
Dave
If the clutch is engaging in different points of the pedal travel you have a clutch problem, not the switch. It could be a bent/cracked fork, bad hydraulics, all the usual suspects.
Dave
09-09-07, 10:31 AM
#143
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There was some excessive free play that I corrected last night. Yes, it is catching at different times. Some times it is normal, and others it is catching 1/2" off the ground...but could an improperly functioning clutch cause the bogging and hesitation under light acceleration? It doesn't seem to be a problem above 3000 rpms...
09-09-07, 03:09 PM
#145
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There is a pressure valve solenoid that is the last solenoid on the back of the rats nest closest to the firewall. It has 2 vac. lines going to it with one leading to the FPR. Anyways, I have an RX7 buddy suggest to me to leave the solenoid connected at the connector, but to bypass the solenoid's vacuum ports. I can't remember his purpose for suggesting this, but I did do it (pre installing the new insulators) Anyways, I bring this up because I checked the engine codes today and I am getting a code 25 which is "SOLENOID VALVE: PRESSURE REGULATOR CONTROL" I thought my buddy told me the only thing it is used for is for getting the car to start on a HOT start, but is there any reason I should bypass this solenoid and keep it bypassed, or put it back to normal?
09-09-07, 09:29 PM
#146
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I firmly believe this whole issue is related to the clutch in some way. Car idled really bad tonight and was boggy under acceleration again. The clutch is still really spongy too. car was wanting to idle around 1500 tonight too. If I let out on the clutch and used NO gas, it would drive itself along and really be cutting in and out and backfiring...without any gas being pressed. I have noticed that the first time I start the car on cold...it revs to about 1500-2000, then falls down and dies immediately....
09-10-07, 07:55 PM
#147
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REWARD! 250 bucks cash!!
Okay, so it sounds desperate, but 250.00 cash to the person that can come and troubleshoot my FD and get it on the road!!
09-10-07, 09:15 PM
#149
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Trev
09-10-07, 09:23 PM
#150
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Do not go non sequential.
That's the lazy mans out and the car will not be nearly as fun to drive.
If it's not the clutch then return it completely back to stock and invest the 250 in a new engine harness.
That's the lazy mans out and the car will not be nearly as fun to drive.
If it's not the clutch then return it completely back to stock and invest the 250 in a new engine harness.