This car is really starting to **** me off. I know I have been wearing everyone out with help threads too. Here is the full synopsis:

1993 cali FD manual tranny
stock ECU
DP, gutted cat, HKS carbon/ti stock intake
new fuel filter, new plugs, new wires, coil packs have 30k
reman 500 miles
Vacuum is 16-18
simplified seq.
AWS, EGR, ACV all removed airpump unplugged
Codes 30, 33, 38, 39
Tps, ISC all within spec
block off plates applied with Permatex Ultra Black
330 ohm reisistors installed in 4 solenoid plugs (the ones with the codes)



Idle seems fairly smooth. As soon as I free rev, it will stumble on decel. When I drive the car, as soon as I put any load on it (not necessarily boost either) it will bog down, hesitate, gets doggy, and if I try and go to 2nd or 3rd to early in the power band (under 2k) and put a load on it, it will buck and feel like limp mode. Also, after driving say in 2 for a little bit, and coming to a stop, I will sometimes get a crap load of smoke...smells like burnt rubber almost. Not white. More darker in color. I can't drive the freakin car because of this horrific hesitation/bucking. I have no idea where else to turn...

 

How far away is the closest rotary shop? Nebraska is rotary no-man's land, isn't it?

Edit: Silver/Red huh? I'll come and take it off your hands for five grand in the event you really want to throw it away

 

I had a problem simular to this. Ensure your actual fuel pump is in good condition, and the wiring is good. I actaually had a burned out walbro AND the wiring going to it. Edit: Also make sure the motor is grounded real well. And make sure on the map sensor vacuum hose you dont have the one way filter thingy turned the wrong way

 

Is the double throttle still hooked up and working? If this isn't hooked up you'll have some part throttle hesitation from a stand still especially with the stock ECU. Disconnecting any part of the control system can cause idle and hesitation problems with a stock ecu.

I would get a completely stock manifold and hook everything up properly along with the airpump. Once you have it back to stock go from there.

Good luck

 

Amigo, a little friendly advice before you give up on the project entirely. Buck up a little and transport your car down to Rotary Performance in Garland, TX. Ari or Chris will get your FD running smooth again in no time at all. They are THE seasoned experts at this stuff. Afterward, you can plan on getting up to speed with the nuances & such that were causing you the problems. Until then, take your car to someone who has done this thing time and time again. Best wishes to you...and your RX7. I hope it works out for you.

 

This guy just put the engine in so he's not afraid of learning about the car and in the long run that's the way to go.

 

Another good point of view Fritz. No quarrels with that view at all.

 

 

Thanks for the tips gentleman. 5K rich? Don't tempt me when I am weak I will check the fuel pump out. I was thinking about just hardwiring it to get more volts per clubrx.org. I do know how to troubleshoot, so I am not quite ready for a trip to Texas quite yet When you say a stock manifold, I assume that you are meaning a different UIM? I just added about 6 or 7 4-gauge grounds to the motor, UIM, body, DP, CB. I suppose I can just put that crap back on and change the rats next to accomodate...as for the double throttle...it is still intact....any other ideas?

Trev

 

You can also try swapping out the ECU , it could be bad !

 

i have a spare I will try.

 

Can someone tell me why after unplugging the O2 sensor and driving for a 1/2 hour I wouldn't get a CEL?

 

the 93 ecu doesn't throw many CELs until you check for codes.

I meant get another complete manifold (preferred low mileage manifold with all new sensors tps etc....) hook it up with all the solenoids etc....so basically take the car back to stock except for the bolt ons.

When the cars in limp mode you can't boost at all and the timing is retarded so far you have very little power throughout the entire rev range.

If you want to experience limp mode disconnect the knock sensor jk.....

I don't think you're having trouble with your pump or your ecu but I do think you have way to many things blocked off without first getting this baby up and running. Could be any # of things wrong but you won't know until you start from scratch to see how the idle etc... is with everything hooked up and then check for codes.

 

Will it have an ill effect to run the airpump without the cat, or does it matter? I will get this think back to stock then and see what I can figure out....Would it really be necessary to re-connect the AWS and EGR? can I just connect the ACV and airpump and give that a shot?

Trev

 

[QUOTE=Fritz Flynn;7200607]the 93 ecu doesn't throw many CELs until you check for codes.
QUOTE]

Even after I drove for a 1/2 hour with the O2 unplugged, I checked and stil lno O2 codes...

 

yup im learning a great deal from pullin my motor stick with it man

 

Junk it. Rich will take it off your hands

 

I will first try swapping out ECU's. Anyone think that the fuel pump could be the culprit?

 

Theres also a great shop in CO if you are ever over this way.

 

do you here it prime when turn your car on?

 

could you elaborate a little more...can I just jump the FP and hear it run?

Trev

 

His car starts, so he's getting fuel.

supraturbo1987, another thing to check would be the fuel pump relay.

 

[QUOTE=supraturbo1987;7200735]If you drove this car for 1/2 hour with 02 sensor unplugged I'm very surprised. With the o2 sensor unplugged and stock ECU the car will idle like **** after just a minute or two and start running crazy rich with a horrible idle etc.... If you use the diagnostic box and check for codes and you aren't seeing the o2 sensor then I would make sure the wiring is good. These cars will not run well at all without the sensor working right.

Don't need to hook up the AWS, the airpump doesn't have to be hooked to the midcat but I would plug it back in.

 

i second that.
I had a problem with an FD im trying to sell. Simlar symtoms as you and I just decided to try out that relay. I thought to myself that this relay wont fix the problem. I was surprise when we swapped out a good known relay in and the car ran fine and would rev normal in neutral.

 

so, was the relay shot then?

Fritz....so, if the wiring were bad...that doesn't make sense. Wouldn't that mean it would be idling like total crap as you said? Mine seems to idle smooth...and yes...I didn't get a CEL after a 1/2 hour of driving. So, if the wiring weren't good, then wouldn't it be running like trash because it wouldn't be giving feedback to the ECU? Are relays easy enough to tell when they are shot?