I just to wanted to confirm to see if the check engine light will light up if I remove the egr solenoid and plug the egr on a 93.

thanks

Tony S.

 

330 ohm ... get them in packs of 5 at Radio Shack for under a buck

 

Make sure they're rated for automotive application though...either 1/4 or 1/2 watt, the higher the better.

 

If the car is non cali and a 93 it doesn't need a resistor, there is no electrical input for the earlier non cali egr valves. You just need to plug off the corresponding vacuum pipe at the manifold and get a block off plate. You'll need to remove the front half of the turbo Ypipe to get to it but it can be done pretty easily. I think rotaryexteme.com sells the block off plate kits for the egr, airbypass valve.
Art

 

Sorry, read the thread heading quickly, if you remove the solenoid, you will get the check engine light, but just leave the solenoid in place and plug up the pipe at the side of the extension manifold(4 pipes that come thru by the turbos) and remove the egr valve. THEN, get the block off plate on there and voila!
Art

 

Check out this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=21848

If the resistor thing works, is there any advantage to doing the relay mod? I've got the check engine light for egr sensor, and my egr valve is fine. I'm either gonna do the relay fix or the resistor fix. Any input is appreciated.

Thanks,

Paul

 

Paul,
did you clear the ecu to see if it's just a memorized code from something else? If the car is an early 93 you can just take out the egr valve and block it off as I stated in the last post.
art

 

RTS3GEN:

My car is a 94 California, and it has the egr sensor. I had the battery disconnected for about a week, so I imagine the ecu codes were erased? I never did the 'hold the brake pedal down for 20 seconds' thing. I just had my turbos and lower intake off, so I got a good look at the egr. The valve is fine, the sensor must be bad. I think I'm gonna unplug the vac hose to disable it, but then I have to figure out how to get rid of the CEL.

Paul

 

1/2 watt ... not 1/4 watt!

 

yeah, like spyfish said, you'll need the 1/2 watt resistor at 330ohm to bypass the solenoid. But your sensor may be bad. I think the electrical manual has the resistance ratings and voltage ratings to test the sensor.

 

I have heard that the resitor does not work, but I have not tested this on my own to say that it really doesn't. This also holds true to the relay trick that I came up with. There have been people who have done the relay, but I do not know of their results. I have been using a homemade vacuum actuated switch for over a year now, and I have not had a the check engine light come on since. I may try the resitor if I am bored, or if my vacuum switch fails, but until then, I wish you all luck.

 

And this is why I think the resitor does not work.
The shop manual says "On, Off" no in between. I have taken the sensor apart before and it is simply a contact, not a graduated resistor.

 

http://www.nteinc.com/relay_web/RS1.html

This is a cool little relay.

 

If I leave my solenoid plugged in without the vacuum lines do I need to plug the nipple?

 

No, if you remove the vacuum lines altogether and just have the solenoid in place plugged in, you won't need to plug the nipples. Just be sure any lines you remove from other pipes are plugged so you don't get a vacuum leak!
Art