cozmo kraemer

X-11 and X-12 are the two grey connectors up on the driver's side fender liner. The charging and starter harness plugs into them and the power distribution center that mounts to the positive battery terminal. These were the wires that were important to me in the V8 swap. You can see the manual reference pages to get further details.

X-11 (smaller gray plug)
White/Black - Alt. low voltage warning circuit (pp. Z-24, Z-42)
Black/Red - Switched 12V+, ignition to start and clutch depressed (pg. Z-24, A-1)
Black/White - Switched 12V+ (40A B1, B2 circuit), ignition on/start (pg. Z-28)

X-12 (larger gray plug)
Blue - Oil level sensor (pg. Z-42)
Gray/Red - Oil pressure switch (pg. Z-42)
Brown/White - Coolant level sensor (pg. Z-42)

I was thinking to myself if you wanted to bypass a lot of the stock wiring you could bridge the black/red wire that comes out of the clutch protection switch (starter side) with the black/blue ignition wire at the ignition switch (ignition swith side). This would basically hardwire the ignition switch to the starter and take out the clutch safety. That would be a bandaid though but it would work if your starter, ignition switch and battery were all in good shape.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Alright, I want to thank everyone who has pitched in here. You've all been a huge help to me.

I've grown tired of tracing wires and replacing relays. Yesterday it dawned on me that I still have an engine start button that I never installed. So today, I removed the cigarette lighter from my gauge cluster cover and installed the engine start button. It fit perfect and looked nearly stock. From there, I ran a 12 gauge wire from the positive battery terminal to the button, then another 12 gauge wire directly to the starter. I tested it and it works fine.

Tomorrow I'm going to button everything back up and put plastic shielding on the wires.


Thanks again,

Brian

cozmo kraemer

So then it had to be something between your ignition switch and clutch switch. That is the only area where the wires encounter anything...when the black/red wire comes out of the clutch switch, it goes right through connector x-11 to the starter. If you cut the wire on the starter side of th at switch and wired it to the black/blue wire coming from the ignition switch I think you would have solved your problem too.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Well I cleaned and replaced my ignition switch, and I tested both clutch switches. I'm thinking the wire is broken somewhere along the line. I ended up bypassing all the wiring, but I don't doubt splicing into the black/blue wire from the ignition switch would have also done the trick, however I wanted to do my best to not cut any more stock wires incase I decide to start tracking down the issue again in the future. That, combined with the fact that I just happened to have a perfect sized engine start button laying around, is why I just ran the wire straight from the battery terminal.

I buttoned everything back up today, but now I'm having some serious gauge cluster issues. This is the third cluster I've put into the car, for the record, and the third one that's having problems. I'm going to drop the car at a cluster repair shop and just let them deal with it all, unless Rich and Ihor want the job, then it's all theirs.

Ralphy

Sorry Ive been away. Have u replaced your E.c.u. yet? maybe do a quick swap with some body if willing
are your relay bracket bolts bolted tight to the metal in your inner kick panel ?check all your ground bolts going from engine to chassie make sure intact, tight and no rust or paint between metal and ground wires

Ralphy

Sorry didnt read 3rd page before that post you sad everything buttoned up does that mean it starts now with the key?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

It doesn't start with the key persay, I decided to lay new wires for an engine start button rather than hack the factory wiring harness any further. I'm aware how ricey engine start buttons are, but I like it and if I ever want to revisit the issue, I won't have to undo any excessive splicing.

Don't mind the little issues that you'll notice (belt squeaking, tach broken, mising a/c control interts, poor cinematography), I'll handle those next.

I don't think the vid's done processing yet, it should be good to go in a few minutes though.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsYiC7squos

Ralphy

Hey I dont mind the push button was thinking of doing it my self, with a hidden power shut off toggle some where thou. I was going to see if I could get a used one off of a nissian altima or viper, or even an Srt 10 truck?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I used one of these...

http://www.ignitedperformance.com/sh...id=20&parent=6

It fit the cigarette lighter almost perfect. And I removed the light

Ralphy

Yea that looks pretty cool . What do the grey arowws do at the top?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

It locks and unlocks the bracket that the button mounts to, so you can take out the button without having to pull out the wires.

Ralphy

So can you take it with you like a key? Or do you have to undo it from behind dashboard?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

The way I have it mounted, I'd have to pull the gauge cluster out to remove it. If you found a different mounting location, though, you could probably use it like a quick release.