SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Ralphy, you're the man...

I used my PFC to test my clutch. The commander says it's working.

My security light used to beep and light up, but it doesn't anymore. I have tried pulling the fuse that controls the factory alarm. I've had issues before with the alarm disabling the starter, pulling that fuse always shut it up. No luck this time, though.

All the dash lights work, though. The lights on the instrument cluster and all still light up when I turn the key.

Could you please PM me with the wires I'd need to splice to hotwire the car?

Under the dash, everything looks fine now that I've removed that electrical tape. Any chance you'd want to take a 7 1/2 hour road trip? lol

Ralphy

this wont help you unless your ignition switch is bad it would be better to piut new ignition in if that is problem.

Im not the man untill your car starts.

Is the fuse you use to pull still good or blown now, is it pushed in all the way?

Have you found an ignition relay yet?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I've replaced the ignition switch already, no luck...
Well you've been helpful just the same.
The fuse is good and seated properly, the radio works
I've never heard of the ignition relay. Is this under the hood? Sorting through the FSM the only thing I saw were the B1 and B2 fuses which are described as "ignition switch". I'm going to test those today.

Ralphy

can you hear your relays clicking when turn key?
Did you check how much volts going to starter at the starter is it over twelve?

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Not that I've noticed and I don't have anyone to turn the key while I check the voltage.

Ralphy

I use to live in Allentown Pa 321 miles away, an hour worth of white nuckle driving through the Cascade mountains on my end, and another 4 hours highway. How far is Lancaster from Atown ?

Ralphy

I can clearly here my relays when i turn my ignition.

Ralphy

Are your battery terminals clean and tight , is battery completly charged? sorry had to ask

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I'm about 45 minutes to an hour--depending on construction-- south along 222 from Allentown
The only thing I've ever heard when turning my key are the fuel pumps priming
Battery ternimals are clean. One of the first things I'd suspected was the battery(which was brand new, BTW), it's been sent back for a warranty replacement. The replacement's supposed to be coming this week.

I've been testing with my jump box. It's fully charged and puts out 300 instant amps @ 12v. I wouldn't run the FD on a battery like that, but it should be more than enough to atleast get the starter to engage(being as that's exactly what a jumpbox is supposed to do).

By the way, I tested the B1 amd B2 fuses, and they are fine. Next I'm going to reconnect the passanger door alarm.

UMBRA ALTA

Hi guys. Sorry to butt in on this thread, but I seem to be having the exact same problem. I've owned my FD for almost a year, and it has had a recurring start problem. It usually manifested itself after stalling the engine, I would turn the key to restart, and nothing... Cycling the ignition off would usually cure it and it would crank, but not always. In that case a minute wait would usually do the trick. Now it just won't crank, period. I've shorted the leads on the starter with a screwdriver, and it cranked. I've ruled out the clutch switch, as it tests good for continuity when the clutch is depressed. As for the above mentioned three prong connector under the dash, mine is connected to a turbo timer with the appropriate plug-end. I was narrowing it down to the ignition switch or the wiring, then I read this thread. Now I see there is the securty relay under the kick panel, as well as a fuse for the security system. Could you help me with testing these things? Where is this security fuse you speak of, and how can I tell if the blue security relay is good? Thanks in advance.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I'll send you a PM about the fuse and the relay. I don't one to be the one who started spreading the details about how to quickly disable our alarms all over the internet.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

So I just got back from doing some more testing on my car. It's been way too hot to do anything the past few days, so when the weather broke I took advantage.

I didn't learn much new, but I did realize that there are relays clicking when I turn the key. I hadn't noticed before because the pumps are so loud when they prime.

I heard the ABS click, a click in the main fuse box under the hood, then a click that was coming from what sounded like down below the brake booster.

Does that help at all, Ralphy?

I'm hoping to get some help tomorrow or friday to push the car out of the storage shed and get it up on jack stands to trace the wires at the starter.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Alright, so I spent some time on this today and think I've found the problem.

We got the car in the air, and there is a constant 12v to one post, and always 0v to the spade connector and the other post. I've attached a basic diagram of the solenoid to show what I'm trying to describe. Use your imagination a little, it's drawn from the prespective of looking up at the starter from the ground.

I traced the wires a bit and found a bracket was not attached. Shortly after the bracket, a white wire with a red stripe was severed. I believe this wire goes to the spade connector. I could not find the other section of the wire, though. This is about 7 inches from where the white/red wire leaves the main bundle of wires.

Does anyone have any clues as to where this wire originates from, so I can start tracing it from its source and holefully find the other end? I don't have time to crack the FSM right now, but will check it later if noone knows.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

That'll definitely cause the car not to start. IIRC your starter/battery/alt harness wasn't in the best shape, but not so bad that it warranted replacement (they're not cheap of course). The other end of that wire goes into the harness mentioned, so start poking around. Which bracket wasn't attached? there is a bracket that goes on the backside of the starter (attaches to the long 14mm head bolt/nut combo that passes all the way through the top of the starter) but I always attach that unless for some reason it doesnt reach (and believe it or not, i've seen a few FDs with harnesses routed so wrong that it won't )

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I was poking around a little, though I didn't have much time to spend on it today. There really isn't much room to get at it from either side, though--go figure.

The bracket probably does go on the 14mm nut/bolt, when I removed the starter a few weeks ago for testing I probably didn't realize it attached there.

I just hope it didn't snap off right at a connector. it's a fairly clean break in the wire, I just hope there's some slack for me to work with, when I find it. I'm mostly relieved to find out that I won't need to pull the dash to get this resolved. Now I just hope I don't have to pull the elbow.

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

It *should* be a pretty easy fix. It won't have broken at a connector, you'll be looking for a clean break in the wire. Hopefully you can get in there and solder it, otherwise you might have to use a butt connector.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Thanks, Rich. I was under there for a little bit today and couldn't find where the wire goes. I did, however, notice that the wire is not coming off the starter, but coming from the engine bay. I searched all around in there, around the brake booster, steering linkage, the starter, etc.

I took a couple pictures and a short video to show what it looks like as best I could.

Ignore the fingers in the pics and vid, I had to hold the wire down so it was visible.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TSLCKG3RiSg

UMBRA ALTA

The wire that attaches to the small spade on the starter solenoid is black/red on my 93. You should pull back the tape at the connector end and verify that is the same on yours before you go hunting for a white/red wire.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I checked when I was taking the video, it is a black/red to the spade connector on the starter solenoid. It appears to be intact, as well. The only wire I can see that's severed is the white/red wire.

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Alright, just got back from being under there. I found that the white/red wire goes to the oil pressure sending unit. This shouldn't cause problems since I don't have an oil pressure gauge, right?

I also found a large gauge black/yellow ground wire wire that has a crack in the insulation a couple inches from the block. I'm going to put electrical tape on it.

I also traced the black/red wire that goes to the spade connector on the starter solenoid as far as I could until it meets with a very very large bundle of wires and it looked to be intact....

This is driving me nuts.

JesusGLS

iTrader: (5)

Hey man any luck with your problem. I have the same exact problem with my car that I just dont know where to start from. I havent had time to check this thing but im kind of starting to research the problem. Some members have helped me alittle dont know if you want to check my thread. Keep in touch if you figure it out or ill let you know if I find anything. Heres the link to my thread. Good Luck!!

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/help-car-wont-start-772638/

pham1187

hey man, I had just about the same problem as you and I finally fixed mine after a week of fiddling around. I basically made my own pettit starter booster which is just a relay wired up to the starter. I actually read a thread on the pettit starter booster before i had the starting problem and was going to do it myself before because i had problems trying to start the car at times. here is the link to the thread so you can look at the picture of it. the directions are actually behind the relay https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...tarter+booster

or you can go to the pettit racing website and they have a pretty good picture of the instructions too. its actually better than the one that is in the ebay link in the thread. i hope this helps you out let me know how it works out

Michael

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

I'll let you know when I come up with something, Michael. Tomorrow or Wednesday, I'm going to trace the wire from the clutch switch to the starter. According to the wiring diagram, the wire in question leaves the clutch switch, splits and sends one wire to the ECU(reporting that the switch is functional) and the other wire directly to the spade connector on the clutch. As I see it, the wire has to be broken along that path. I'm attaching the wiring schematic with what I believe to be the problem wire highlighted.

I also started it today by jumping the terminals on the starter. I just wanted to take a quick second here to send some major props to Ihor and Rich of IRP who built the motor and KG for the fuel system, because it started right up after having sat for 4 months. The motor wasn't flooded and started right up. Just one more reason I HIGHLY reccomend them to anyone looking to get their rotary rebuilt.

The red line is the one I suspect of being faulty. Can anyone tell me what the black arrows are supposed to mean? Also, can anyone tell me where connector X-11 is located on the chasis?

Uncle Hungry

iTrader: (2)

Haven't I been telling you to jump the starter for like a week? Brian,brian, Brian, what am I gonna do with you? You should verify the clutch switch is working to begin with by testing it for continuity when open and closed. Also just ground the wire for it right off the starter and see if it starts, I'm not sure but you may have to ground the ecu side also. Obviously I am assuming the interlock on the fd works by switching the ground signal like most other cars, however I could be completely clueless so take all that with a grain of salt BTW those arrows show the flow of electricity .

SLOASFK

iTrader: (5)

Well jumping the starter has no bearing on anything. I already knew the starter was good from several weeks ago when I had it tested at a shop. I just jumped it today because I wanted to let the engine warm up, and I only mentioned how easily it started so that people would know just how great IRP and KG are.
That was the very first thing I did. The clutch switch is fine.
Got pics to show me how this works? I've never heard of this before.
That's what I thought at first, but how can the electricity flow both directions (>> <<) on the same wire in a DC circuit? Isn't that what makes AC different?

Thanks for the advice, Chris.