yeah, but DaedelGT was referring to water/meth 50/50 mix and methanol has an extremely high octane rating, so a mix of the two actually does raise octane.



and i agree with the last post 500rwhp is only reliable in a couple cars, the only one under about 50k being a Supra


On the issue of whether a single turbo 7 is more reliable than a stock rx7, i think it genuinely is much more reliable if run at stock boost levels 10-12psi, but there isn't a single, single turbo owner running around at this boost level all the time, because if you invest that much money in a single turbo, you can't help but get addicted to the power and want more.

I'd be willing to bet a stock rx7 with nothing done to it running 15-16psi on a regular basis would have WAY more problems than a single with all the goodies.

THat being said, obviously no car is gonna make 500hp at 10-12 psi, so i'm not saying a 500hp single is more reliable. but i really think a car CAPABLE of 500hp can be reliable, so long as 500hp isn't seen on a regular basis

my 2 cents

 

another comment about 500rwhp or even 500bhp in a street car, its just not practical, especially with a big single that is somewhat laggy. In order to hold traction in 2nd and 3rd gear, you're gonna need at least some drag radials which aren't exactly safe on wet roads among other things. And even then you're still gonna be spinning in first, only way to fix that is with slicks, and any car needs slicks to hold traction isn't alll that "streetable" in the first place


Aim for 375rwhp and if you still don't kill yourself and aren't satisfied, go from there. Lot easier to make 375 or 400rwhp streetable and reliable than 500rwhp. A lot of **** starts breaking at around 450-500

 

lol...

 

Thanks for all the advise. I didnt know that I would start such an post.

Thanks to all of the guys who are willing to help me with base maps etc. Offcourse I know It wont be easy to achieve my goal(s). I know that a Supra is bulletproof, but 1 the insurance company wont insure a Supra to me and 2 I like this car because its different, also mainly because of the engine.

Maybe I'll have to go for 375 RWHP first, but then the question rises, which turbo to use, still the T78 or go for a smaller one like the TD07 or something like that.

What would the main reason for the engine be to break, is it heat or abnormal wear?

As said before in the Netherlands there are no RX7 tuners, also not in Germany or Belgium, first one is in the UK.

Rogier

 

detonation is what typically kills them. It can be brought on from a number of factors such as running lean, poor timing, high intake temps, ect ect. All these can lead to detonation. Basically it boils down to heat as you mentioned I was just trying to point out some of the factors that lead to extreme high heat. They rarely just wear out.

If you plan on doing this yourself I'd get a ecu with a TON of online support like a Haltech or Power FC, then get something to datalog with such as a Datalogit from the Power FC, lastly you'll need a wideband, egt gauge, and laptop (laptop is for the Dataloging)

You also need to start doing some research on tuning. There are some VERY good threads about tuning on the forum. Just do some searches for things like "timing".

As for the best turbo to use, start a thread in the single turbo section, you'll get better answers in there. Are better yet, just search that section cause the question has been asked NUMEROUS times.

STEPHEN

 

You all have missed the OBVIOUS answer to a RELIABLE 500 hp fd
A 20b 3 rotor or cutom 12a based 4 rotor (24a?) conversion.
a 13b just isnt reliable over 400hp
20b @ 500 hp = 250hp/L
13b @ 400 hp = 300+hp/L
shoud tell you which will be more reliable
(F-1 cars = 900hp/3L = 300hp/L @ 14-18k rpm)

 

Your comparing a piston engine to a rotary, they are 2 totally different designs. As long as its tuned and the rest of the car can handle the power I dont see much problem with having a 500rwhp street car....escept the problem of gas if you want to run that high boost all the time on the street....it would get very $$$

Personally I think 450rwhp on pump gas is the perfect setup. Super fast and wont destroy the entire car....especially if your not launching the **** out of it at a track.


STEPHEN

 

reliable 500rwhp?? hahaha.. Get a forced induction V8.

 

If I wanted a V8 I would have bought it, but I hate shitty American V8 engines. I like Japanese stuff and especially the 7. If you havent got anything good to say than dont, Im trying to find info about how to realise my goals and settings.

 

"another comment about 500rwhp or even 500bhp in a street car, its just not practical, especially with a big single that is somewhat laggy. In order to hold traction in 2nd and 3rd gear, you're gonna need at least some drag radials which aren't exactly safe on wet roads among other things. And even then you're still gonna be spinning in first, only way to fix that is with slicks, and any car needs slicks to hold traction isn't alll that "streetable" in the first place


Aim for 375rwhp and if you still don't kill yourself and aren't satisfied, go from there. Lot easier to make 375 or 400rwhp streetable and reliable than 500rwhp. A lot of **** starts breaking at around 450-500"



This is a good post!!!

My car is not practical in the city. I have no power under 4500 RPM then WHAM, hold on, 2nd will lite the BFG drags up and going into 3rd they let loose again. It is not very safe but it is great feeling. I am going to go with either a T-78 of a T-66 that will be a bit more streetable. I have braces all over My car and upgraded everything else to compensate for the power but these braces make allot of noise so beware of that.

 

Finally, two people with bigger singles posting an HONEST review of what it's like driving a car like that.

Thanks, the both of you.

 

This is very true. I installed a launch kit but now that I never race from a launch its pointless so I'm going to take it out. I cant stand that everytime I go over small bumps or gravel it rattles. It drives me freakn crazy. Go over some RR tracks and no matter how slow I'm going to sounds like my car is falling apart. Reminds me of my brother POS 1990 Celica. I'm embaressed for people to ride with me cause they think my car is some POS thats falling apart and I get tired of explaining it to people.

I'm going to put the stock toe links and trailing arms back in and just not worry about it anymore.

BTW - The reason I never race from a launch is like what everyone else was saying....no traction

STEPHEN

 

In other words, combustion pressures need to be 1.5x higher in a two rotor than three rotor for a given power output at a given rpm. Increased combustion pressure probably correlates with an increase in detonation tendency.

Three rotor is the obvious and correct answer to getting *reliable* high horsepower in my opinion, or you could bust a Jimlab on it.

 

The big single is not as streetable but it is very fun so dont get Me wrong. It is just what a person wants out of the car. My Apexi RX6 was like driving a civic compared to the T-72. If You want a WOW factor when You take someone for a ride. The T-72 will give them more then a WOW, it will make them **** thier pants because of the insane top end that it gives. If I have enough money I am going to keep the T-72 and get another turbo for street use. It is hard to beat the **** out of a car that I have spent so much time ond cash on but I still due or it was not really worth the effort.

I think the 3 rotor is the way to go but it is not for Me.

 

I would also agree with the 3 rotor as being much more reliable at those power levels.

 

For the cost of going single turbo 20B I could replace a 13b every year for years and years and years. There is a point that the cost of "reliability" isnt worth it.

Besides that most peoples engines dont pop for no reason. Its usually tuning, a faulty part (or **** engine build), or a bad setup. No matter if you build a 20b or 13b your still going to have those issues....and even worse since you have more injectors, more internals, ect, ect. In addition to having a harder time tuning it and not as many people for a "support web"

STEPHEN