4500 dollar budget for my FD
07-05-11 | 08:39 PM
#1
Passenger
Posts: n/a
4500 dollar budget for my FD
So i am going to have around $4500 to spend on the FD in ab out 2 and a half months.
I wanted to know what mods you guys would suggest. So far i have double headed apexi intakes and a HKS full exhaust from turbos back and the power FC.
I def want coil overs included in this because I want to be able to street drive the car and also track it every once in a while.
I was debating about a front mount VS a V-mount setup. Most people prefer a V-mount, but i think that would cause more heat buildup in the hood since there will be more stuff crowding up the engine bay.
Some have told me that the front mount will block the air going into the radiator which I was going to make a scoop for under the car to pick up air and draw it up towards the radiator.
I am def getting a radiator just dont know what brand.
Can you guys think of anything else that would be necessary as well as a power adder.
Thanks in advance,
I wanted to know what mods you guys would suggest. So far i have double headed apexi intakes and a HKS full exhaust from turbos back and the power FC.
I def want coil overs included in this because I want to be able to street drive the car and also track it every once in a while.
I was debating about a front mount VS a V-mount setup. Most people prefer a V-mount, but i think that would cause more heat buildup in the hood since there will be more stuff crowding up the engine bay.
Some have told me that the front mount will block the air going into the radiator which I was going to make a scoop for under the car to pick up air and draw it up towards the radiator.
I am def getting a radiator just dont know what brand.
Can you guys think of anything else that would be necessary as well as a power adder.
Thanks in advance,
07-05-11 | 09:24 PM
#2
If you have stock suspension then I would take all that money and put it there. Coilovers, bushings, pillowballs, upgraded sway bar mounts, toe links, trailing arms, and perhaps a set of lightweight wheels and tires, oh and BRAKES.
I highly doubt you're at a point where you need to add any more power. Suspension and brakes will serve you much better than anything else.
I highly doubt you're at a point where you need to add any more power. Suspension and brakes will serve you much better than anything else.
07-05-11 | 11:47 PM
#3
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 122
From: Twin Cities, MN
I would spend all the money on making sure it doesn't blow up. Full exhaust without any fuel mods or a ported wastegate is a good way to blow the engine in my experience.
I would do a full fuel system upgrade( injectors, pump, change fuel filter, rewire pump, top feed secondary rail, and FPR). Then do a clutch, intercooler, radiator, ast tank, hks DLI, plug wires, coolant hoses, dyno tune.
After that do the suspension pillowballs and front diff mounts
I would do a full fuel system upgrade( injectors, pump, change fuel filter, rewire pump, top feed secondary rail, and FPR). Then do a clutch, intercooler, radiator, ast tank, hks DLI, plug wires, coolant hoses, dyno tune.
After that do the suspension pillowballs and front diff mounts
07-05-11 | 11:51 PM
#4
a true v-mount splits the air between the radiator and intercooler, not make it pass through one before the other.
there are many poor examples of a v-mount so don't accept it as a rule for all.
there are many poor examples of a v-mount so don't accept it as a rule for all.
07-06-11 | 12:29 AM
#5
Spend the money on reliability stuff. It looks like you may be lacking some of that. Other than that, suspension and the regular wear items that people always seem to change last but should do first. Worry about power later. Your car already looks behind on where it should be in terms of reliability. In terms of cosmetics, paint correction could be good.
07-06-11 | 12:36 AM
#6
Passenger
Posts: n/a
I thin i am going to get a front mount and sit my intercooler like it sits factory but a little higher then build a scoop to bring the air from the bottom up. Then i was going to get a vented hood.
I dont know if the wastegates was ported or not. I will make sure I do this when I do the non sequential mod.
I though the fuel system is good for up to 350 to the wheels. I just want to run 310 to the wheels.
07-06-11 | 01:14 AM
#7
The only thing i was going to do to the suspention is get coilovers and the pillow ***** bushings to make the car sound smooth.
I thin i am going to get a front mount and sit my intercooler like it sits factory but a little higher then build a scoop to bring the air from the bottom up. Then i was going to get a vented hood.
I dont know if the wastegates was ported or not. I will make sure I do this when I do the non sequential mod.
I though the fuel system is good for up to 350 to the wheels. I just want to run 310 to the wheels.
I thin i am going to get a front mount and sit my intercooler like it sits factory but a little higher then build a scoop to bring the air from the bottom up. Then i was going to get a vented hood.
I dont know if the wastegates was ported or not. I will make sure I do this when I do the non sequential mod.
I though the fuel system is good for up to 350 to the wheels. I just want to run 310 to the wheels.
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07-06-11 | 01:26 AM
#9
^^ denso, aka supra fuel pump and add the fuel pump relay
id also say,
dual oil coolers (r1 are good)
i personally like 550/1600 injectors
love my new bushings (super pro)
steering wheel (made the car feel 100X better then the big boat steering wheel)
coilovers
the list goes on but those are just a few i cna think of off the top of my head
id also say,
dual oil coolers (r1 are good)
i personally like 550/1600 injectors
love my new bushings (super pro)
steering wheel (made the car feel 100X better then the big boat steering wheel)
coilovers
the list goes on but those are just a few i cna think of off the top of my head
07-06-11 | 01:47 AM
#10
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 7,093
Likes: 122
From: Twin Cities, MN
We can supply a PFC map for these injectors with purchase;
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=63
Best units money can buy, and I've done over 500rwhp with 550/2200 setup...
07-06-11 | 06:27 AM
#11
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Leave the stock primary size injectors or the car will run rich at idle and low speed cruise with a PFC.
We can supply a PFC map for these injectors with purchase;
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=63
Best units money can buy, and I've done over 500rwhp with 550/2200 setup...
We can supply a PFC map for these injectors with purchase;
http://www.turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=63
Best units money can buy, and I've done over 500rwhp with 550/2200 setup...
Oh yeah def oil coolers.
07-06-11 | 06:37 AM
#12
If your suspension and links/bushes are not worn and need replacing, first make the realiabilitymods. If you absolutely want to do suspension, get a set of Tein S-tech springs and run OEM shocks... Howard C tip, works like hell!
Start with getting that WG ported, and fix your fuelsetup.
550pri/1680 sec topfeeded, with a FPR and suprapump rewired. Better to run alittle rich and un-spiked boostwise, than risk lean and spikey... it most often translates to "KABOOM"
Do you know your engine internal state...? Recommend engine washdown internally, and monitoring your EGT (dual EGT, one for each rotor) with a decent instrument. You DO want to know what happens in there...
Lots of reliabilitymod-posts and threads here.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
Start with getting that WG ported, and fix your fuelsetup.
550pri/1680 sec topfeeded, with a FPR and suprapump rewired. Better to run alittle rich and un-spiked boostwise, than risk lean and spikey... it most often translates to "KABOOM"
Do you know your engine internal state...? Recommend engine washdown internally, and monitoring your EGT (dual EGT, one for each rotor) with a decent instrument. You DO want to know what happens in there...
Lots of reliabilitymod-posts and threads here.
https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/faq-3rd-gen-other-useful-links-68640/
07-06-11 | 07:02 AM
#13
Passenger
Posts: n/a
If your suspension and links/bushes are not worn and need replacing, first make the realiabilitymods. If you absolutely want to do suspension, get a set of Tein S-tech springs and run OEM shocks... Howard C tip, works like hell!
Start with getting that WG ported, and fix your fuelsetup.
550pri/1680 sec topfeeded, with a FPR and suprapump rewired. Better to run alittle rich and un-spiked boostwise, than risk lean and spikey... it most often translates to "KABOOM"
Do you know your engine internal state...? Recommend engine washdown internally, and monitoring your EGT (dual EGT, one for each rotor) with a decent instrument. You DO want to know what happens in there...
Lots of reliabilitymod-posts and threads here.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=68640
Start with getting that WG ported, and fix your fuelsetup.
550pri/1680 sec topfeeded, with a FPR and suprapump rewired. Better to run alittle rich and un-spiked boostwise, than risk lean and spikey... it most often translates to "KABOOM"
Do you know your engine internal state...? Recommend engine washdown internally, and monitoring your EGT (dual EGT, one for each rotor) with a decent instrument. You DO want to know what happens in there...
Lots of reliabilitymod-posts and threads here.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=68640
It seems that fuel has to be a main concern, but all of the fuel components dont cost more than $1000
I was told that my car was rebuilt and it has like 10-15K on the rebuild with 3mm apex seals. Now weather they were dont or not IDK. LOL
I am putting my battery in the hatch this weekend and I will then rewire my fuel pump so the only other thing I have to do back there is get a pump. Oh and I replaced the fuel filter days after i got the car 3 months ago.
07-06-11 | 07:25 AM
#14
Tein S-tech + OEM shocks is a Howard Coleman tip, dude. You get the PERFECT ride height, not some shitty rideheight. FDs are abit different than most cars, they dont need rediculously costly coilovers to get an awesome ride.
ps. Howard C + his suspensionman KNOWS what they are taking about, he is an old GT racer with a tubeframe RX3. They have done a full suspension geometry evaluation of the RX7, and it needs very little to be very very VERY fast and good suspensionvise...
ps. Howard C + his suspensionman KNOWS what they are taking about, he is an old GT racer with a tubeframe RX3. They have done a full suspension geometry evaluation of the RX7, and it needs very little to be very very VERY fast and good suspensionvise...
07-06-11 | 07:32 AM
#15
Passenger
Posts: n/a
Tein S-tech + OEM shocks is a Howard Coleman tip, dude. You get the PERFECT ride height, not some shitty rideheight. FDs are abit different than most cars, they dont need rediculously costly coilovers to get an awesome ride.
ps. Howard C + his suspensionman KNOWS what they are taking about, he is an old GT racer with a tubeframe RX3. They have done a full suspension geometry evaluation of the RX7, and it needs very little to be very very VERY fast and good suspensionvise...
ps. Howard C + his suspensionman KNOWS what they are taking about, he is an old GT racer with a tubeframe RX3. They have done a full suspension geometry evaluation of the RX7, and it needs very little to be very very VERY fast and good suspensionvise...
By the way do you guys think I can fit a 265/45 R16 in the rear without rolling the fenders?
07-06-11 | 07:34 AM
#16
07-06-11 | 08:44 AM
#18
in general, its recommended that you go for reliabilitymods first. Mazda made some compromises when designing the RX7 regarding cost and maintainability for a user. FD now adays is an enthusiast car, and mazda knows squat all about the RX-cars... So, you have to get down and dirty, or pay a mazda specialist(tuner) to do it for you if you wanna get it right.
The coolest FD, is the one with the right cosmetic touchups(according to taste), wich makes good power, and can take a proper raceday any day of the week, and still act as the daily driver as it has all the right mods that make it reliable.
The second coolest FD, is the running FD with original(or close to) looks and the mods that makes this a GREAT car.
the least cool FD, is the one that looks stunning, but is locked down in a semi-perma role as a garage-queen due to owner prioritising looks over reliability.
The coolest FD, is the one with the right cosmetic touchups(according to taste), wich makes good power, and can take a proper raceday any day of the week, and still act as the daily driver as it has all the right mods that make it reliable.
The second coolest FD, is the running FD with original(or close to) looks and the mods that makes this a GREAT car.
the least cool FD, is the one that looks stunning, but is locked down in a semi-perma role as a garage-queen due to owner prioritising looks over reliability.
07-06-11 | 09:11 AM
#19
Passenger
Posts: n/a
in general, its recommended that you go for reliabilitymods first. Mazda made some compromises when designing the RX7 regarding cost and maintainability for a user. FD now adays is an enthusiast car, and mazda knows squat all about the RX-cars... So, you have to get down and dirty, or pay a mazda specialist(tuner) to do it for you if you wanna get it right.
The coolest FD, is the one with the right cosmetic touchups(according to taste), wich makes good power, and can take a proper raceday any day of the week, and still act as the daily driver as it has all the right mods that make it reliable.
The second coolest FD, is the running FD with original(or close to) looks and the mods that makes this a GREAT car.
the least cool FD, is the one that looks stunning, but is locked down in a semi-perma role as a garage-queen due to owner prioritising looks over reliability.
The coolest FD, is the one with the right cosmetic touchups(according to taste), wich makes good power, and can take a proper raceday any day of the week, and still act as the daily driver as it has all the right mods that make it reliable.
The second coolest FD, is the running FD with original(or close to) looks and the mods that makes this a GREAT car.
the least cool FD, is the one that looks stunning, but is locked down in a semi-perma role as a garage-queen due to owner prioritising looks over reliability.
Look like ill be doing a fuel upgade, the springs, A front mount, a radiator with some nice silicone hoses, getting the wastegate ported and turbos running non sequential. I also want to get the gagues I need.
That should be enough for the reliability and a little power mods. Then i need to redo my seats, buy a new cluster cause mine sucks *** and then the feed side skirts.
07-06-11 | 09:54 AM
#21
I agree with you on this. I do beat my car a little bit, but I am always paying attention to the PFC temp. When I floor it, the temp goes to like 90 and then it comes back down as I drive it within a couple of min. My normal driving temp is 84 Celcius.
Look like ill be doing a fuel upgade, the springs, A front mount, a radiator with some nice silicone hoses, getting the wastegate ported and turbos running non sequential. I also want to get the gagues I need.
That should be enough for the reliability and a little power mods. Then i need to redo my seats, buy a new cluster cause mine sucks *** and then the feed side skirts.
Look like ill be doing a fuel upgade, the springs, A front mount, a radiator with some nice silicone hoses, getting the wastegate ported and turbos running non sequential. I also want to get the gagues I need.
That should be enough for the reliability and a little power mods. Then i need to redo my seats, buy a new cluster cause mine sucks *** and then the feed side skirts.
Aluminium AST
Dual EGT sensors(one per exhaust port, fitted to the exhaust manifold). Rear rotor allways runs alittle leaner, and its easier to map the rear alittle richer with sensors, plus i think the PFC can do it.
Water/meth injection. Cost little, and works wonders for our cars. Mazda used gasoline to cool exhaust temps = carbon buildup. Water cools 5,5 times better than gasoline, and steamwashes your engine. win win!
Fast reacting water temp sensor.
Heatshield between lower intake manifold and turboes.
New coil-set. LS1 coils is awesome and relatively cheap.
HKS twin power
07-06-11 | 10:08 AM
#22
Passenger
Posts: n/a
To that list, add
Aluminium AST
Dual EGT sensors(one per exhaust port, fitted to the exhaust manifold). Rear rotor allways runs alittle leaner, and its easier to map the rear alittle richer with sensors, plus i think the PFC can do it.
Water/meth injection. Cost little, and works wonders for our cars. Mazda used gasoline to cool exhaust temps = carbon buildup. Water cools 5,5 times better than gasoline, and steamwashes your engine. win win!
Fast reacting water temp sensor.
Heatshield between lower intake manifold and turboes.
New coil-set. LS1 coils is awesome and relatively cheap.
HKS twin power
Aluminium AST
Dual EGT sensors(one per exhaust port, fitted to the exhaust manifold). Rear rotor allways runs alittle leaner, and its easier to map the rear alittle richer with sensors, plus i think the PFC can do it.
Water/meth injection. Cost little, and works wonders for our cars. Mazda used gasoline to cool exhaust temps = carbon buildup. Water cools 5,5 times better than gasoline, and steamwashes your engine. win win!
Fast reacting water temp sensor.
Heatshield between lower intake manifold and turboes.
New coil-set. LS1 coils is awesome and relatively cheap.
HKS twin power
So do you think that tire will work on our stock rims?
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