Import Convert

I would suggest leaving your vaccum lines alone unless there is something wrong with them. If you are going single in the future it doesn't pay to go through the hassle of doing a vaccum line job IMO.

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

The XS Engineering T04S Turbo kit I have heard doesnt have much more lag than the singles, and it is about $3300 from rx7store.net, also a lot more people use this turbo kit than the BNR Stage 3, at least from what I have seen. Does the BNR Stage 3 spool up faster and make more power? It might be the better choice, but I havent heard much about the BNR Stage 3's, has anyone driven cars with both these turbos? Thanks for the tips on the datalogging and wideband, I had no idea about those, thats the main reason I posted, to find out if I am missing stuff that could potentially harm my engine. Maxcooper I hadn't seen your website before, very helpful thanks. I plan on putting dual gauges inside the dash thanks to your tips, that leaves me only needing to put a boost gauge and one other gauge on the outside and being able to measure everything. Can you get white backgrounds for those dual gauges? This isnt really a budget, its just an idea of what I am looking at so I dont go buy a single turbo kit and then find out i need 5K more etc etc...

maxcooper

The SPA gauges are now available with white backgrounds and switchable green/red illumination. The green is quite a contrast to the stock gauges, but I gave up on trying to make it all look the same for benefits of good instrumentation without having to mount gauges all over the place. My gauges go black when they get hot, too, which is something that is supposed to be improved on the new model. I think I'll probably update mine at some point to get the red illumination and more importantly, so that they are readable when they got hot (sitting in the sun makes them unreadable with my current setup ).

-Max

Trout2

iTrader: (5)

For the SPA gauges (http://www.spatechnique.com), I noticed another recent update is an option for a chrome ring around the face.

Jack

rotary

take it one step at a time

Chronos

Your list reminds me of myself about 6 months ago before I bought my FD, now I sorta laugh at it...Mine came out to 40k btw

and BTW, does ANYONE know ANYTHING about pineappleracing?? I need to get my rebuild done!!!

artguy

chronos...why dont you go to rotary reliability and racing in santa ana...7148398018 they are local...have a nice warrantee and know their *****. if you have a problem with your car here you can just tow it to santa ana...if you have a problem with pineapple you are shipping it out of state...do you plan on towing your car to oregon or wherever to get warrantee work done? I dont know about you but Id prefer to have my car worked on locally by a reputable shop.

rotary reliability is working very closely with xs engineerring nowadays as well.

nick built my motor and has beend doing this for 20 plus years.

why did your car come out to 40k?


j

Conv.WS6

definitely a good amount of money. Fortunately I lucked out and got a blown FD for 2K. Yeah I didn't stutter. 2K. LOl.... I'll still have almost 22K in it by the time I get it finished. Running low 11's for 22K in a somewhat modern car that everyone stops and asks you about isn't that bad of a deal though.

Chronos

OMG, 2k!!! I HATE YOU!!! Artguy, thanks, I'll check into it...a local rotary builder is definately a good idea

and BTW, that 40k was for EVERYTHING possible I would ever want for the FD including an HKS 6speed tranny that goes for $6k...it was a hefty list indeed, they were all good parts though, nothing unecessary

artguy

chronos...post the list...id like to see




j

redrotorR1

First of all ... good luck. That's a lot of work and there's a lot more cost than you've initially projected. You're going to find things that break or things that need to be replaced or things that don't work as good as they used to or ..... you get the picture.

Secondly, I think that post about 425RHWP at 14psi was either a typo (325, maybe) or I'm calling B.S. Sorry, post the dyno sheet and make me a believer.

Third, your drivetrain list is rather short. I'd recommend against the 6-puck clutch unless you like left leg workouts while driving your car. The ACT Street/Strip clutch should suffice. Also, where's the pressure plate? I wouldn't try and make 400RWHP on the stock pressure plate. The ACT Heavy Duty pressure plate is a good fit, but if you're that worried about smoking your clutch, go with the Extreme pressure plate instead of the Heavy Duty one. If you're trying to make a screamer of a car, why have you neglected the gears? Maybe some 4.77's or 4.33's ... whatever. You might want to consider an upgraded differential as well. Probably not necessary ... but just a thought. Eventually, everyone who starts making big horsepower will want to make more.

Fourth, why skimp on the air intake? The restrictive airbox will have a tough time pulling in big boost ... let alone 14-15psi. The pre-cat is a big restrictor and traps a lot of heat in the engine bay. I wouldn't wait that long to remove it. Boost spikes aren't the big, bad wolf that you think. Plus, with good tuning, boost spikes can be fun.

Lastly, you have zero suspension mods on this list. IMO, this is a HUGE mistake. Especially, if you plan on auto-x or drag racing. Making this kind of horsepower on stock rubber sizes is useless .... what good is it making big power when you can't put it down to the pavement? I'd recommend a good set of shocks ... possibly coilovers if you really get into auto-x ... and definitely some WIDER wheels. That is, 17x9.5's or 17x10's ... don't be stoopid and buy 18x7's or some other bigger rims that are actually narrower than your stockers.

Anyhow, hope you find my constructive criticism helpful. Happy hunting.

Shinobi-X

This is a great thread, with some rather useful info.

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the tips redrotorR1, I dont know if you missed some of my earlier posts but I said this wasnt meant to be a budget, I know there is a lot more to buy and I didnt put in suspension because I am just focussing on what I need to do to keep my engine from blowing up (hopefully) first, thanks for the tips on the pressure plate, which I had forgotten about entirely, and what size tires to use, and the coil over shocks. I might change the gears to 4.33 later in life, but that would be a ways off, 4.77 would probably a higher cruising RPM than I want, but they would be fun nonetheless, and would be good for dropping maybe .5 seconds of the 1/4 mile time. 17's are going to be my rim of choice, get some really light and good looking ones to keep my unsprung mass low and look good at the same time. I will definitely be purchasing some drag radials or something for the strip to later on.

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I don't know if it was memtioned, but if you want to keep from detonating you might consider water injection.

I'm using Aquamist. Depending on the ecu you plan on using I'd go with the new 2d kit.

Wade

iTrader: (1)

Is it the original poster who is talking about buying an FD after he moves and money won't be an object (with the job he doesn't even have yet), etc... and he's trying to compute how much each of his mod "stages" will cost... LOL...

Wade

artguy

hey ken...can i ask what that water injection setup cost you fully installed? Im thinking of going that way myself.

any updates on the traction control?

LUV94RX7

iTrader: (3)

I did a quick and dirty test for 60" times using my Vericom computer. I had crappy tires and crappy roads and improved my times by .1 to .15 seconds. I have my Nitto 275-40/17 drag radials on now and when the weather gets better I'll try again and see what happens.

I bought the 2s kit originally. Dave from KDR installed it. He also installed my fuel cell for the water in the trunk. He had to fabricate a bracket for it. He charged me 7 hours labor. I don't know what was for the water and what was for the custom bracket. The 2s kit is very complex and the 2d is easier install. Dave was not able to program the 2s kit as his dyno broke. I decided I'm not technically able to program it either. I'm switching to the 2d kit. Brad from KCSAAB is getting me the extra parts I need. He can give you a price and he knows his stuff. My guess is the 2s kit is about $935 and the 2d kit is about $750. If interested in pics give me your e-mail address and I'll send you some.

Brad is on the Aquamist web site. brad@kcsaab.com

Ken

artguy

thanks for the great info ken....its appreciated.

my email is jason.manley@sierra.com if you have time to send me pics.

j

RX-8

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE]
Stage 1 – Tune up, reliability - $400
1. $20 Oil Change, new oil filter
2. $20 Transmission, differential fluids
3. $20 Flush coolant system
4. $20 Replace fuel filter
5. $150 A pillar Gauge Pod(2) Autometer Water Temp/Boost Gauge
6. $100 Replace vacuum line/cooling hoses
7. $50 Add Second oil cooler
8. $20 Upgrade front roll bar mount

Stage 2 – Further reliability, minor power mods - $380
1. $50 Remove Air Separation Tank
2. $150 Center mount gauge pod (4)
3. $180 Autometer Air Fuel/Oil Pressure/EGT/

Stage 3 – Further reliability, more power mods - $1259
1. $350 Aftermarket Radiator
2. $50 Custom Air Intake Kit
3. $400 Custom Cat Back Exhaust
4. $459 Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller

Stage 4. Drivetrain - $905
1. $455 ACT 6-Puck Clutch
2. $450 9.5# Leightweight Aluminum Flywheel

Stage 5 – Major power mods $7336
1. $1100 Haltech
2. $1300 Apexi Front Mount Intercooler
2. $852 Bosch 1600CC Injectors, Comp Pump, SX Regulator, Fuel Rail
3. $3350 XS Engineering T04S Turbo Kit
4. $449 HKS Twin Power Ignition
5. $85 Magnecor 10MM Spark Plug Set
6. $200 Midpipe
[QUOTE]


Yikes!! I'm officially depressed!!

Chronos

Allright...you asked for it!

Engine:
"Base" Rebuild with good core $2495 w/ 5year warantee (includes cryogen parts)
Stage 3 oil passage mods $325
Ianetti racing 3 peice ceramic apex seals (increased efficiancy and performance 6-10krpm and VERY increased resistance to detonation) $1500
Labor $1000
Total: $5320


Cooling:
V-mount Intercooler with piping, racing radiator, and blow off valve $2000
Rotaryextreme 34 Row dual oil cooler kit (450% better than stock oil coolers) $1000
Total: $3000


Intake/Exhaust:
JIC 90mm full Ti exhaust $925
Custom job Rotaryextreme 90mm FULL METAL catalytic converter (as used in new BMW and Mercedes) $1000
HKS Air filter $300
Total: $2225


Turbo:
GT35/40 Garrett Hybrid producing 450rwhp, custom exhaust manifold, polished turbo, all lines & fittings, wastegate $4000
Total: $4000


Fuel Delivery:
2x Greddy 720cc side feed injectors $220
2x Nippondenso 1300cc side feed injectors $330
Nippondenso competition fuel pump $250
SX fuel pressure regulator 35-90psi w/ 6-fittings $183
A'pexi Power FC ECU/fuel controller w/ datalogging laptop hookup $1100
Total: $2083


Electronics:
A'pexi Rev/Speed meter w/ g sensor for tuning $300
HKS EVC 4 boost controller $465
Total $765


Gauges/Pods:
HKS backlit 52mm boost gauge $99
Greddy 52mm Elec. Temperature gauge (water) $109
Greddy 52mm Elec. Temperature gauge (oil) $109
Defi 52mm air/fuel guage $115
Autometer single pod $30
Border carbonfiber gauge panel $350
steering wheel column pod $99
Total: $921


Racing Seats:
x2 Bride Racing Seats -black $1760
Total: $1760


Suspension:
A'pexi N1 Coilover's $1900
Competition toe links $220
Front swaybar $120
Rear swarbar $130
M2 harness/rear strut bar $249
M2 Competition trailing arm links $190
Total: $2809


Drivetrain:
Carbonfiber Driveshaft $949
B&M short shifter $199
RE Amemiya reinforced power plant frame $350
FEED engine torque brace (with shock) $200
9.5lb lightened Al flywheel $450
KAAZ 1.5 limited slip differential $800
Total: $3447


Exterior:
RE Amemiya GT kit (white widebody FD in video) $2000
RE Amemiya facer N1 (nose) $1000
RE Amemiya carbon fiber front aero undersweep $800
RE Amemiya rear diffuser $850
RE Amemiya sleek light kit $1300
RE Amemiya Sleek air duct $400
RE Amemiya AD Mirror Type1 $500
RE Amemiya lightened rear deck lid $800
2x RE Amemiya lightened door $2000
Panspeed Racing carbon fiber vented aero hood for VMIC system $1200
Total: $9050


Brakes:
AP racing 4 caliper 2 piece 13" slotted rotors $2700
99spec rear brakes $1000
Total: $3700


Wheels/Tires:
x4 Volk Racing CE28N 10.5" $2000
x4 BF goodrich KD 18x285x35 $1000
Total: $3000

Extras:
99spec efini Al accelerator pedal $70
Total: $70


Total:
$42,150.00


Some of the info there might be inaccurate or a little above retail...but that's the jist of my old dream list.

EDIT: Ohh yeah, and I forgot...it's ~40k w/o the HKS 6 speed tranny. With it's 50k!!!

BlueDragon871

man thats a sick list hope u dont mind cuz im going to copy it a little

BlueDragon871

chronos where did u find all those parts espically for teh engine rebuild ? heres my list

TKT Base Performance Package-$1199
Apexi Autotimer-$89
Advan Racing TCII-$1310 ?
Tires-$600 ?
Boost Gauge-$60
HKS Downpipe-$199
Random Technology High Flow Cat-$215
HKS FMIC-$1276
Koyo Radiator-$359
RX-7 Store.net Extreme Fuel System-$899 (complete kit-injectors, pump etc)
Blitz SBC I-D Boost Controller-$515
Blitz Power Meter I-D V3 Rev/Speed Meter-$240
Apexi Power FC + Commander-$1250
Total-$8211
RE Amemyia Light Kit-$1479
Drft bodykit (pfrp)-$1210
C-West Light Kit $1150
Pivot Headlight Controller (Pop-Up Headlight Height Adjuster)-$90
Apexi Boost Controllers AVC-R-$399 (from Horsepower Freaks)
Blitz Type 03-$1202
Defi Link-$110
Defi Bf Boost Gauge-$220
Defi Bf EGT-$260
3rd Gen RX-7 Regular V-Mount Intercooler/Radiator Combo-$2990

Icemastr

iTrader: (2)

Took you long enough to post the list lol. As a little update my 93 RX-7 went a best of 12.6 on street tires and 11.7 on slicks with less than $2000 in mods and some spare racing slicks I had laying around. 348 RWHP @ 14.6psi. I am now getting another 3rd gen RX-7 that I am going to put a GT35/40 turbo and do all the work custom by myself and should be able to stay under 5,000$

spekdah

geeeezzzzz! why dont you just write sumthing up in this forum bro.

spekdah

U want 400hp?

ditch the rotary and drop in a V8 supercharged!

there, all done!!