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400HP Isn't cheap...

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Old 04-13-03, 11:56 PM
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400HP Isn't cheap...

I don't have an FD yet but as soon as I finish getting moved in a month or two I will finally be able to purchase one. I have been reading up and learning for quite awhile and planing out what will be the correct path for upgrading my car. I plan on buying either a stock FD with either a recently rebuilt motor or one that is in need of a rebuild and buying a ported reman from one Mazdatrix or Pineapple Racing. My goal is to have an FD that is about as reliable as I can get, drive it on the weekends, take it to the autocross and dragstrip everyonce in awhile and have some good HP. I have decided I want to go with a single T04S because it has good spool for the street and can make some good HP numbers. Eventually I would like to get around 400HP at 14-15PSI on either a stock or street ported motor. I plan on running 10PSI or so on the street and 15PSI or maybe even filling it up with some race gas and running 17 or higher at the drag strip. Here is what I have planned out:
Stage 1 – Tune up, reliability - $400
1. $20 Oil Change, new oil filter
2. $20 Transmission, differential fluids
3. $20 Flush coolant system
4. $20 Replace fuel filter
5. $150 A pillar Gauge Pod(2) Autometer Water Temp/Boost Gauge
6. $100 Replace vacuum line/cooling hoses
7. $50 Add Second oil cooler
8. $20 Upgrade front roll bar mount

Stage 2 – Further reliability, minor power mods - $380
1. $50 Remove Air Separation Tank
2. $150 Center mount gauge pod (4)
3. $180 Autometer Air Fuel/Oil Pressure/EGT/

Stage 3 – Further reliability, more power mods - $1259
1. $350 Aftermarket Radiator
2. $50 Custom Air Intake Kit
3. $400 Custom Cat Back Exhaust
4. $459 Apexi AVC-R Boost Controller

Stage 4. Drivetrain - $905
1. $455 ACT 6-Puck Clutch
2. $450 9.5# Leightweight Aluminum Flywheel

Stage 5 – Major power mods $7336
1. $1100 Haltech
2. $1300 Apexi Front Mount Intercooler
2. $852 Bosch 1600CC Injectors, Comp Pump, SX Regulator, Fuel Rail
3. $3350 XS Engineering T04S Turbo Kit
4. $449 HKS Twin Power Ignition
5. $85 Magnecor 10MM Spark Plug Set
6. $200 Midpipe

I put things in seperate stages in the order that I would upgrade them. Is there anything the order for modifying should be changed? After all that the total is at $10,000 without labor or tuning (I plan do as much of the work as possible by myself) and without porting or a rebuilt motor. So here are my questions. #1 Are all the performance modifications covered here to safely(knock on wood) run 15psi or higher? #2 What other modifications could be done to add more horsepower with that turbo kit? #3 Are there any items that arent necessary that could be removed (without dropping reliability)? #4 I have heard about so many gauges: boost, air/fuel, fuel pressure, oil temp, oil pressure, egt, water temp, are all these gauges needed? Which ones should I have to be safe to monitor my engine properly? I dont really want 6 gauges all over the place, I could get dual gauges, but I want ones with white background, I prefer analog too, what gauges would be best analog or digital? Are the $200 gauges worth the price over the $60 autometer gauges? I think that about covers everything I wanted to know, basically I want to know everything I am going to need besides the tires and such that I will need to make about 400rwhp and keep my engine cool and not blowing up (too soon...)
Old 04-14-03, 12:06 AM
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#1 I made 425 to the wheels @ 14 psi and I don't really think making more power than that is nessicary unless your need to go see the man upstairs or are running the 1/4.
#2 I think you probably will want to stick your computer in at #3 and not worry about the AVC-R untill #5. need exhaust...


all and all... In my personal opinion buy the car and do some minor stuff like you listed and wait...awhile... That way you can learn your car before you go jumping into areas you have never been... don't go off the deap end by dishing out all that kindof $ and not know what your buying and what to do with it and how it works...
Take your time grasshopper... it is alot of stuff to know... and if it is a daily driver... hope you have a backup if you do decide to go ahead and disregard my warning. And I say find someone that knows their **** and put it in yourself - the haltech... I am clueless as how to do that still.
-Ryker
Old 04-14-03, 12:07 AM
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total in the end you'll endup putting about 30-35 grand into the car before you are completly happy (thats including the 15k avg cost of an fd)
Old 04-14-03, 12:11 AM
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Exactly my reasoning for doing it in stages. I am not going to buy the car and do it all a month later. I am just going to upgrade one step at a time get used to things play around and get to know the car for a long time before I go single. I have a daily driver, its just going to be a weekend car maybe take to work once in awhile. With the AVC-R can you adjust your boost from the drivers seat while you aare moving? Is there any other boost controllers anyone might recommend more? I have exhaust on there, still wondering if what type to go with but I have plenty of time to decide. Also stuff may change depending on what tuner I go with and what stuff they have experience working with.
Old 04-14-03, 12:13 AM
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I know about the 30-35K in the car, this isnt the end, nowhere close to the end hehe this is just the humble beginnings.
Old 04-14-03, 12:15 AM
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hmmm...what about stuff like axles, diff, and LSD? and with that much power you're gonna want bigger and better brakes, wider tires, etc etc. You should add another $5000 for all the other stuff I listed and stuff that I didn't think of.

just a suggestion.
Old 04-14-03, 12:17 AM
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I run the PFC and it works for me... but you have to get it tuned... also you can do the poor mans DIY boost controller but thats up to you... you don't want to up your boost on a stock ecu... it has to go. and the more boost the shorter your engine may last....
Old 04-14-03, 12:25 AM
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seeing that list is a good idea of how much to have but i've found out here the last couple months that more "extra" things you dont think about will need to be added and i would suggest to have 3-5k just for those little "extra" things. Along with driveline parts, i think all those, wheels, and brakes could run you closer to 8k, but i do agree that you can never spend enough on it.

Last edited by c00lduke; 04-14-03 at 12:28 AM.
Old 04-14-03, 12:34 AM
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i would be puttin a Down Pipe on Stage #1
Old 04-14-03, 12:42 AM
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Downpipe comes with the T04S kit is why its on the last stage so I went with Catback and Intake first. You think I should put a down pipe 1st even though it comes with the kit?
Old 04-14-03, 01:03 AM
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Originally posted by c00lduke
seeing that list is a good idea of how much to have but i've found out here the last couple months that more "extra" things you dont think about will need to be added and i would suggest to have 3-5k just for those little "extra" things. Along with driveline parts, i think all those, wheels, and brakes could run you closer to 8k, but i do agree that you can never spend enough on it.
I totally agree. things start out cheap, but little things add up and increase the final cost considerably.
like new tools, normal supplies, broken parts, little things you decide to do while you already have X apart, stuff like that.

also, i think some of your prices are a little on the conservative side, especially in stage 1.

what about brake pads, stainless lines, rotors, fluid, suspension stuff, just other normal maintinence items?

nice list though
Old 04-14-03, 01:28 AM
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I think you left out a zero on the oil cooler price!
Old 04-14-03, 01:30 AM
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I am experiencing those little add up costs this month....single here i come!!!!
Old 04-14-03, 01:50 AM
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I've herd of air flow problems with a FMIC on the stock front bumper. With a single this will be very important. You might consider a large SMIC instead.
Old 04-14-03, 03:11 AM
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anyone know what the heck the deal is with www.pineappleracing.com ??? The site and e-mail have been down for like a week!
Old 04-14-03, 09:51 AM
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Originally posted by Icemastr
Downpipe comes with the T04S kit is why its on the last stage so I went with Catback and Intake first. You think I should put a down pipe 1st even though it comes with the kit?
Depending on how long you plan to go between stages, I'd say yes, get one. The stock pre-cat is a huge source of backpressure and heat, and very prone to clogging. Leaving it on with the mods you'll have by about stage 2 will cause a lot of backpressure and put extra strain on the turbos.

Basically it would give you a ton more power while you still have the stock twins, with the advantage of longer turbo life, lower under hood temps, and that cool spooling sound we all love so much
Old 04-14-03, 10:09 AM
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throw in five hundred bucks for dyno time....unless you can do all the tuning yourself.

other things to consider

J&S knock safeguard
Toe and Trailing upgrades from m2
turbo timer
short shifter
brake ducting
little things like upgraded brake lines..fuel lines...fpr
929 master cylindar upgrade
all misc broken stuff...sensors..hoses...wiring stuff.
tires and rims are a must...there goes 4-5 grand easy
might as well paint....whats a paintjob go for now?

there is more....im sure....

BUT The thing that everyone always forgets is the **** you have to buy your girlfriend/wife to keep her from getting mad about you spending all that money on your car.

clothes 1000.00
jewelry 1000.00
misc pet 35.00-500.00 depending
shoes 200.00
dinner when the car goes to the shop for dyno time 80
hairdo 250.00
new drapes or other **** you would never buy 400.00


that about does it.


j

Last edited by artguy; 04-14-03 at 10:13 AM.
Old 04-14-03, 10:31 AM
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Hey, where did my $$$ go?

 
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Re: 400HP Isn't cheap...

Here is what I would do, hope you dont mind me hacking up your list a little.

Stage 1 – All of the tune up and reliability - $880
1. $20 Oil Change, new oil filter
2. $20 Transmission, differential fluids
3. $20 Flush coolant system
4. $20 Replace fuel filter
5. $70 A pillar Gauge Pod(2) Autometer Boost Gauge
6. $75 cooling hoses
7. $50 AST elimination
8. $20 Upgrade front roll bar mount
9. $85 Magnecor 10MM Spark Plug Set
10. $300 real good rotors
11. $200 real good pads

Stage 2 minor power mods - $1900
1. $350 Aftermarket Radiator
2. $50 Custom Air Intake
3. $250 dp
4. $1250 PFC with commander
you can now run 12psi of boost...270rwhp

Stage 3 – Further reliability, more power mods - $2150
1. $400 Catback
2. $1300 Apexi Front Mount Intercooler
3. $450 ACT street/strip Clutch
you can now run 13-14psi of boost.....310rwhp

Stage 4. Drivetrain - $2050
1. $450 Tech Edge wideband
2. $300 Datalogit
3. $250 mp
4. $100 MSD 6a on the leading coils
5. $950 Koni yellows with H&R springs
still 13-14psi of boost but with mp so around 340rwhp

Stage 5 – Major power mods $3452
1. $852 Bosch 1600CC Injectors, Comp Pump, SX Regulator, Fuel Rail
2. $2100 BNR stage 3's
3. $500 for dyno time
you can now run as much as 18psi on pump gas....400+rwhp on pump gas


My list totals $10,432 which is close to yours but check out the real difference. Your still meeting the goal of over 400rwhp on pump gas BUT your also getting suspension, decent brakes, and a wideband along with dataloging capabilities which all will be needed for that level of performance.

Running 400rwhp I would also budget a engine rebuild just incase something goes wrong. You never know whats going to happen when you get to the levels that require major tuning and its better to plan ahead.


STEPHEN
Old 04-14-03, 11:27 AM
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Icemastr, welcome to the great NW. How're you going to get all that through emissions?
Old 04-14-03, 12:25 PM
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wait...i forgot

for the woman...

1 2003 ford explorer sport fully loaded 32000.00
1 personalized license plate 50.00
1 empty bank account 1.00
6 months pay her bills while she sleeps in and plays with cats during the day. 8000.00
1 boot in the *** FREE



and mine wanted to quit her job too....the above list is the bare minimum you can get away with. I wasnt so fortunate. the trick i found is to nickle and dime it with surprise shopping trips and **** like that. most women dont care how much you are spending as long as you are spending. if you spend a little every weekend or so then she cant complain. stay away from the auto dealerships or home buying guides if you know whats good for you. after all...a smaller place with a bigger garage is better than a big place in the city she likes with NO garage at all.




j

Last edited by artguy; 04-14-03 at 12:29 PM.
Old 04-14-03, 01:17 PM
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Well if you want 400 why not go for more, maybe anoter 5000 and youll have a 500 hp car. Thats my theory.
Old 04-14-03, 01:44 PM
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Parts are just part of the cost, as ISUposs pointed out. I am pretty sure that I have spent at least 1/3 - 1/2 of my total spending on my car on tools and supplies, labor for things I didn't do myself (engine rebuild, clutch install), random stock parts I had to replace, stuff I decided to change later, etc. I like the approach of making lists and budgeting, but you will spend more than the sum of the parts. I probably average $20-50 every time I work on the car for fasteners, electrical connectors, hose, fluids, cleaners, whatever. That stuff adds up.

Also, some of the prices listed are not realistic:

Stage 1 – Tune up, reliability

$50 with good fluid and with the purchase of a tool to help fill get the fluid in 2. $20 Transmission, differential fluids

$50 is the cost of the filter and some plugs to stick in the hoses 4. $20 Replace fuel filter

A dual kit costs about $1000, but you might be able to find some used Mazda parts for a few hundred. I don't think this is really necessary for most cars. 7. $50 Add Second oil cooler

$300 The front sway bar mounts I recommend (Widefoot) cost about $270 and you'll probably want to pick up $20 worth of hex key drivers for the install 8. $20 Upgrade front roll bar mount

-Max
Old 04-14-03, 01:49 PM
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Thanks for all the great ideas everyone. I dont have to worry about paying for the women, I am still a bachelor, and a little young. I have lived in Washington State all my life, but I am moving down to California for about a year then I will either be moving to Arizona or Washington which ever I feel like hehe. I am not at all worried about emissions because I will be keeping my car registered in a county that doesnt require emissions. Money for the car really isn't a big object because I will be making quite a bit with my new job, and I dont have any loans or car payments or anything to pay off. I plan on buying the car all cash. I have considered the BNR Stage 3's but I think going with the single is a better idea, because for $1000 more you are getting a bit more power, not much more lag if any, better reliability, plus a downpipe, blow off valve, and a racing wastegate which is an extra $800 in itself. I want all that stuff anyways. I think I want the HKS SS BOV, any of you guys have that? How do you like it? I know its not a performance mod, but it sounds niceeee. I will have to try removing the hose from the stock BOV from the air box and see how that sounds. 500HP IS a bit much since I would like to autocross with the car, and with the T04S I can put in race gas and get 500HP, maybe later down the road I could do that, but I dont need that much power for a long time. I like this front bumper, http://66.216.67.51/product.asp?0=203&1=231&3=117 would that help with the cooiling problems with a FMIC? Plus I like that rear spoiler too, after I get some performance in there what do you think? My goal here is to get a great car with a lot invested in it, but not waste money on parts I am going to upgrade again, at least not for quite awhile.
Old 04-14-03, 01:54 PM
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well said max....I know that i did not budget a wiring harness and and oil metering pump into my latest budget for mods...but i had to shell out the cash to do it.

used omp 400.00
used wiring harness 400.00


its the stuff you arent looking at that bites you in the ***....and dont forget shipping for parts...with everything that has to be a couple hundred right there.

then there is labor for stuff that you couldnt figure out but you should have been able to...for me it was issues with boost drops and boost control...spent two weeks tweaking the stuff before i finally gave up and took it in.


max has every mod necessary I believe...check his website to get the lowdown on what else you need. if anyone knows the costs...tis him.

well i know now too...cuz i just finished spending it...lol...it never ends...does it?
Old 04-14-03, 03:26 PM
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Hey, where did my $$$ go?

 
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No matter what turbo kit you go with, there are some things you were missing that you are going to need if you want it right and dont want to be blowing engines.

You going to need a wideband and some form of Dataloging that will also log inputs by rpm (so you can datalog the wb by rpm along with all the other parameters). I personally like the Datalogit and Tech Edge wideband. Its cheap compared to other similar stuff and it works great. Also, if you go pfc you dont need the water temp gauges as the pfc will show the temps.

I basically suggested the stage 3 BNR turbos so that you could fit these other very important items into the same budget. They also fit into the overall hp goal you were trying to achieve.

BTW - What singles for $3100 make more overall power on pump gas with similar low end power??? I havent seen any but maybe I missed it somewhere.

STEPHEN

Last edited by SPOautos; 04-14-03 at 03:31 PM.


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