3runs at the track..bad idle now??
#27
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I have the an intermittently bouncing idle and prone to stalling and have scheduled compression check for Monday. If it doesn't pass, less then 3K on rebuild, the Iranian will be looking to purchase me. Everything on my car was setup by my tuner and this started happening well with in the 12 mouth warranty period. Which he should have check by now.
I hope it's not the case as my oil consumption is extremely low, less then half a quart in 2500 mile and at 850 rpm idle I pull -436 of vacuum when not bouncing.
On the other hand if I have to eat this call me hater because LS6 or LS7 here I come.
I hope it's not the case as my oil consumption is extremely low, less then half a quart in 2500 mile and at 850 rpm idle I pull -436 of vacuum when not bouncing.
On the other hand if I have to eat this call me hater because LS6 or LS7 here I come.
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#29
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Originally Posted by Cgotto6
Dude. Why do you keep posting? You know what you need to do. What did you expect was gonna happen when you took an untuned car to the track? People even warned you about it. Good luck.
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#30
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
i know what i have to do, and i already made my appt at 10 am this morning to take it to the shop. I keep posting b/c people are asking questions to help decipher my problem (which i appreciate) also ive never owned one of these, and i always read posts about bad idles, so i figured id ask, with any other car ive owned, if it broke: it was broke not able to be driven around as if nothing was wrong except the idle being lumpy
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#33
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I had something very similar and it turned out a large vaccuum line had blown off. I found it by spraying brake cleaner around the vac hoses while the car was running and noticing a change in idle when I sprayed on the bad hose.
#34
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I know it's hard to face (I've been there recently), but from you have been posting I have been getting flashbacks of my blown motor. Look at it this way, now you can port it and maybe do some other things differently.
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
no stock midpipe. it drives fine it boosts fine, it appears to not have as much vac as it did before. if its at an idle it shakes, but as soon as i raise the rpm's to 1200 it goes away, it drives fine. I drove it home 30 miles from the track. my friend said that it sounds like i fouled a plug. I dont know, this **** is so frustrating.
Edit: everything thats done is intake;catback exhaust; boost controller.
Last edited by JDawG707; 05-18-06 at 08:42 PM.
#36
Yes if your idle is bouncing that may be a good sign. I had a huge vaccum leak and my idle was bouncy sometimes(especially with the lights/ac on). Dont worry about the jerks. We, as the evil forum, have a rotating cast of them. Its not so bad. You get to be a jerk every once in a while too![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I wish we could help more were just not there to poke around. Check the hoses on the upper intake manifold, towards the front of the car, right on the backside of the throttle body. Theres a group of 3 or 4 of them(too lazy to go check). Its a good place to start. Remove the black vaccuum chamber so you can shine a light under the UIM. You may see a problem under there but if you do spot one youre in for a fun weekend.
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I wish we could help more were just not there to poke around. Check the hoses on the upper intake manifold, towards the front of the car, right on the backside of the throttle body. Theres a group of 3 or 4 of them(too lazy to go check). Its a good place to start. Remove the black vaccuum chamber so you can shine a light under the UIM. You may see a problem under there but if you do spot one youre in for a fun weekend.
#37
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Originally Posted by Barban
Yes if your idle is bouncing that may be a good sign. I had a huge vaccum leak and my idle was bouncy sometimes(especially with the lights/ac on). Dont worry about the jerks. We, as the evil forum, have a rotating cast of them. Its not so bad. You get to be a jerk every once in a while too![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I wish we could help more were just not there to poke around. Check the hoses on the upper intake manifold, towards the front of the car, right on the backside of the throttle body. Theres a group of 3 or 4 of them(too lazy to go check). Its a good place to start. Remove the black vaccuum chamber so you can shine a light under the UIM. You may see a problem under there but if you do spot one youre in for a fun weekend.
![Smilie](https://www.rx7club.com/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I wish we could help more were just not there to poke around. Check the hoses on the upper intake manifold, towards the front of the car, right on the backside of the throttle body. Theres a group of 3 or 4 of them(too lazy to go check). Its a good place to start. Remove the black vaccuum chamber so you can shine a light under the UIM. You may see a problem under there but if you do spot one youre in for a fun weekend.
#38
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Originally Posted by LUPE
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AWD, nothing you have said sounds like a major motor problem to me. The car starts easily and when there are seal problems it typically won't.
I think it's just a vacuum line. (It's always a vacuum line.) Do what Barban said. Look for the vacuum lines on the back of the throttle body & root around with a mirror and a flashlight under the UIM to see if anything is off.
And for the hell of it, check your clutch switch. That is a major player in lousy idle. Cheap & quick fix.
I think it's just a vacuum line. (It's always a vacuum line.) Do what Barban said. Look for the vacuum lines on the back of the throttle body & root around with a mirror and a flashlight under the UIM to see if anything is off.
And for the hell of it, check your clutch switch. That is a major player in lousy idle. Cheap & quick fix.
Last edited by tcb100; 05-18-06 at 10:09 PM.
#40
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Same Problem here...
I have disconnected the clutch switch. No change
I disconnected the smog pump. Fast bouncing!!! more or less no change
Adjusted the screws on the throttle body. per previous post, slight improvement,,, sort of
Shop has replace at least two part, damn need to look up what those were.
replaced all the check valves.
At of all the guys here someone must have solved this problem..
The low end is weaker then I remember with stock setup, but I have taken a 06 vette and a 06 Z06,,, traction was the latter's problem... A blow rotary couldn't pull that off right. I guess I'll know Monday....
I have disconnected the clutch switch. No change
I disconnected the smog pump. Fast bouncing!!! more or less no change
Adjusted the screws on the throttle body. per previous post, slight improvement,,, sort of
Shop has replace at least two part, damn need to look up what those were.
replaced all the check valves.
At of all the guys here someone must have solved this problem..
The low end is weaker then I remember with stock setup, but I have taken a 06 vette and a 06 Z06,,, traction was the latter's problem... A blow rotary couldn't pull that off right. I guess I'll know Monday....
#42
I wonder if your TPS is bad. (throttle position sensor)
The bouncing idle problem i had with my old turbo II. I found the TPS to be bad so i got a new one and adjusted it. I am not saying thats definately your problem here but its worth testing.
The bouncing idle problem i had with my old turbo II. I found the TPS to be bad so i got a new one and adjusted it. I am not saying thats definately your problem here but its worth testing.
Last edited by 2-Rotor; 05-19-06 at 03:16 PM.
#44
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Originally Posted by AWD-RWD racer
just hooked up my boost/vac gauge. pulls a strong 16-17 hg vac. If that means ne thing to u guys.
Does the needle on the gauge bounce around real quickly or does it stay on 16/17 pretty solidly?
R.K.
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I have a very, very similar problem with my 93. It only happens when the car is good and warmed up, it starts stumbling at idle and jumping around from 500-700 RPM. While it's stumbling, I'm seeing about 12 or 10"Hg. I cry on the inside while it's happening.
The shitty thing is it works fine sometimes. On both a stock ECU and the PowerFC (very mild mods) it runs great, when the idle settles down I'm seeing 19 or 18"Hg. On boost I see a little over 9 psi (I think the manual boost controller has been nudged a little).
So every other week or so it'll start this dance after about 20 minutes of driving. I'm anxious to hear the resolution on this problem.
The shitty thing is it works fine sometimes. On both a stock ECU and the PowerFC (very mild mods) it runs great, when the idle settles down I'm seeing 19 or 18"Hg. On boost I see a little over 9 psi (I think the manual boost controller has been nudged a little).
So every other week or so it'll start this dance after about 20 minutes of driving. I'm anxious to hear the resolution on this problem.
#48
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I still am disappointed I haven't seen more flame-age. AWD, you completely ignored a very large majority of people when you took your car to the track. You're runing 14psi without a proper tune, you could have very well blown a seal. I wish you luck on the compression test, but it'll be a good lesson to learn.
#49
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Just got my compression check today, Good and very good. The car was warm so the number are a little high. I was pretty sure that it would be good, on the other hand it doesn't solve the problem but at least I know it not major.
Frt rotor 9.8, 10.0, 10.0 new
Rear rotor 9.7, 9.7, 9.8 used
Frt rotor 9.8, 10.0, 10.0 new
Rear rotor 9.7, 9.7, 9.8 used