Im sure there was quite a bit of padding on that $$, but I'll find out a figure for the shortblock this week.
Unfortunately its that last 10% of custom parts that creates all the expense!

As for 20B's... I find it amusing when people talk of 20B conversions running US$30k when you can buy a 20B needing a rebuild down here for around US$700
Certainly not uncommon to find a 20BB in an old RX3 or heck, even a toyota hiace van :P

My current fav 20B rolling around here is 'FURSTY' FD:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...b1100404ev.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...p/DSC01197.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...p/DSC01195.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b3...p/DSC01194.jpg

 

Thx for checking.

Well if we actually had 3 rotor Cosmo sedans sold here, things would have been a lot cheaper just for the engines. Damn there's that "Supply and Demand thing again. LOL

That's a nice custom built 3 rotor right there.

 

Sick Vid

 

we're talking what? 3 piece e-shaft, a coustom stationary gear or two?, some really long bolts, and a balancing weight...... am i leaving anything out? with those parts you would be able to take any housings/rotors you want to any rotary builder and have it assembled to your spec. now all thats left is building an intake and exhaust manifold, coustom fuel rail etc, finding a way to mount it, and getting a computer that will run a 4 rotor. its basically a 3-rotor project which would REQUIRE you to cut the firewall, and the added expense of the engine internals + an intake manifold (unless you used two 13b manifolds).

 

Well this is what I figured the cost would probably be. When you break it down more, it's a little easier to see where all the cost goes. Also this is just a basic build of the engine. So it can really get expensive when you think about it. The prices doesn't include ceramic apex seals or special coatings. Keep in mind that these are my own estimates and are in no way factual.


Damn the e-shaft and dry sump would account for nearly half the cost.

 

t-von: dont forget a coustom intake header, coustom piping, coustom exhaust manifold, coustom 4" exhaust all the way back, shortened drive shaft, modified PPF, coustom subframe, and a bunch of cutting of the firewall to move it back. you could probably do without the RB parts, and maybe even forego the dry sump system. so you could theoretically subtract $3K off of that price making it $14,400.

if we're comparing this to a 3rotor buildup, subtract $4K for the 20b, $3k for a turbo making it roughly $7,400 more than a 20b install. granted thats a good chunk of change.... but in the grand scheme of things its not THAT much more than a well built 20b setup (and would probably be more reliable) albeit much worse on MPG's . anyway, its really not that unreasonable if you break it down. heath

 

Well I know all those other items are a factor, but right now all I care about is figuring out what the short block cost were. I believe you would have to keep the dry sump because I don't think even a stock 20b oil pump will have adequate flow for a 4 rotor at high rpm's. Everything else I could fabricate myself. Anyways if I get to the point of really trying to build a 4 rotor, it's not going into an Rx7. I got something else in mind.

 

To say that thing sounds bad *** would be an understatement.

 

Well NZ 4 & rotor nationals were held over the weekend... I didn't manage to make it, but as everyone wanted here are some vids of the 4 rotors running!

FOURRE 1
FOURRE 2
Lawton SP20 (4rotor twin turbo)
Lawton SP20 2

Will add more as I find them

 

Nice vids. Damn you New Zealanders have some nics rotors!