2 boost issue questions(lots of searching)
10-23-07, 09:46 PM
#26
i almost forgot. as promised, my fix
It turned out to be something simple that mazda just over looked when they put in the reman and turbos. My ABV hose went to the nipple next to the base of the y pipe. the hose that should have been there, looped from the uim to the lower manifold....so it was doing nothing. so i sat there with diagram and routed all back together, and my 2nd turbo came online!
one last question for everyone. The KOKO test. My charge actuator completly opens and closes when KOKO. However, the turbo control actuator does not move in and hold, or out and hold. When you KOKO, the rod just jumps in a little, and instantly, without holding position, moves back out.it just "flicks". Ive still been unable to make 10psi on the secondary, and i think this might be related. does anyone know if the turbo control should move the same as the charge control?
It turned out to be something simple that mazda just over looked when they put in the reman and turbos. My ABV hose went to the nipple next to the base of the y pipe. the hose that should have been there, looped from the uim to the lower manifold....so it was doing nothing. so i sat there with diagram and routed all back together, and my 2nd turbo came online!
one last question for everyone. The KOKO test. My charge actuator completly opens and closes when KOKO. However, the turbo control actuator does not move in and hold, or out and hold. When you KOKO, the rod just jumps in a little, and instantly, without holding position, moves back out.it just "flicks". Ive still been unable to make 10psi on the secondary, and i think this might be related. does anyone know if the turbo control should move the same as the charge control?
10-23-07, 09:57 PM
#27
Yes, it should.
Check all the lines leading from the actuator to the solenoids in the rack. If you have a vacuum pump now is the perfect time to use it. Or buy a 1/8" tee fitting and route your boost gauge into the line between the actuator and solenoid. Run the KOKO again or do a road boost test. The vacuum should go full vacuum at 4500, and the pressure should go full primary pressure at 4500. Whichever (maybe both) is the circuit that has the problem.
Some people take the simple approach and just replace both turbo control solenoids. Since these solenoids sometimes go bad on their own it's not a bad strategy. Depends how specific you want to diagnose before spending money on parts.
Dave
Check all the lines leading from the actuator to the solenoids in the rack. If you have a vacuum pump now is the perfect time to use it. Or buy a 1/8" tee fitting and route your boost gauge into the line between the actuator and solenoid. Run the KOKO again or do a road boost test. The vacuum should go full vacuum at 4500, and the pressure should go full primary pressure at 4500. Whichever (maybe both) is the circuit that has the problem.
Some people take the simple approach and just replace both turbo control solenoids. Since these solenoids sometimes go bad on their own it's not a bad strategy. Depends how specific you want to diagnose before spending money on parts.
Dave
10-24-07, 05:56 PM
#28
My mityvac silverline kit came in 2 days ago! perfect! I got the one that does pressure and vacuum.
now this might be a stupid question, but how do i test it? The way i understand it is, the ecu has both solenoids closed until 4500rpm, at which point it opens both, so it "blows" and "sucks"(hehe, yeah so im 10 yrs old again,ha) opposite sides of the actuator causing it to work much quicker than opposed to only one side gettting vacuum, or only one side getting pressure.
so how would i test anything with the car off? or at idle?
now this might be a stupid question, but how do i test it? The way i understand it is, the ecu has both solenoids closed until 4500rpm, at which point it opens both, so it "blows" and "sucks"(hehe, yeah so im 10 yrs old again,ha) opposite sides of the actuator causing it to work much quicker than opposed to only one side gettting vacuum, or only one side getting pressure.
so how would i test anything with the car off? or at idle?
10-24-07, 06:46 PM
#29
maybe you really do have a boost issue..and your just using the needle boost controller to even out the boost.
maybe i missed a post or something, but why not just put the pill back in the pre-spool hose and the pill in the primary turbo line. then go from there? maybe you'll find your problem
maybe i missed a post or something, but why not just put the pill back in the pre-spool hose and the pill in the primary turbo line. then go from there? maybe you'll find your problem
10-24-07, 07:47 PM
#30
^ my lines never had the pills, or at least, i am not the one that removed them. I really thought my "pills" were in the nipples on the turbos because theyre pretty new. but i am able to control boost with my needle valves, even reduce it, so that doesnt make much sense.
but , that is not the problem. i fixed the main problem by re routing some misplaced hoses.
dont forget about testing the solenoid "how to". as i have not found anything.
but , that is not the problem. i fixed the main problem by re routing some misplaced hoses.
dont forget about testing the solenoid "how to". as i have not found anything.
10-24-07, 09:11 PM
#31
First plug into the actuator and apply vacuum or pressure. See that it holds (vacuum or pressure).
Next, you can tee into the line between the y-pipe and pressure chamber and apply pressure. See that it holds the pressure without leaking. Ditto for the vacuum chamber, but using vacuum.
That leaves the solenoids in between if you haven't found a problem yet. You can remove them and test them one-by-one or just replace them. Or using the mityvac you can pull the UIM and test them in-place.
Another note: the mityvac works as an extra boost gauge. So you can tee your mityvac into one of the lines feeding the TCA and go for a drive. At 4500 it should flip fully to pressure or vacuum. Then re-rig to test the other side. Whichever one (maybe both) isn't consistently delivering to the TCA is at fault. Another option is to do the KOKO test with the mityvac tee'd in like this and see which side going into the TCA is at fault.
So really once you get to see the various ways to use it you can pretty much snoop on any part of the turbo control system. Remember that the control system goes from (pressure or vacuum) tank to a solenoid to an actuator. I usually verify that the tank is holding a proper reserve and that the actuator isn't leaking, then focus on what's left - often the solenoid.
Dave
Next, you can tee into the line between the y-pipe and pressure chamber and apply pressure. See that it holds the pressure without leaking. Ditto for the vacuum chamber, but using vacuum.
That leaves the solenoids in between if you haven't found a problem yet. You can remove them and test them one-by-one or just replace them. Or using the mityvac you can pull the UIM and test them in-place.
Another note: the mityvac works as an extra boost gauge. So you can tee your mityvac into one of the lines feeding the TCA and go for a drive. At 4500 it should flip fully to pressure or vacuum. Then re-rig to test the other side. Whichever one (maybe both) isn't consistently delivering to the TCA is at fault. Another option is to do the KOKO test with the mityvac tee'd in like this and see which side going into the TCA is at fault.
So really once you get to see the various ways to use it you can pretty much snoop on any part of the turbo control system. Remember that the control system goes from (pressure or vacuum) tank to a solenoid to an actuator. I usually verify that the tank is holding a proper reserve and that the actuator isn't leaking, then focus on what's left - often the solenoid.
Dave
10-25-07, 06:55 PM
#33
Ok, i got off work at a decent hour and decided to test.
pressure chamber holds 10psi no problem.
vacuum chamber holds 20inhg no problem.
So i crawled underneath to test the actuator. applied pressure to the pressure side. The rod moved in, and it did make it to 10psi, but it took a long time, AND it wouldnt hold at 10, or any pressure for that matter.
The rod would move in, but as soon as i stop using the handpump, it would slowly move back out. and i could hear a hissing sound....hmmm. I put my finger around the area where the rod comes out of the actautor and that seemed to stop the hiss....or cover it up enough that i couldnt hear it.
i did the same thing on the vacuum side, and i got the same results. wouldnt hold vacuum....rod moved back out slowly.
oook... so should it hold? or are my results normal?
pressure chamber holds 10psi no problem.
vacuum chamber holds 20inhg no problem.
So i crawled underneath to test the actuator. applied pressure to the pressure side. The rod moved in, and it did make it to 10psi, but it took a long time, AND it wouldnt hold at 10, or any pressure for that matter.
The rod would move in, but as soon as i stop using the handpump, it would slowly move back out. and i could hear a hissing sound....hmmm. I put my finger around the area where the rod comes out of the actautor and that seemed to stop the hiss....or cover it up enough that i couldnt hear it.
i did the same thing on the vacuum side, and i got the same results. wouldnt hold vacuum....rod moved back out slowly.
oook... so should it hold? or are my results normal?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
