Sorry but I have a list of questions, that are bugging me. Going to be starting my first full rebuild this month. I have two rebuild vids for the 13b engine; also have a huge shopping list of parts that im going to order once inspected the damage - car died of O-ring failure. The previous owner killed the car - and I’m pretty sure he did a block weld fix and if i see him again I’m going to kill him. (End of that rant)

The questions:

1. Any links/things to consider before removal?
2. Things you guys learnt do's/don’ts before hand to make it easier?
3. Prepping an engine before removal? (Draining fuel tank?).
4. Is there a write up on removing a 13b engine with out removing the transmission?

Found one link includes the transmission though
http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/3r...eng_remov.html

5. Evans NPG+ coolant, is it ok for new rebuilt engine I have a pressure tester to check for leaks before installing the Evans coolant?
6. Should I still run AST with Evans even if it is creating no pressure?
7. Does anyone have a picture of how there coolant system is set up with out AST?

From my understanding, I eliminate the AST by plugging the nipple at the bottom of my koyo radiator. What did you plug it with? Or did you do an aluminium weld?

Also what else do I need to plug? Do I still keep the coolant running from the neck to the overflow? Or something different?

8. Where can I order copper crush washers for my stock brakes? can't find them any where, any already have new braided lines but I broke one of the washers.

I know I’m asking alot but any answers to my questions would be great, and please don't stone me if there’s a link on all of these questions, I couldn't find them all.

Thanks
Lee

 

1. Rotary Aviation makes a DVD that I thought was helpful...http://www.rotaryaviation.com/R%20R%20Video.htm
2. Having an leveler with your engine hoist is helpful. Especially if you go the route of #4.
Two guys is good, three is great. At least one more set of eyes. Go slow and double check that you've disconnected everything....be especially careful of the oil cooler lines and A/C hard lines. There's also a sticky for dealing with the pull-type clutch. It's not complicated, but can be confusing for the first timer.
3. Don't forget the block coolant drain plug. Release fuel pressure but draining tank is not necessary.

 

what sgtblue said and pull the gearbox out with the engine as for me its a lot easier and takes less time.

DIY-RE 13B is a good dvd too, 4 disc DVD set from start to finish and has posters for easy reference. www.diy-re.co.nz

Good luck with the build

 

thanks for that ill get that video too, ill search the forum about pull-type clutch see what i can get.

thanks again

 

Here ya go...from the sticky FAQs -----> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uPCi4RpGQCU

 

I haven't taken a motor out without the transmission, but I put my motor in with the transmission already in. The previous owner had removed it without the transmission. Thinking in reverse, attach the engine hoist, take out all the bolts from the transmission to the engine, then put a jack under the front of the transmission to lift it. Use the engine hoist too! You have to be a little slope on the engine transmission. Once the engine mounts clear the frame you should be able to separate the engine. You have to do the clutch first I think! Don't know if that really helps.

 

Lee,

Here's a checklist I made to help me remeber the major steps whenever I pull an engine. It's based off the RotaryAviation video and keeps me from having to go in and out of the garage:

Engine Removal


Remove lower Engine Louver
Drain Oil
Drain Coolant
Remove Intake/Intercooler Baffle
Remove Battery (negative cable first)
Remove Battery Box and Tray
Remove Intercooler to UIM pipe
Remove top bolt to intercooler Mounting bracket
Remove shroud nuts (x2) from the intercooler
Disconnect intake hose for intercooler
Remove Air Intake

Remove lower Intercooler shroud nuts
Remove Intercooler
Remove AC bracket on crossmember
Disconnect Upper Radiator hose
Remove crossmember
Disconnect oil cooler lines
Disconnect heater return
Disconnect Lower Radiator hose

Loosen Idler Pulley
Remove accsy belt
Remove P/S Pulley
Remove P/S bolts (4)
Move P/S Pump out of the way
Disconnect driver side wiring harness (2 on the fender, 2 at the main fuse block, ground connection at the fender)
Drape Harness over engine
Disconnect A/C compressor wiring
Remove Top A/C compressor bolt
Disconnect, Mark, and cap Fuel lines
Disconnect Heater Hose (on driver side - engine block)
Disconnect hose to MAP Sensor
Disconnect Throttle Cable
Disconnect Brake Booster
Disconnect ground cable

Disconnect 3 connectors from ECU
Remove ABS heat shield
Remove ECU cabling from interior
Drape over engine

Remove Transmission Splash Pan
Remove Motor Mount bolts from sub-frame
Lift Engine slightly - about 2 inches
Remove Motor Mount Assy
Rest engine back onto subframe
Remove Starter
Disconnect exhaust at down pipe
Remove transmission wiring harness
Disconnect air pipe from the catalytic converter (near the firewall)

Remove Clutch access panel
Unbolt pressure plate bolts
Pry pressure plate off dowel pins
Pump clutch pedal to release pressure plate
Remove bell housing bolts (10 oclock, 1 oclock, 2 oclock, 5oclock, behind starter) 14mm - 24in extension
Remove ground strap
Raise engine off subframe ~ 2 inches
Remove lower A/C bolts
Tie A/C compressor to fender
Support transmission with jack
Pull engine out

Good Luck,

Daniel

 

You should get the car started with regular coolant/water mix. After everything is running and fine, switch over to Evans. The reason is, usually after an engine swap you'll most likely have a few leaks and drips to fix. Its better to leak the cheap stuff than the expensive stuff.

If you are going with Evans, I would remove the AST (if possible).

You need to have a t-stat housing with a removable filler neck. The filler neck gets replaced by one from an FC:

http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/coolant_tank.htm

 

Thanks guys, you's are helping loads with your input. The job is sounding easyier by the post, cheers

Lee

 

im also having trouble deciding between a few different rebuild kits, (benefits of each one etc) ill post later on. and a few question about stud kits if any ones used them etc

thanks

 

cheers Daniel im half way through your list

 

4. Unbolt trans housing from engine, open the inspection port cover on the bell housing, unbolt pressure plate, separate engine from transmission.
5. If you are going to use NPG, use it on the new rebuild. If you don't, you'll have to go through a very lengthy and painful procedure to flush out the old stuff with Sierra coolant and then add NPG and burp the system. If you have time to waste be my guest. If you have "leaks" from the short block after your rebuild, the coolant wouldn't be the most costly mistake you have, besides you can drain 99% of the stuff back into the original container and re-use it.
6. No AST is needed with 0 pressure NPG system.
7. It's just 1 hose from the filler neck to the overflow tank.

Clamp a 4-5" piece of good quality hose to the radiator nipple and plug it up with an appropriate size bolt and clamp down securely.

If you are doing the rebuild your self be aware of all the necessary tools that is required. It will cost well over $ 500.00 purchased new.
Here is a quick list (not including the usual tools):
Torque wrench (>15Ft-LB)
Torque wrench (<15Ft-LB)
3/4" Breaker bar with 6ft steel pipe (or impact wrench capable of over 1000 Ft-Lb breaking force and good size compressor), you will need this to break loose the flywheel nut), hell, the damn socket that fits the nut is $45.00.
Feeler gauge
Micrometer (3 different size ranges)
Depth gauge
Magnetic gauge holder
Gap gauge
Dentist's picks

These are just a few off the top of my head.

 

Kool yer pretty sure im going to go with the Evans coolant im just going to have to pressure test the build properly for leaks because the Evans wont create any pressure to force out coolant.

ive got a 1997 rx7, from this link http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/coolant_tank.htm do i have to replace the hole neck and add the FC filler cap with drain to the over flow? can i not use the original? or is it because the way the cooling system flows that i cannot use the original neck as it was made for a AST? if so where can i purchase a FC neck and FC cap with drain?

thanks Lee

 

First you need to check to see if your filler neck is removable. Mazda changed the design later in the RX-7 to make it all one piece.

 

The part you need to replace is just the very upper portion of the filler neck (the black piece in the picture from the link you posted), that's it.

 

The hard part of pulling for a first timer will likely be separating the throwout bearing from the pressure plate. There should be plenty of info available on this but in the event you dont figure it out it is possible to just remove the 6 bolts that hold the pressure plate to the flywheel by getting at them through the inspection plate and having somebody turn the motor with a ratchet and socket on the front pulley. I did this a couple times before figuring out the easy way.

As for Evans, nothing says you cant run a high pressure cap to check for leaks, it just wastes the more expensive Evans if you do have a leak. When I ran evans I ran it with a 7psi cap. Probably your best bet would be to run straight Sierra with a pressure cap for the first little bit though. Once you are confident you have no leaks you can just drain it and put in Evans and the left over Sierra can be used in your other vehicles.

 

Yes my filler neck is all a one piece, thats what was throwing me off. currently ive got the one piece neck with stock rad cap? am i going to have to replace all this? or can you use the one piece neck?

lee

 

hmm, separating the throwout bearing from the pressure plate, is this covered in any of the rebuild videos, ive currently got the aktins vid and the 4 disc rebuild vid on order which im waiting for before i start

thanks
Lee

 

I have no idea if its on the vids, but basically its this:

remove the starter and the clutch slave cylinder
stick finger through starter hole and pull the paddle back to relieve pressure on the throwout bearing (keep holding until the bearing is released)
Get your biggest slot screwdriver and going through the inspection hole, place the blade between the throwout bearing and the very fragile looking stamped ring clip
Twist the screwdriver to push the stamped metal ring toward the pressure plate
work your way around the ring to fully separate it from the bearing

You will need a flashlight to see what you are doing, I usually end up holding that in my mouth while laying on my back looking into the inspection hole.

 

Check the link I gave you in Post #5.

 

kool, thought it was the same in the vid thanks

ill keep on posting once i get the engine out and find out what the damage is, or if i have any trouble.

thanks for all your help guys

lee

 

what experience have you guys had between the kits, or can you guys recommend something else?

Viton Vacuum Hose kit:
http://www.hightempsilicone.com/prod..._Hose_kit.html

silicone Vacuum Hose kit:
http://www.rx7store.net/ProductDetai...hBlue&CartID=1

 

I've got the Hightempsilicone SILICONE kit. All the varying sizes with enough length in each come with the kit. Silicone works just fine and IMO the most cost effective. Just can't have prolonged exposure to oil/petroleum. The viton is REALLY nice stuff if you've got the money, but probably overkill for most. FWIW, you can get the slicone in your choice of 3 colors. IIRC, viton is only black.
I got mine here:http://www.hightempsilicone.com/resu...=&keywords=rx7

 

Bird's nest ?

I guess that works.

 

I did mine using the silicone line here
http://www.xs-engineering.com/xsstor...idCategory=117

Its high quality thick wall line and all the hose you need ends up about $35 or so

I dont remember exactly but its something like 15 feet of the 4mm and 10 feet of 6mm