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Unfortunately I can't do that since my drive from home to the freeway is like 3 mins . The cat doesn't warm up fast enough in those 3 mins before I hop on the highway.
Freeway doesn't require boost. Not on my car anyway.
Unfortunately I can't do that since my drive from home to the freeway is like 3 mins . The cat doesn't warm up fast enough in those 3 mins before I hop on the highway.
Originally Posted by Testrun
Freeway doesn't require boost. Not on my car anyway.
Same here - as long as you're gentle on the throttle, no boost (defined by vacuum or 0 psi on a boost gauge) required. And it's not an absolute drop-dead number - a momentary boost of a psi or 2 is not going to kill the engine.
….. Hmmmmm,.....Maybe I should run 20w50 with a bottle of 10w30 in it instead of the other way around lol.... this video does make me think a bit. Just kidding, but Thanks for the info.
Or unless you’re starting your car in a freezer, just run the heavier viscosity, wait until warm-up before boost so that bi-metal sandwich of an engine is heated thoroughly and evenly and be done with it.
And remember that we have turbochargers with journal bearings in a very high heat environment. There’s a lot of good in that video but other/additional factors are in play that differ from a procharger in a piston engine.
Until the "pros" such as yourself come together with one or two simple answers there will always be misguided answers to questions.. Or , what one would think is wrong or right.
I think I was pretty succinct with my answer regarding the argument for heavier oils, and while I don't know everything I do build these engines for customers and dyno them numerous times a month.
I think I was pretty succinct with my answer regarding the argument for heavier oils, and while I don't know everything I do build these engines for customers and dyno them numerous times a month.
There are othar's (pros) that may think different though. Thats the biggest issue. My builder has been around since the beginning of rotary time. He is primarily a drag racer. He feels straight 40 cannot be beat. PERIOD. I broke my new motor in on the Penzoil 40 and switched to synthetic. (Mazda crated motor and switched out apex seals and got a large SP. I went 20w50. Then started to experiment. 10w30. Watched temps and everything. Ended up with RP 10w30 mixing in a 20w50 and 10w40 mixing in a 20w50.
For me this achieved the lowest temps. This is how I came up with my oil. I am in SoFLo l, so we got some heat and I tend to run heavier.
There are othar's (pros) that may think different though. Thats the biggest issue. My builder has been around since the beginning of rotary time. He is primarily a drag racer. He feels straight 40 cannot be beat. PERIOD. I broke my new motor in on the Penzoil 40 and switched to synthetic. (Mazda crated motor and switched out apex seals and got a large SP. I went 20w50. Then started to experiment. 10w30. Watched temps and everything. Ended up with RP 10w30 mixing in a 20w50 and 10w40 mixing in a 20w50.
For me this achieved the lowest temps. This is how I came up with my oil. I am in SoFLo l, so we got some heat and I tend to run heavier.
I get what you are saying!
And drag racers that I build for don't run oil coolers as they're running for so little time or they're on full meth and will never see the 100C that oil viscosity is standardized to. Comparing corner cases like that isn't reasonable.
The fact remains that unless we're talking in the extreme pressure will always trump temperature up until 100C (212F) - after that quality of oils and cooling could be factored in but I've yet to see an instance where I can increase flow by running a lower viscosity cools well enough to offset that same reduction in viscosity.
And drag racers that I build for don't run oil coolers as they're running for so little time or they're on full meth and will never see the 100C that oil viscosity is standardized to. Comparing corner cases like that isn't reasonable.
The fact remains that unless we're talking in the extreme pressure will always trump temperature up until 100C (212F) - after that quality of oils and cooling could be factored in but I've yet to see an instance where I can increase flow by running a lower viscosity cools well enough to offset that same reduction in viscosity.
I agree... which is why I went my own route taking in bits and pieces from all on here and the tuning groups. Old schoolers, RP, Banzai, Kilo, and never dismissing some new guys.
I should mention Pettit....even though I am mad at them lol.
This is a Blackstone Labs oil analysis report for Idemitsu 10w30 after only 2000 miles of street driving in a 60k+ miles RX-8. Notice the viscosity is already below range.
This is an NA Renesis, turbo blow-by and fuel dilution is usually worse. This supports the mindset of using 20W50 in rotaries except for extremely cold weather. I know it's a single point data set but it correlates with others.
Since there was no fuel or coolant dilution, what caused the oil level to rise?
Every time I park my car at home after driving the FD:
(1) I remove the Oil cap and
(2) pull out the oil stick so that the rubber seal is not sealing the tube.
This allows some venting of the oil pan and helps remove moisture and gas fumes.
Since I have a garage, I have it vented because this engine venting makes the garage smell of gasoline.
06-23-24, 09:49 AM
