yeah, switch the rear set wheels/tires to the front and front to back. make sure its rotating in the right direction as indicated on the tire since some tires are uni-directional.

 

rx76k, welcome to the forum. I dunno how else to say this, but the RX7Club Forum is really like no other. There's really no real spectrum of ppl on here. They're either super helpful, or complete ********. Nothing in between, because the guys in between just don't post lol. The funnier part is, there's no correlation between what end of the spectrum they're on, and how much knowledge they have. So yea, just grow some thick skin real quick, and you'll be fine, because on here, even the dumbasses w/ bone stock non-running cars like to flame lol.

LOL! And all this time, I thought I was the only person who did that hehe. Of course, having a quick mechanic's jack helps a lot

 

...and if you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen. If you post inaccurate or faulty information here you're liable to be called on it, as you were.

 

You continue to argue your foolish point that oil should be changed cold by attempting a lame rebuttal which makes an apples and oranges comparison. What you reference above mainly concerns materials durability. It has nothing to do with operating or servicing instructions recommended by the manufacturer. I'll repeat, despite adam c's recommendation, the FD's owner's manual specifies that the engine be warmed up before the oil is changed. He's an "expert" in everything but the basics.

 

LOL! First you recommend cold. Then you change your mind to warm. Now you've gone AC/DC. That's what I like, an "expert" who can't make up his mind.

 

It really is amazing that there are some who don't know some very, very basic things about servicing cars. If for some reason you doubt the owner's manual, then do a Google search on your own. Here's the first one that came up when I searched for a step by step guide on how to change oil. This is something any competent mechanic will tell you. Note step #2:



2. Run the car's engine for 10 minutes before you drain the oil. Warm oil drains faster than cold oil.

http://www.ehow.com/how_11_change-motor-oil.html


And as someone else noted, it also gets more contaminants out of your engine.

You can follow your owner's manual. You can listen to the advice of independent experts. Or you can believe some dudes who post on the internet. Your choice.

 

You point out that I am "some dude who posts on the internet". I guess that is supposed to imply that I don't know what I am talking about. Now, to dispute my procedure, look what you have done. You have posted a procedure from another "dude who posts on the internet" Brilliant once again

For what its worth, I have been racing Mazda RX7's in competition since 1982. During that time, I built a very competitive 79 base model CSP RX7 for solo 2, which I raced successfully for many years. I have done over a hundred oil changes on RX7s, and found that changing oil on a cold engine is much easier.

You point out the Mazda shop manual's recommendation, like it is the final word on everything. It is a recommendation, not an absolute. As pointed out earlier, Mazda recommends lots of things that we do not follow, including using non synthetic oil. We know that to be wrong.

You point out that warm oil pours easier than cold. While this is true, it doesn't make any difference. Cold oil pours just fine. If it didn't, it would be difficult to refill your car with oil from a new "cold" container. I have never heard anyone recommend that you warm up a new container of oil before pouring it in the engine. Of course, maybe you can find "some dude that posts on the internet" that does recommend it

 

You guys are incorrigible.

All of the books I have read recommend changing the oil when it is warm.
It makes perfectly good sense.
The oil is less viscous when warm and it will drain out easier/faster.
Oil that flows faster is more likely to carry with it any sediments/contaminants.
Therefore, it is best to change the oil when it is warm.

Can you change the oil when it is cold? Of course, you can. Is it better than changing it when it is warm? Most likely not.

 

There are 2 main reasons I prefer to do the change when cold.

1. Heat. Hot or warm engines mean hot engine parts. This means that there is a possibility of getting burned. For that reason, it is obviously safer to work on a cold engine. It is also easier to work on a cold engine. You don't have to be careful about touching any hot surfaces. In addition, it is a lot more comfortable working in a cool environment, under a cold engine.

2. Mess. There is less mess when removing an empty oil filter. No dripping on difficult to reach engine parts. Quite simply, its a cleaner process.

Regarding settling of particles, I dont' consider that to be a valid arguement. Particles are going to settle to the bottom of the pan unless you instantly drain the oil the second you shut off the car. No one does that. Even if you did, you will still have all the stuff in the oil coolers.

Regarding speed of draining: Who cares!! What difference does it make if it takes one minute longer to drain oil from a cold engine. Its not a valid arguement.

I suspect that many of you "warm oil changers" have never tried a cold oil change. You should try it once. You may wind up agreeing with me .

 

I was all set to change my own oil but this thread doesn't have any pics. Now I'm not sure if I'd do it right...

Don't think you're so much better than us just because you know what that word means

 

You guys realize you're at each other's throats about something that's really inconsequential and up to personal discretion, right?. Change your oil any way you want to.. hot, cold, level, raised, upside down, inside out, just CHANGE IT lol. And even at that point, it's not THAT important - I have yet to see a SINGLE case of premature engine failure from bad oil on a rotary. We have bigger problems to worry about - like the seals that'll break whether you use 22-cent Walmart oil or $7 Mobil-1 Ultra-Synthetic

 

I don't see how this thread got so spun off.

I change the oil cold - first, it's usually somewhat diluted with fuel and runs a lot quicker than normal cold oil. Second, it's usually not real cold anyway since I moved the car into the garage to do it or didn't wait all night for the block to cool. Third, the car traps a lot of oil in the coolers and lines - in my case, two coolers. So small improvements in how the oil drains are still negligible compared to the amount of oil and dirt that can't be changed out. So it boils down to the fact that hot or cold, it's all the same. Particulates in the oil are designed to collect in the oil pan - hence the baffling. The stuff that's not in the oil pan wasn't coming out anyway.

Ever poured hot oil from your drain pan vs cold? Both leave nearly all the sediment in the pan even if you swish it around. It settles in seconds, hot or cold. The finer particles which stay in suspension are going to get caught by the oil filter, not drained out.

As far as the original poster goes, again thanks for taking the time to write up your procedure. I don't understand people criticizing it (making suggestions is one thing - they were criticizing to sound smart) - seeing as he titled it "How I change motor oil". Nothing pretentious about that.

Dave

 

No one is at the other's throats. Just discussing the issue.
Mobil one is $4.99 at Napa.

Incorrigible: Definition; Incorrectly made porridge that is inedible.

 

Hm. Define impeachment

 

I can't believe theres 5 pages on how to change motor oil. I guess this must be the "all encompassing and comprehensive thr ead on changing oil".

 

Impeachment: Definition; The often difficult task of separating the meaning of what each "imp" meant to communicate when more than one of them speaks at the same time.

Am I off topic

 

I usually jack the car, drop the subframe and remove the oil pan when I change the oil. Gives me a chance to really clean out any particles that might otherwise be left in the engine by doing it the "conventional" way.

 

I'm a little disappointed. None of the "I suck it out the dipstick tube" folks joined the thread!

 

I pressurize my crankcase with shop air and then I pull the plug. man the oil just comes shootin out of there. a bag of floor dry cleans up the mess and what oil makes it in the catch pan I dump out behind the garage down the mole holes in my yard. Keeps the moles away... Kind of like recycling.....

Other uses for old motor oil include a nice rust preventative for my disc brakes. Just put some in an old dawn dishsoap bottle and squirt on on there after driving in the rain.The next day ....no rusty discs!!!





Sorry..... That was really dumb....

 

im about 22min in doing my oilchange including jacking the car up i have gotten alot beter at it use to take me almost an hr

 

For all of those so critical of rx76k's post, you should pick up a copy of Daniel Goleman's book titled EMOTIONAL INTELLIGENCE.

 

You are so right Mr. Stock. What's amazing is that when someone is caught with their pants down on such a basic service procedure they keep trying to argue the point rather than shutting up. Wounded pride, I suppose. But it only works to further emphasize their ignorance.

 

There you go again, agreeing with what "some guy on the internet" posts . I have made my point, and you have chosen to dispute it. I'm OK with that. I have tried both methods for changing oil, and made my decision. I suspect that you are too closed minded to even try my way. I'm OK with that too.

BTW, If I were to be caught with my pants down, I wouldn't be embarrassed

 

LOL! Keep digging. You should be halfway to China by now.

 

some people just has to be right even when they are wrong.

the purpose of an oil change is to change the oil. who cares how you do it as long as it gets changed. get over it.