lead_foot

Hey guys, I just bought a 94 rx7 r2 model with 76k original mile on it. It still has the original motor on it and rebuilt turbos.(so the seller says) I have been reading all of the threads about the reliabilty mods, which is what I want to focus on before worrying about 1/4 mile or 0-60, but it seems that everyone has different suggestions.(e.g boost timer or not)

So I was wondering what mods I should get first with the price I could get them for. I have got about 3K to 3.5K to spend.

I am also new to rotary engines and I have been trying to teach myself about the motor and how everything works. I love cars and I would love to understand how EVERYTHING works. I understand most of the basics (original precat holds alot of heat which is why you exchange it for a downpipe), but if you could tell me what each part does and how it plays a role in it, that would be great. THANKS

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Before you do reliability mods you need to do maintenance items:
- replace FPD, perform fuel line recall (if applicable)
- replace all coolant hoses
- replace rad and AST caps
- replace plugs/plug wires
- replace fuel filter
- replace coolant, tranny oil, diff oil, engine oil.
- replace worn pillow *****, suspension bushings, and motor mounts (if they are bad)
Use OEM replacements for these parts only.

Then reliability mods: (prices do NOT include labor)
- downpipe ($75-250): keeps less heat in engine bay, not going to clog and stuff your boost
- AST replacement ($60-150): won't crack and dump coolant. Dumped coolant gives you only seconds to notice the problem and cut the engien before it overheats.
- thermoswitch swap ($40): kicks on fans earlier to lower overall engine temps
- boost gauge: ($50-250): tells you if your car is pushing normal boost, and tells you if a bolt-on mod has created too much boost
- aluminum radiator ($200-500): no plastic to crack and dump coolant, greater thermal performance
- vacuum hose job: ($125-500): replaces brittle stock vacuum hoses with better material that is less likely to break or pop loose. Also test and replace solenoids and check valves as needed.

Those are some of the big ones. The reliability mods section of www.fd3s.net is quite good. I suggest you skip the turbo timer completely, and simply avoid boosting in the first 5min and last 2min of every drive. Since your engine has 76k, it's probably not going to go for much longer. Get a compression test to see how 'close' it is, and maybe perform some of the more labor-intensive work when the engine is being pulled/rebuilt.

Dave

lead_foot

what does the compression test have to say when I need to get it rebuilt? Also, what is better, to get it rebuilt or to get a complete new engine? What are the pros and cons for each one? Cause I figured, I might jsut go ahead and rebuild/replace the engine before I put all the new parts on it. what do you think?

seanbrowning

Well the mods he listed really wouldn't have any effect on the motor. They are all out of the way and things that need to be done regardless. Now if you're talking bout performance mods, then hey, its up to you. If you have the money, go for it.

DMoneyRX-7

iTrader: (2)

All those things are good to do if they havn't been done already. Now if you want to go the performance route then you should definately get a Power FC, Downpipe, Cat-back, well actually all the bolt ons. The Power FC opens up the car for alot of other performance mods so you can tune the fuel accordingly.

lead_foot

How does the FC work? I know the basics of it (the engine needs more fuel with certain mods) Why does it need to be changed when performance mods are put in? If there is a thread, please point me in that direction. thanks

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I think your next step is to learn about FDs from the FAQ.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?p=68640

After going thru the faq questions, I think the thread under A : Advice will be very helpful.

Basically, modding this car is about 3 things: airflow, fuel supply, and injector control. If any of the 3 is insufficient for your setup, you will blow your engine very quickly. Bolt-ons and boost level affect airflow, fuel pump/injectors/etc affect your fuel supply, and the ECU (stock, re-programmed, or a fully programmable like the PowerFC) does the injector control.

Dave