$100.00 if you can figure this out...
#78
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by rx7r3
Everybody agree???
Everybody agree???
#79
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
I don't want your $100 by the way.. you can just send me a set of 4 BUR9EQP spark plugs (perferably new in the box).. ******* are like $22 ea over here and only about $7 each in the states..
#80
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No smoke at all, could it be bad primary injectors?
Seems like its hitting fuel cut, like the turbos engaging too early.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll try them asap! Rob.
Seems like its hitting fuel cut, like the turbos engaging too early.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll try them asap! Rob.
#81
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by rx7r3
No smoke at all, could it be bad primary injectors?
Seems like its hitting fuel cut, like the turbos engaging too early.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll try them asap! Rob.
No smoke at all, could it be bad primary injectors?
Seems like its hitting fuel cut, like the turbos engaging too early.
Thanks for the pointers, I'll try them asap! Rob.
#82
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What is your name? I love your ideas! I will try this tommorow(it,s midnight here).
Thank you very,very much! Rob.
PS: I am pretty sure we hooked all connectors up well. However one of the 2ndary inj. was bad and the connector was full of fuel. We dried them. Could the gasoline damage the connectors?...
Thank you very,very much! Rob.
PS: I am pretty sure we hooked all connectors up well. However one of the 2ndary inj. was bad and the connector was full of fuel. We dried them. Could the gasoline damage the connectors?...
#83
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by rx7r3
What is your name? I love your ideas! I will try this tommorow(it,s midnight here).
Thank you very,very much! Rob.
PS: I am pretty sure we hooked all connectors up well. However one of the 2ndary inj. was bad and the connector was full of fuel. We dried them. Could the gasoline damage the connectors?...
What is your name? I love your ideas! I will try this tommorow(it,s midnight here).
Thank you very,very much! Rob.
PS: I am pretty sure we hooked all connectors up well. However one of the 2ndary inj. was bad and the connector was full of fuel. We dried them. Could the gasoline damage the connectors?...
I doubt that gas would damage the connector, but it may have left residue or somthing on the connector terminals if it sat there for a long time... try to see if you can find somthing small to get in there and clean up the connector terminals and make sure they are dry.. If they do have some oil/gas/crap in them you can get a can of brake cleaner and spray them to get out any oil or other crap. Then just give them a few min. to dry you should be good.
Since it's not coughing raw fuel out of the exaust it pretty much eliminates the MAP sensor, Catilizer and the whole ignition system.. any of them would cause it to smoke and smell like fuel from incomplete combustion..
So basicly it almost has to be in the fuel system so here are two other things it could be.. Your Fuel pressure regulator may be junk and not keeping the fuel pressure up where it should be, you can take a vicescrips and lock it on the return line to test this. Don't pinch it all the way closed though, pinch it just enough to almost seal the line off and force the Fuel pressure to go up then test drive the car and see if it runs better.. One other thing it could be is that the fuel lines are reversed.. If you swapped the fuel in line and the return line it will do exactly what you are descibing as well...
let us know what you find out...
#84
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Originally posted by Dragon
also pull the plugs and look at them, if there is a color diffrence between the front and rear rotor plugs there is a good chance one of the primary injectors are bad..
also pull the plugs and look at them, if there is a color diffrence between the front and rear rotor plugs there is a good chance one of the primary injectors are bad..
I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.
The pump relay and especially the fuel line order is a good idea.
I'm under the impression that your compression test you had done was probably done wrong cause the numbers dont look right and there are too many numbers. I think there is just a problem with the engine installation. Like Dragon said, check the fuel line and make sure they are correct. There are 3 lines that connect right under the elbow, that is most likely where it would be messed up. Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.
Check for tightness and gaskets on the upper and lower intake manifolds. It could be that they forgot one. Your vacume is low so it sounds like your leaking somewhere.
I would imagine you going to find a few things wrong and not just one thing causing all this....eventhough anything is possible!!!! lol
STEPHEN
#85
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Originally posted by Dragon
also pull the plugs and look at them, if there is a color diffrence between the front and rear rotor plugs there is a good chance one of the primary injectors are bad..
also pull the plugs and look at them, if there is a color diffrence between the front and rear rotor plugs there is a good chance one of the primary injectors are bad..
I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.
The pump relay and especially the fuel line order is a good idea.
I'm under the impression that your compression test you had done was probably done wrong cause the numbers dont look right and there are too many numbers. I think there is just a problem with the engine installation. Like Dragon said, check the fuel line and make sure they are correct. There are 3 lines that connect right under the elbow, that is most likely where it would be messed up. Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.
Check for tightness and gaskets on the upper and lower intake manifolds. It could be that they forgot one. Your vacume is low so it sounds like your leaking somewhere.
I would imagine you going to find a few things wrong and not just one thing causing all this....eventhough anything is possible!!!! lol
STEPHEN
#86
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by SPOautos
I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.
Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.
STEPHEN
I dont see how looking at the front and rear plugs is going to tell anything about pri injectors. They both get fuel from pri injectors. It might tell you if one set (one pri and one sec) of inj is bad but it wont tell you anything about pri only.
Like I had said on the fist page, check the connections at the crank angle sensor to make sure they are not back wards, there are 2 of them.
STEPHEN
if the crank angle sensor wires/connectors are swaped the engine won't even try to start and the fuel pump won't come on so it's definitly not the crank angle sensor plugs swapped, but just in case you want to check them the white plug should be on the top sensor and grey plug goes on the lower mounted one..
#88
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
lol.. I'm assuming you fixed it and your having so much fun driving it that you havn't had time to check the forum OR your woman's got you locked up.. Whipish!! Whipish!! :P
Anyway if you've figured it out let us know what it was so we can inform the next guy with the same problem...
Vrooom Vrooomm or Whipish!! Whipish!!??
Anyway if you've figured it out let us know what it was so we can inform the next guy with the same problem...
Vrooom Vrooomm or Whipish!! Whipish!!??
#89
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Originally posted by Dragon
lol.. I'm assuming you fixed it and your having so much fun driving it that you havn't had time to check the forum OR your woman's got you locked up.. Whipish!! Whipish!! :P
Anyway if you've figured it out let us know what it was so we can inform the next guy with the same problem...
Vrooom Vrooomm or Whipish!! Whipish!!??
lol.. I'm assuming you fixed it and your having so much fun driving it that you havn't had time to check the forum OR your woman's got you locked up.. Whipish!! Whipish!! :P
Anyway if you've figured it out let us know what it was so we can inform the next guy with the same problem...
Vrooom Vrooomm or Whipish!! Whipish!!??
#90
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I'm no FD expert but my cousin had a 3000gt that had similar problems. He thought be bent a valve cause he beats the **** out of it. But he took it in and it was a fried ECU (i guess a common problem on those cars, yeah i know mitsubishi). Probably unlikely and i dont know how to tell for sure if thats it but its worth a shot
#91
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Originally posted by johnchabin
AND we can get him his $100.00...
AND we can get him his $100.00...
#92
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still runs crappy...
Sorry I havn't replied back in a while. I was out of town on a 7 day golf tour. Anyhow monday we are going to resume working on it. Still runs the same at this time!
Thanks for the help,I will apply the last few ideas and let u know the results! Rob.
Thanks for the help,I will apply the last few ideas and let u know the results! Rob.
#93
20B N/A Wide Body FC3S
Re: still runs crappy...
Originally posted by rx7r3
Sorry I havn't replied back in a while. I was out of town on a 7 day golf tour. Anyhow monday we are going to resume working on it. Still runs the same at this time!
Thanks for the help,I will apply the last few ideas and let u know the results! Rob.
Sorry I havn't replied back in a while. I was out of town on a 7 day golf tour. Anyhow monday we are going to resume working on it. Still runs the same at this time!
Thanks for the help,I will apply the last few ideas and let u know the results! Rob.
Last edited by Dragon; 08-31-02 at 11:10 PM.
#94
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Hey I hear ya man...but I actually needed a break. Sorry I had no forum contact but i'm ready to go again!
Hey fishin important too...LOL!!! Mama's jus sick,she'll get better. She ain't dead yet. Surgery begins Monday!
Thanks, Rob.
Hey fishin important too...LOL!!! Mama's jus sick,she'll get better. She ain't dead yet. Surgery begins Monday!
Thanks, Rob.
#95
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94 rx7 a/t idles good, but will not accelerate past 15 mph. Compression test done by a dealer averaged 4-5 per cyl. I know this is low compression, but shouldn't the car still go more than 15 mph? Tried my friends power apexi fc and we got it past 2000 rpms for the first time. He said he adjusted the fuel down to dump less fuel in and it revved up better. He doesn't know much about the power fc and said he thinks the engine is shot. But the car does not smoke or idle bad. So w
hat do you fellow rotor heads think??
Thanks Rob.
p.s. Another mechanic said the compression sounds good to him and that some times madza dealers make mistakes about compression test. He feels like it is probably a bad ecu, but a/t ecus are hard to come by
hat do you fellow rotor heads think??
Thanks Rob.
p.s. Another mechanic said the compression sounds good to him and that some times madza dealers make mistakes about compression test. He feels like it is probably a bad ecu, but a/t ecus are hard to come by
#96
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Hey , could I have a bad oil metering pump? I'm the guy who offered 100 to the one who could figure out why my car would not accelerate! Another mechanic looked at it yesterday and said he thought the error code came up as a bad oil met. pump. Would that be a proper malfunction, and make the car limp and low compression? And would you happen to have this part used?
Thanks, Rob.
PS:My computer is at Sony getting repaired and will be back in a couple of days. So if I don't get back right away it's because I have to use someone elses computer!-
Thanks, Rob.
PS:My computer is at Sony getting repaired and will be back in a couple of days. So if I don't get back right away it's because I have to use someone elses computer!-
#97
Ex fd *****
Yes a BAD OMP will cause the ECU to go into LIMP mode and even if you reset the ECU it won't help untill you fix or bypass the OMP with the proper resistor (check the fsm) because the ECU Checks the OMP at Key on and will go right back into LIMP mode if the OMP is bad. If you do bypass the OMP be sure to PREMIX OIL in the GAS before starting it.
Last edited by maxpesce; 09-23-02 at 12:09 PM.
#98
Tequila? ..it's like beer
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Did this car sit for a long time before you got it? From the symptoms you describe, a tank of bad gas will do just about the same thing.. it'll fire up and idle, but if you ask anything more from the engine, it'll just cough, pop and die.. I went through this with a v-dub engine I built and had sitting in a project car for a while.. couldn't figure out the problem for the life of me. After plugs, wires, rebuilding carbs, distributor swap.. it was the gas.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.