I'm sure that my intake temps don't rise 30 degrees between me shutting it down and starting it up 15min later because the frozen pavement is below my intercooler.

 

Here's mine. Not nearly as nice as kinetiks but I did fab everything myself.

 

I love the fab work you did but this pix (and all the other VMIC) scares the bejebus out of me. Having that stuff dangle below the sway bar!

 

I will be making a run of them very shortly. What injectors are you going to be running.

Give me a PM so we don't derail this thread, There is alot of good info comming out of it. i wish ther was one like this when I was making mine.

 

Sorry for beeing a dum *** here but i always tough that v-mounts were always designed for less I/C pipeing (better responce) and cooling is more focused on the radiator ,Yet i read here that people`s first intention is for the I/C to get more air , in that case wouldn`t a plain `ol simple front mount do a better job?
I also noticed that while some v-mount setups do have shorter I/C pipeing the have crazy bends that seems to me overide the whole idea of shorter pipeing
BTW kinetik youre setup looks by far the best i have seen , altough i am no big fan of my fans and wiring running so low to the ground though , but your`e setup seems to give equal amounts of air to both radiator and I/C ....nice

 

if you want to risk overheading your car then yes go for the FMIC...if you want air to actually hit your radiator then go with a V-mount or a SMIC. Oh and when you spell Dumb, dum you sound dumb.

 

Here's mine:

 

....hhhmmm, funny when sombody asks a question some smart-*** jumps out, says someting stupid ,then makes a remark about someones spelling
Even though i learned a lot from the rotary , and the long years i have worked on RX-7`s you can always learn something new everyday , i was asking because never had a v-mount , and want to know the real benefits as i dont see it from these pictures , ..........so sorry for asking questions!

Bye the way , may car has a 3-rotor with a front mount intercooler , where i live there is no such thing as winter or cold temperatures , my car has never ever overheated and my A/C blows real cold air also .......and i have also seen alot of guys on the forum with front mounts that dont have problems with over heating , but then again what do i know , i am just a DUM *** anyways

 

Hey can you guys share how you mounted your radiators and how the inlet/outlets to the radiator go?

The radiator is the hardest thing to accomodate compared to the intercooler. Thanks.

 

aoc007, your V-mount looks nice with all the options Chuck had to offer haha.

anyway, felix is alive.....learn how to spell bloke, and your sentences don't make any sense. Thats all I've got to say buddy....by the way it's not "bye" it's by


Most people modify the radiator end tanks to make plumbing easier as pictured below. This is a picture of my radiator which is from Rotary Extremes V-mount. It is semi difficult to get the end tanks modified on the radiator.


Thanks BYE,
Dan

 

When I did mine, I mounted the radiator so I can fit the undertray.

 

atihun, You surely snuck that radiator right up under that bumper lip didn't you. Did you have to modify the undertray for the radiator to fit? Also where did you attach the mounts to hold the rad?

-Dan

 

Wow. nice. I haven't read every post in this thread, but it looks like you took a totally new approach to the ducting. Do you have a vented hood or anything?

 

Yes I did have to modify the undertray, but more for the oil cooler lines I ran. On the drivers side I had to cut off one of the pieces that goes up to the frame but I made a different bracket that relocated it. Overall the tray was in the exact same position as stock.

The reason the radiator looks like it fits in the lip is that I put the radiator further back and used the stock pieces that hold the old cross brace. I just cut the ends off so that the radiator would fit in between them. The radiator doesn't even touch the bumper, it sits about 2 inches behind the opening. I put two pieces of aluminum to fully close the gap.





Also you can see the bracket I made to hold the IC in place.

 

Here's some pics of the undertray, as you can see there was a little bit of cutting, but the rigidity was not affected, so there is still a good bit of protection.







I don't know when I'll be doing one of our hoods...

Here's my cold air duct , airflow from the front that doesn't make it into the duct is directed straight to the filter:

 

that look very very nice. The only problem is most people won't want to modify (cut off) those brackets that hold the cross brace on, otherwise I'd be making something similar. Did you do all of the welding, aluminum fabrication? Very well constructed I must say you have a little skill

 

Thanks! I didn't cut the brackets all the way off, just about 1 inch width on each side. The rest is there. I used the little L brackets that were on the front on the stock mounting, and the holes lined up almost exactly with the holes on those brackets.

I did most of the welding and all the fab work. I had to get someone to do the piping with a tig as it was too thin and all I was doing was melting it.

Taking the time really makes the difference.

 

[QUOTE=KINETIK_FD3S]^ so how much hp are we loosing with our "total crap IC pipe angle" or show us the results to your engineering test documentation.

ducting behind the radiator is almost impossible and there is no need for it i have zero issues with my water temp.


QUOTE]


umm does the undertray fit or you have to get rid of it?

 

Thanks Atihun for that pic! The mounting location you used for the rad seemed like the most logical place but I thought that the inlet would hit that part on the frame.

Thanks Dan for the pic also.

Question for you both - I suppose the bottom rad hose is a U shape going 180 degrees?

 

The stock bottom hose comes out and angles 90 degrees, but on both of our kits it has been relocated.
On Atihuns car the pipe comes out the drivers side and angles toward the engine and upwards. On mine the inlet and outlet pipes are on the top of the core.

-Dan

Edit: if you look in the picture i posted you can see both pipes if you look closely.

 

I'm utilizing the undertray, I will be making my own ducting with proper sealing and I plan on modifying the stock hood for proper ducting of the IC. Were it's actually creates a low pressure zone to create suction instead of a gapping hole that shows the IC in full view with not idael aero benefits.

 

Did you buy that car from Chris in Vallejo?

 

Kinetik,

Your setup considering ducting is an example for all of us. But I'm talking about the tubing from turbo to Ic and IC to intake manifold.

The tubings come in and go out of the endtanks in a 90° angle. This will first of all implicated air to bounce back off the back wall of the end tanks and will implicate an internal air swirling whcih will mean that air will not be spread over the complete IC core.

My best friend has a company building custom, high end IC's and radiators for race cars. We did several simulations of air fluw and fluid dynamics to see whats best.

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...hmentid=221985

This would be a better attempt to enhance this.

Or like this

http://wwwrsphysse.anu.edu.au/~amh11...ntercooler.htm

Mostly this kind of endtanks are not offered because these are made ou of moulds and thus more expensive. Nonetheless there is a significant improvement in air flow and optimal use of the IC core (not 100% even with good endtanks).

I can show you some fluid dynamic tests on IC's with heat sections etc.
But I guess you get my point.

All I want to say is that all of these high priced V-mount kits are a bit overrated when it comes to performance. They help, but not like they shoud have,could have,would have

 

s-thetikz - thanks, post some pics up when you finish.

HedgeHog - i pulled up that coolant hose and wiring after that pic but there is no problems with the height of the rad/fans.

oorx7 - sounds good, ill pm you shortly.

felix_is_alive - lol i know i pulled those up since.

gracer7-rx7 - sorry, i read the pm but forgot to reply, check your Pm's, also check the link i posted in the first page for pics of my radiator mounts and outlets, I'm doing another v-mount radiator soon so ill make sure to take lots of pics

FD3S2005 - that thing is M I A, i never tried to fit it back on.

Speedworks - i understand what you are saying but what i'm telling you is that its not going to make that much difference, you make it sound like IC pipes at a 90 angle are going to cause a 30hp drop.

 

So is there someone currently making a rad for v-mount setups? If so what are the total costs involved for the modification/rad.