okay few more questions..

radiator.. how much should i be looking to pay to relocate the end tanks? exactly what is done? cut the botton outlet and weld shut then a new end tank is made at the top? (sorry i dont understand the flow of the radiator..)

how do u guys extend the wiring for the rad fans?

where do you relocate the front fuse box to?'

thats it for now =)

 

come on man, your first question is decent, the second one i'll pretend was never asked...and the third one is kinda preference. I've seen v mounts where people completely relocate the front box and others where they simply turn it sideways and put it right under the cross member.

 

alright your post was comepletely pointless.

1 sorry i dont know how much welding cost. some guy quoted me 60 for a bung, so obviously i know someones gonna try and over charge me. sorry i want to know what to expect so i dont get ripped off.

2 ive seen in pictures wires that looked like rad fan extensions with both ends having connectors thus a plug and play part. obviously it can be cut and spliced but does every aftermarket kit really expect you to cut and rewire your fan? id hope not so i wanted to know how its done.

3 its not visible in the picture. obviously i know u can just relocate it i just want to know where people relocated since its nearly impossible to find in the pictures.

 

I had it priced out at a local radiator shop awhile ago and it wasn't going to be too bad. With the cost of a Koyo (don't get the N-Flow, you only want a 2-pass radiator) it was going to be cheaper than most of the shops charge to convert it. I want to say ~$500 give or take but it's been a little while. I never got a custom radiator priced out but that is also a possibility. You're best bet will be to go hit up somewhere local and just check with them, or if you don't want to mess with that I believe most of the shops are charging $800 for converted koyos. You have the basic idea down, they just remove the outlet, weld that hole up, then weld on a new outlet on the other end.

I got lucky, with my KS kit the guy included what was claimed to be an extended harness. It looked SUPER hacked to me and I wasn't sure it would even work, so I just used the connectors that it came with and extended the harness myself. So mine is plug-n-play without having to hack up the stock harness, but all you would need to do without having extra connectors laying around would be splice in longer wires onto the existing fan harness, it's really easy.

My fuse block is in basically the same spot, I'm not super happy with how it is set up but it works and I probably won't mess with it. I flipped it around, put a couple self tappers into the front rail, and tucked it out of the way of the IC. It really doesn't block much flow and you can't see it unless you get down on the ground and look up at the IC, but eventually I would like to relocate it somewhere else.

 

beautiful setup

 

Can someone post pics of an Apexi FMIC converted to a V-Mount?

 

I've been VERY inspirated by Jeroentje
(work in progress... the IC is in place but I need to got back my modified rad)

 

That is the stock you are modifying correct? Any chance you could share some underside pics?

 

Here mine, the rx7 store variety.

 

Hey Guys,

My car is currently at JRX Rotary (www.jrxrotary.com) doing a custom v mount with the goal of full ducting. They are custom making an aluminum ducting setup and we will be responsible for doing a drop vented duct made to attach to our FEED style hood. Vent exits will still be toward the rear as opposed to the center of the hood. I'm not a fan of large drop vented openings for street FD's, so hopefully it turns out well. If it works out and you guys like it, perhaps JRX and Shine might be able to put together a full v-mount solution from top to bottom. I am retaining my AC as well, so hopefully my setup will be a decent example of what can be done.




I'm using an HKS S-Type Intercooler Core, which measures roughly 24x12x2.5 inches. The core was modified by JRX for a v-mount style piping. I chose this particular core because the end tanks were slim and curvy (casted), which allowed for better flow through each of the rows and also allowed for more "core" surface area as opposed to end tank surface area. The width was ideal as it lined up well with my Ron Davis radiator (stock type), which will allow for easier ducting between the cores. My Ron Davis radiator is a stock type, which had to be modified a bit by JRX. If you can order a V mount type radiator from Ron Davis, that would make life easier, but I believe it was a 3 week wait (when i inquired.) Their radiators are crafted very well and I am very happy with it. Light weight and looks good.

I went custom because I wanted to choose the intercooler core and radiator. I'm running 99 twins and wanted a slimmer core and shorter piping for faster response. JRX modified my y pipe because it has fitting issues with the Xcessive Lower Intake Manifold. If anyone of you is considering the Xcessive LIM for even runner flow and plan on sticking with twins.. pay attention to the y pipe modification. I am ditching the extended arm and doing a shorter pipe from y-pipe to IC.

One thing Speedworks slightly hinted upon is end tank/piping placement for optimal efficiency. I've read on other forums and have also seen a few japanese setups where the enter and exit IC pipings are on "opposite" ends. Example: If "enter" piping is on lower end of end tank, then 'exit' piping should be on upper end of end tank. They believe this will force the air through most of the rows of the IC core as opposed to a limited section of it. I would like to hear Speedworks' take on this. This is one of the reasons I chose a slim , curved end tanks... to channel the air more efficiently.

More progress pics to come!

Ken

 

I plan on having some aluminum ducting placed around the perimeter of the IC core, but I have to wait for my piping to complete as they will be above the IC core (as with most v mounts) and we will need to accomodate for them.

Then we will build a drop vent attachment to our FEED style hood and it will mate up with the aluminum ducting on the IC when hood is closed. The hood ducting will look similar to this , but will extend all the way to the rear (because the Feed hood has rear vents) and less depth as it will be mating up with aluminum ducting placed on the intercooler.




Since our later feed style hoods did not have a skeleton, our customers with those hoods should be able to purchase the drop vent have a shop bond it to our hoods if any customer wishes to do so.

Also.. for those running after market bumpers with larger than oem center openings, you are probably considering lowering the radiator position. Most Japanese v mount kits are probably built for the oem bumpers, so the radiator sits kinda high. That's another reason I went custom. If you are going with a lower radiator, it would be a good idea to go with thinner aftermarket fans.

 

My RE Track V-mount. Ben's customer service was impeccable!!

 

Woah, I'm sorry about that, s1mpsons.

Woeep, thanks for the correction. Your FD is amazing.

 

Almost there...

 

I love it when you can see the welds on the piping!

 

Bump for more pics pls

 

 

 

https://www.facebook.com/Rotormotor7

still in progress needs some extra ducting

 

what are some V mount options out there other than Greddy and Rotary-Works that are still available to buy?

 

You can support a vendor here:

https://www.rx7club.com/group-buy-ce.../#post12133482


I'm running a Rotary Extreme Vmount setup that is need of cleaning & polishing:

 

ive been following this thread for years and years just waiting for the opportunity to be able to share my own set up and that day is now....

its a greddy front mount being used for a v mount. if you cut the tabs off the end and invert the fuse box, the intercooler slides right in as if this is what it was meant for. no other modifications needed. youll need to make your piping from scratch though. i also need to put my fuse box back in its stock location. where it WAS mounted is no longer available...