might as well get a flywheel (and clutch??) while you're in there

just a thought BEST OF LUCK TO YOU!

 

Upitty date: So as I feared, the new 1-2 switch did nothing to fix the problem. The switch was indeed not giving continuity through the entire range of the 2nd gear position (you push the switch in a bit and get the cut for the 1st position, then the switch gets a little harder to push in, that's the 2nd position close), and now it works fine. For those of you who don't know, the switch is the 4 wire one on the pass side of the tranny, just above the speedo sensor, which is itself just above the frontmost bolted-on cross brace. Anyway, it's a 15/16" wrench, or 24mm (they're the same), but you need to remove the cross brace, remove the bolt on the speedo sensor and swing the sensor mount tab down, and probably bend back the heat shield for the cat as well. All that, and no better.

So I got smart-ish and tested both the neutral switch and clutch switch connections at the ECU. Turns out the neutral switch is flakey at best, giving intermittant contact in neutral, mostly only with the shifter just about to go into 1st. The clutch switch doesn't switch anymore, just sits and does nothing. Oh. So a new one of each are on the way, and from what I've read on this forum, the clutch switch failing can be the cause of many an idle problem.

Last issue: anyone have ANY idea how to remove the neutral switch withOUT removing the transmission from the car? The switch is right at the top of the tranny, just in front of the plate that is in front of the shifter mount. I can get a crow foot on it, but I can't turn it as it binds up against the body of the tranny. Anyone worked this one out yet? I think I'll try grinding some clearance on the crow foot, but I'm not sure this'll get me anywhere.

Kinda wierd that ALL of the tranny related signals to the ECU have failed. I'm REAL sure these will be the last sensor failures I evar have...

 

Spurvo,

Not long ago, I saw a post showing some tools. There was a set of Craftsman wratcheting end wrenches. I thought that would be a pretty nice item to have. I don't know if that tool would help you, but I thought I would mention it.

 

I'm still with buddy!

Man that really stinks that you've replaced some failed switches and still nothing has improved.

the wratcheting end wrenches that Adam mentioned are really nice to work with...again I have no idea if these will help you???

check out my wiring project...

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...0&#entry554955

I'm going to need to tap that speed sensor you talk so fondly of...

**couple pics if you scroll up.

 

Have you checked the clutch switch? I know it can cause various idle flakiness.

Dale

 

dc, you bet! Dead as my.. well.. we won't go there Anyway, a new clutch switch is on its way, so hopefully that will cure some of the ills.

The neutral switch is right at the top of the tranny. I wonder if there's room to get the ratchet box end in there? Hmmm.. I'll get a 15/16 (if Sears has one) and give it a whirl. Thanks guys!! I'll be sure to let 'yall know!

Dubs, ya maniac! Rewire for different ecu?

 

 

Cool deal - I had a buddy whose FD had a bad clutch switch, cause some SERIOUS weirdness with the idle. Seems like it wouldn't be such an important input, but I think the computer flips out when it's not there. Go figure.

Dale

 

upidaytimus...

Well, YAY for me! Clutch switch solved the problem about 98%. Put the new $9.75 switch in, and the idle fluctuations with the electrical load were almost completely gone. There was a little hunt left though, so I got creative.

I went to Sears, got a 3/8 drive 15/16" deep well socket. Went after it with a dremmel and cutting wheels (two screwed onto the end). I cut one of the sides off of the socket, basically along the length of two of the "points" on the side. Went up about an inch, then made a cross cut. Any of you who've used one of these for O2 sensors know what I'm a talkin' about. So i went after the Neutral switch. The missing section went right over the wires, and the socket stuck out over the edge of the tranny just right to get a socket wrench on it. A nice firm tug later, and off came the switch. YAY! No dropping the tranny...

The old one had black goo along the sleeve for the ball, and sure enough, pushing the ball in only occaisonally gives continuity. Replaced it using the same tool. Very easy, very nice. 15 minutes tops.

I tested the connection (green with white wire on the lowest connector on the ECU) and sure enough, there is continuity every time I'm in neutral, none when I'm in gear. Yay some more (I might be happy here...).

Now the car purrs absolutely steady when putting it in gear with the lights on. Unflappable.

Oddly enough, fixing these switches has made the shifting and driving easier. I attribute this to the neutral switch not sticking anymore, and the clutch switch allowing the ECU to correctly allow the engine to decelerate into the next gear. MUCH easier to drive, less bucking and weird behavior between the gears.

So. Problem solved, all for less than $70.00. So, you guessed it... YAY for me!!!

Addendum: 15/16" is the same as 24mm, not 23mm, like I mistated above. Sorry 'bout that. The 1-2 switch and neutral switch (and the backup switch for that matter) are all 24mm, or 15/16".

 

That s great that you finally solved the problem, and the car is running like its supposed to. Maybe its time to upgrade that intake

Congrats

 

HAH! One step ahead of ya! Got it done last night. Not sure I like that wierd off note yet, but I think I'm liking the temp numbers I'm seeing at the mouth of the primary turbo. Runs ambient of the freeway now, which it didn't before, but I'll post all that in your thread, adam

Now it's on to the MONSTER axle hop during regular driving when the car is cold. I'm guessing bad diff mount bushings, maybe control rod (or whatever you call the longitudinal member!), and a not so nicely resurfaced flywheel from the reman. Sigh.... at least it idles

 

Please post your results on my thread. I am very curious to hear what happened.