hehehe, yeah, the hallman pro rx valves are a bit pricy, BUT...you can get 2 for teh price of an electronic and be able to control BOTH the wg and pre-control..... cant do that with an electronic.

 

You'll be adjusting it when the weather turns cold again.
Since I run my car in Tucson during the winter and spring with cold, (32F in the morning in January ) dry air turning to hot (100F in the afternoon in May) dry air, then in Colorado during the summer at 8,300 feet above sea level I will do a LOT of "tweaking" to keep things in check. Altitude, temperature and humidity still rule the boost scene.

I think the glove box mount is excellent, although I am looking at the center console behind the ashtry....hmmmm., hidden or in sight. Stock vs. bling.
Oh hell, I like stealth - glovebox it is.

I still like the high quality manual control better than electric - somehow seems more in keeping with the original Kansei concept of a "pure sports car".

 

I think I'm going to give it a shot with something drastically cheaper, but the same basic idea. Its not hard to find these things for less money...they just don't look as good, but they *should * work...my only question regards spring tension and ball weight, but we'll see...

jds

 

I still think if done *properly* an electronic unit should outperform the mechanical type. Its probably insignificant however, but the other features you can add to it would make it superior as well. If I felt like paying $500 for boost control, I'd have the Blitz SBC-iD already....but there are a lot of things I could buy for $500 that don't have a perfectly adequate solution available for $200 or even $100, so...

jds

 

You must have the ceramic *****, they are the key.

(and believe me I looked all OVER the place to come up with a less expensive solution...)

 

Really? I could have sworn people are using these things in some fashion without that. I wonder if I could get a cheaper controller and then replace the ball? Where does one buy ceramic ***** anyway :-)

jds

 

the lighter spring is really the key, since it allows for fine adjustment, starting right below stock boost level....and the ceramic ball supposedly give better reation time.

 

*cough*

 

hehehe

 

Just out of curiosity, I don't suppose you tried using the stiffer spring that Hallman supplies with the controller? I'm still trying to be a cheap bastard :-)

jds

 

lol, nope, didnt try the heavy spring.....

 

Damian - lately your car has been turning into a monster, lots of hard work and good idea's coming outta you. I went to your site (top one) but it didn't load all the way (and I didn't wait very long), I'm interested in what kind-of power you're making...btw your car is pretty impressive (only thing I can see that it needs is the R1/R2 lip).





Are you the one rating your threads
even if you are, they deserve it, great write up.

Dub

 

where were you 5 days ago.. i have a box of ball spring boost controllers... This probably would have solved all my problems, sniff sniff. great write up

 

Damian: your hard work shows how devoted you are with your car... You're the "Best Owner of the Month"!! hehehe i like your professionalism in your write up... keep up the good work...

one question... did you take out the solenoid? or put resistor in it?? tanx

 

thanks cihuuy :-)
left solenoids in place and the electrical connection plugged in....

 

What all controllers did you try before staying with the Hallman? I was looking at it but I really want a screw or something so I can lock it down after I get done adjusting it. For some reason people have a tendancy to touch my valves when my hood is up and i want to lock them down.

Are there any similar manual controllers like the Hallman that have a simple turn **** but also with a way to lock it or screw it down or something like that? It would also need to have the capability of running 20psi of boost

BTW - good work with the write up

STEPHEN

 

Will bypassing the solenoinds change how the pfc operates or gets feedback from the now unused solenoids? I know they are being bypassed physically but not electrically.

Absolutely wonderful technical find...pfc is on the way and was wondering how it will work with the manual boost control installed vs the pfc boost control.

thanks

 

stephen, at http://www.boostcontroller.com look at the Joe P MBC XZ, it has a locking nut...

look here to see what boost you can run with them:
http://www.boostcontroller.com/chart.php

 

The same way you would if you had an EBC. Just raise the "target boost" values on the PFC to higher than you will be running (this will prevent the PFC from fuel-cutting). You can ignore the duty cycle values. The PFC will continue to read boost from the map sensor and run normal.

 

Thanks man!!! I noticed on thier site that the Hallman pro uses a steel ball and the Pro RX uses the ceramic. Which one do you have? You said it was $100 which would be the Pro cause the Pro RX is $115.

The reason I ask is I always heard teh ceramic ball was better but if your having good luck with the steel ball I'll prob get the JoeP controller. It also has a steel ball which at first I thought wasnt good till I saw yours might also be steel.

So which one do you have for sure? That joeP is a little ugly though isnt it lol

STEPHEN

 

thanks for the feedback rynberg!

 

I have the pro RX kit for both mine, for the lighter spring, the ceramic ball was secondary


..yeah, the other controlers are ugly next to the pro ones

 

Stephen, I got mine at www.boostvalve.com designed by Ric Gillis. The link didn't work when I just tried it, maybe it's down or maybe they're out of business. Anyway, they come with everything you need to mount them. It's pretty easy to adjust and has a locknut. I just put a black magic marker dot on the adjustment **** for orientation. I have mine mounted to the bracket located just in front of the passenger side strut tower. Tom

 

I would think that anyone running sequential upgraded twins would be interested in trying this setup.

 

updated pics of my final setup: