1st gen with 88 t2 harness complete 88 j spec turbo engine all relays connected and ecu hooked up turn key to acc position stereo and fan works, turn key to on trouble cluster comes on, turn key to start everything goes dead.

whats not connected is clutch sw, accel sw, horns, elec fan, washers, cruize control, cluster switch for lights, cluster sw for wipers, over head lights, no stock securty system, power stering computer, no aas.

is there anything I do not have connected that would cause this?

 

what happens when the key is set back to "run" after start? Lights come back on? Sounds like your clutch switch.

 

go to mazspeed.com there is a guy there that i know who knows everything and did a tii swap on his 1st gen so go post there and i bet you can find your answer

 

yea all the lights come back on. do I need a clutch switch or can I fool the ecu with a jumper or a toggle?

 

1SxyRXy been there no ansers someone here on 2nd gen should know, it all t2 electrical and engine.

 

maybe you should double check your wirering maybe your grounds. sounds like a relay problem to me or something not hooked up right

 

Check your starter interlock wire. That might keep the starter from engaging.

 

sounds like the ignition switch is wired wrong. Or a dead battery.

The clutch interlock would have nothing to do with the dash lights going out while cranking.

Remember people that are answering this post, it is a 1st gen car, not a FC. Bogus answers like the clutch interlock will not help this guy and will send him off wasting his time trying to find a non-existant problem.

Hell the SA/FB or even the 86 FC didn't even have a clutch interlock switch.

 

battery is good. rechecking the ignition switch to 88 t2 harness. Icemark it has the complete full 88 t2 harness all plugs tail lights to head lights engine harness, front, a/c, dash, rear. so with the exclusion wiring conectors to plug the lights and such in to the 88 harness it should be the same as if it was a 88 t2. would the clutch interlock(clutch sw) on a 88 t2 cause this? the relays are all the 88 ones. what are the common wiring issues with the s4 t2 harness?

 

IIRC, if you dont push the clutch in, and go to the "start position" everything goes out. then once you return to "run" everything comes back on. But I can verify this if you want.

I hardly think clutch interlock is a "bogus" answer.

 

J-rat does the clutch sw have any other functions beside being a safety at start up?

 

There are actually 2 clutch switches. One at the top of the travel (has something to do with the shift up light and some other functions), and the interlock switch. The interlock switch inhibits the starter only (per FSM, chaper 5, page 5-30). Where it goes into the ECU, or to the starter, I dont know. I need to look at the wiring diagram.

 

Ok so I wired a toggel sw in for the interlock switch and found a broken ground wire on the starter solenoid fixed that and now when turned to start trouble lights stay on radio goes off but nothing from the starter. main relay clicks like it should key is turned. batery is good engine is not locked. what could it be?

 

Miswired. Can't fix miswires. Trouble lights (idiot light cluster) should stay on until the alternator comes into play.

Try this. Turn the key to ON. Get your meter out. Check for 12v at the lead coils little white, two wire connector. You should have 12v on the yellow/black wire. Pay no attention to the other wire (only two wires). Got 12v???

Ok, then get under the car with it out of gear and jumper the small blade connector to the large connector(12v source) and see if the starter rotates. No rotation? Bad battery or total lack of a ground from the battery to the engine/transmission (normally located on the starters long attach bolt.)

If the starter rotated doing the above.....then there is a miswire b/t the small wire on the blade located on the solenoid......or your ignition sw is miswired.

I think rotating the key to START and the radio going off is a normal event. Not to worry. Worry about how there is no circuit b/t the ignition switch and the small wire on the blade on the solenoid when you go to START. On a second gen without a theft protection, there is a BLUE connector near the MAIN RELAY that has a jumper wire in it. That jumper wire must be there for the car to start(makes the start circuit from the ignition sw to the small wire on the blade on the starter solenoid).

 

I do not have a blue conector in near that location but I have a conector thats wraped in blue tape it has a black wire and a blue wire with orange stripe. could this be it? I did not see it wraped up before or on the diagram.

 

Blue tape is for to hold plugs that are for options not included with the car when built.

That could be for Cruise control (often dealer installed option).

 

if the car that the harness came out of had a security system would the plug for the jumper be blue? was there any 88 t2 that did not have cruise? so because there was a security system on the harness before I need to install a jumper?

 

88 T2 the only electrical options were for power steering and radio options.

 

I'll look tomorrow morning. I remember it being a blue connnector with a jumper wire in it. What the deal is, is, that cars without the theft protection would not have what I'll call a theft relay(forgot the real name),so instead of a relay being connected to the harness plug, they put a jumper in the plug. That is to make a circuit from the clutch pedal switch to the starter. I use this same plug myself to start the car while working under the hood or just to rotate the engine and not have to enter the cars interior. So I know this plug/jumper exists.

Personaly what I'd do first, is crawl under the car when it's out of gear, and jumper b/t the small blade connector on the starter solenoid and the large power wire on the solenoid. If the starter turns over, then find out why the circuit is open b/t the ignition switch and the small wire on the solenoid. By the way, that circuit uses the jumper mentioned above to make that same circuit. Yes. Jumper the starter at the starter to make sure that part works as it should...first.

Oh, I just looked at the diagram. The jumper should be jumpering a Black/green wire to a Black/white wire.

 

ok I have that relay pluged in do I need to remove it and jumper those wires or will the switch work with the relay installed with no theft control box? starter turns when jumpered. rechecking the fb ignition sw for the 200 + time. much thanks for the help so far. the only thing that seams to have not been on the car the harness came from was an abs system the only pugs with blue tape on them are the abs plugs

 

well I removed the relay, jumpered the black/green wire to the black/white wire turned the key and it turned over. so thanks for the help on this. anyone know if this relay is working correctly?

 

Oh. I just look at my car. The plug itself is black. But on cars without a theft protection unit, they have a BLUE mating connector that fits where the relay should be. That BLUE mating part has a single jumper wire in it that connects the black/green to the black/white wire.

There are four wires in that six hole plug. The jumper should go to the large BG and the BW.

No, if you are on the same plug as I descrive above, the relay is not working right. IF you have no theft unit in the car, then there should be no 12v on the LgY wire to pull the relay in. IF the relay is not pulled in, then the contacts b/t the BG and the BW should be made all the time 24hrs a day. See if you have 12v on the LgY wire. You should not if you don't have a theft unit. If you don't then the relay is bad. Ditch the relay and install a jumper b/t the BG and the BW wires permanetly.

Are we talking about the same plug???? Two black/green, one black/white and one light green/yellow??? Probably are since the starter turned over.

 

yes, thanks hailers for the help. now to wire up the boost controler and re work the harness for the light and wippers.

 

So was the interlock wiring part of the problem? Or was it a bogus suggestion?

 

the interlock was part of the problem. I fixed it with a toggel switch. it ended up being part 1 of a two part problem. the second part was the bad relay. so It should be running in the next couple of weeks. all that left is, I need to sort out the right & left cluster harness's for the lights and wipers to hook up to the fb stalk switches, finish my boost controller install, fcd, install turbo timer and a larger blow off valve. so I am close. I already have most of the standard mods done exhuast, intake, fmic, 720cc injectors, fuel supply, porting, flywheel, act clutch, gauges ect ..ect ... future mods are addional injectors and a e-manage to help run things after new paint.