89tracerman

ok on saturday i used 10-40 castrol GTX motor oil and have recently found out you are not suposed to use 10-40 or 10-50 what could happen? and should i change it again? and yes i do a lot of REDLINING

WAYNE88N/A

No biggie, just drain at your earliest convenience and fill with the 20-50...

89tracerman

is 10-30 to thin?

powrdby13B

so? 10-40 works...

WAYNE88N/A

What's "too thin"? It's all relative, like the speed of light and time, lol...

Too thin to provide adequate lubrication while redlining? Who knows. I think the Castrol 20-50 I use is too thin when I look at it on the dipstick, lol, but it's obviously doing what it was designed to do.

If you're losing sleep over it, take it easy on the car until you can put a slightly more (or less, however it works) viscous oil in her...

powrdby13B

20-50 is my oil of choice

89tracerman

i also have some 50 valvoline oil what if i add a quart?

NoPistns

Mazda recommended 10W30 oil for operating in temperatures between -10 F and 120F. Most folks I know use either 15W40 or 20W50 for the extra viscosity.

The thicker oil improves oil pressure and it stays on the parts longer during high temp-high stress operation. It's actually worse for your engine on cold starts because it doesn't flow as well.

The oil metering pump takes a little while to build pressure and flow after starting the engine. This is a critical time for lubricating the seals, especially the apex seals. I've found that pre-mixing Protek-R premix oil from Pettit Racing http://www.pettitracing.com is the answer to this issue. Using 4 oz to 12 gallons is a good street driving ratio. You can also use a good quality 2-cycle (low ash) oil if Protek R is too rich for your wallet.

Evil Aviator

Multigrade motor oil has become much more resistant to shear. I don't think you should have any problem just as long as you used one of the leading brands.
http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...=ccr20040601ov

89tracerman

which oil do u recomed i use this time and what brand. i have 1 month with the car and i have changed the oil 2 times first 20-50 syntetic (auto zone guy said it was good, yeah but not on rotary) 2nd time 10-40 yesterdayi read that 10-40 and 10-50 leave engine dirty 3rd it will be?___________
thanks for the help

Evil Aviator

I guess I don't understand why you didn't just leave the synthetic oil in there. Oh well, the 10W-40 will be a good winter oil. Castrol GTX 20W-50 has proven to work very well in rotary engines, and it leaves fewer deposits than most oils. You can use 20W-50 all the way down to 20 deg F, but the 10W-40 will crank better in the cold.

89tracerman

cuz i read synthetic oil was not ment to be burned

Syonyk

Well, I personally just follow the suggestions in the front of the Haynes manual for oil. I think I have 10W-40 in there now, since it's starting to get cold.

I haven't been terribly picky about brands, since I change the oil every 2k or so. Plus, I'm running premix, so synthetic is just fine (though annoyingly expensive every 2000 miles).

-=Russ=-

Kai

Well, I've used 10W40 in the winter for a couple years, it works fine. Due to some concerns brought up by this board, I don't know if I'll be using it again (the shear issues Evil Aviator mentioned.)

I used to run 20W50 summer, 10W40 winter, but will probably run 10W30 this winter.

10W40 should serve you just fine until the next oil change.

Evil Aviator

It depends on the composition. The better brands work just fine. The only problem with using synthetic engine oil is that it is incredibly expensive, so it's probably only worth the extra cost if you are a professional racer.

Here is some propaganda from Racing Beat and Royal Purple:
http://www.racingbeat.com
"Racing Beat has been recommending the use of synthetic oils in rotary applications for several years. Our research has found that synthetic oils provide superior friction reducing between sliding surfaces, reduced foaming, and lower oil temperatures. We have tested several different synthetic oils and have found that while most offered improved wear and lower oil temperatures, none offered any horsepower gains... except for Royal Purple!

Our in-house testing has yielded up to a 2% performance increase after changing from mineral-based oil to Royal Purple Synthetic Motor Oil. How could this be? Jim Mederer, co-founder and chief engineer at Racing Beat, was truly puzzled. With over 35 years of professional racing experience under his belt, he has seen and tried just about every “new” lubricant that hits the market. All offered better wear and lower oil temperatures but none offered any horsepower improvement. After spending time consulting with the engineers at Royal Purple to better understand the reason for the horsepower gain, it was explained that the secret was the proprietary ingredient “Synerlec”. This Synerlec ingredient provides an ultra-slick film on internal engine components to significantly reduce power-robbing friction. Less friction equals more power!

Other professional engine builders have confirmed that Royal Purple Synthetic Racing Oil delivers measurable horsepower gains. Independent dyno tests show increases up to 5% (on smaller displacement engines) with nothing more than an oil change.

Rotary vehicle owners, do you have questions such as these?

"Can Royal Purple Motor Oil be used in a rotary engine?"
"Mazda makes a statement in the Owner’s Manual not to use synthetic oils in a rotary engine, why do you say that it is OK?"
"I heard that synthetic oil doesn't burn like mineral based oils and will coat the inside of the engine with deposits."

Well, we have some good news! Royal Purple has added a section to their FAQ page on their corporate website that answers these important questions. To review this page, follow this link."
http://www.royalpurple.com/techa/faqsa.html