I wrote this up for my local forum originally so it's all copy/paste

I've been using my brass fitting MBC for about 8 months now and have had no issues with it. Works just like a MBC should. This is a typical ball and spring controller. I decided to do this writeup since I could never find the plans from some DSM website to refer people to. Every single part can be found at ACE Hardware. Great store. Ok, so here goes.

Hardware you need.
1. 1/4" female brass tee
2. Two 1/4" male brass barbed fittings that screw into the tee
3. 1/4" male hex plug
4. Two 1/4" steel ball bearings
5. A mild strength spring that fits snugly on top of the ball
6. A hex cap (or just a bolt) 5/16" by 18
7. A 5/16 by 18 nut (lock nut)



Tools needed.
1. 3/8" or 1/2" drill
2. 9/16" wrench
3. 5/16" by 18 tap
4. 1/4" wrench or tap tool
5. 9/32" drill bit
6. The smallest drill bit you can find, think .04"
7. A hammer
8. A sharp punch or sharp nail
9. Teflon tape
*10*. A vice is highly recomended as is wd40 for cutting brass



There are different ways to go about assembling this but i usually do the dirty work first.

1. Get out the drill and 9/32" bit

2. Put the 1/4" brass cap upside down in a vice, or in a pair of vice grips flap on a table you wont' mind drilling into. squirt a little wd40 in the cap.

3. Drill a hole straight through the top of the cap. carefull, brass is very soft and will grab if you go slow with too much pressure. easiest way is to go full speed with light pressure when drilling.

4. Get out the 5/16"-18 tap, turn over the cap and insert the tap so it stays put.

5. Turn the tap clockwise either using the 1/4" wrench or tap tool, until it has made a nice cut and can go all the way through. MAKE SURE

6. Get out the smallest drill bit, punch/nail, hammer, brass tee.
put the brass tee flat on it's side and put a nice dent in the side where this hole is.



The reason the hole is there is to release pressure build up. Since the ball acts as a check valve, the leftover boost has no where to go. It does not affect performance or boost level at all.
step

7. Carefully drill out where you punched, make sure to use wd40 on this cut also.

8. Wrap all male threads with teflon tape.

9. Screw in barbed fittings as shown here, tighten with 9/16" wrench



step 10. Put in one 1/4" ball bearing so it seats on the bottom barbed fitting, then put the spring ontop of that (you may have to clip your spring to fit inside) then put the second ball bearing on top of the spring.



step 11. Put the cap in last hole and screw the hex cap and lock nut into the threads that you made earlier.

Another shot of the finished product



step 12. Install

I am not responsible for any damage that may occur to your engine, vehicle, self, or spirits when ghetto modding your rig.

 

archive it!~~~~!

 

Forgot to add that if you have all the tools, subtotal for hardware should be around $10.50.

 

I agree! nice write-up, have to try.