well i finally got to install my secondary 1000cc rc injectors. today. i had to add a smaller oring to the top of the injector but it still worked, and is not leaking. so my mods include but are not limited to. rtek 1.7 550/rc1000's, safc1, innovative lc-laptop, full intake, full exhaust, to4 stage 2 or 3 hybrid.

and the injectors ARE firing becuase cruizing at 4k it does get rich. there not leaking, but its getting rediculously lean like REALLY lean in wot. i dont know what the **** it wrong. ill crank up the rtek all the way rich to get em to go all the way, but the mixture is still not getting any more rich.

anyone have ANY ideas??? how much would it cost to get a standalone and do you think it would help??? i have a laptop to read everything with. and i suppose i could spring for it. im like 4k in debt already whats 1k more right?

what should i looks for in looking for a stand alone and do you think it would solve this problem? there rc injectors that are remaned
thanks.
steve.

 

You should get either a standalone or a nice fuel management system. Was the car working fine before you put the new injectors in?

 

I have a megasquirt with fuel + spark for sale if you're interested.

 

First, make sure your wideband is working correctly. Do a heater calibration and a free air calibration (see your instructions on this).

This sounds like a fuel pressure drop though. Has your fuel pump been upgraded AND rewired properly?

 

or mabey they are just to big and when the injector fires the fuel cannot be atomized so it just drips out of the tip and that is how you go lean.

 

i do have it rewired. and its for an 88 vert so i diddnt have to all that other junk with it, it was simple enough.

i did a free air calibration and i check it to the idle and it was perfect just light always. reading in mid 13's for idle. nice and smooth. and at a hard cruise its 14.7. but after that its just like... all over the ******* place. like up and down off the charts. i would think that i should see some kind of consistency with the 1000cc secondaries even regardless of the fuel pressure.

so i think i need do have all the wiring redone in the car just to be safe i suppose.... ugh. with the 720's the peak in wot was like 16. yeah bad i know. and i only went wot just for second becuase i felt knock i think, it was hesitating real bad. so the big question is, why would the 1000cc sec. make it worse???? could it be the voltage being sent to them??? i am noticing a drop in voltage across my interior accessories as well, while my alt is reading a clear 13v while running.

so if im going to go with a stand alone, im really going to need some help fellas. yes i have overhaulded my engine but i have never dared to go this deep into tuning before. MAX i want to make 350 whp supposedly this hybrid can do 440 to the crank but i want to be safe.

how far dare i go with these injectors? what would best support this power while replacing the stock harness? and what would be cheapest in doing so.

also, should i get a fuel pressure meter?should be 43 psi under load correct?

one last question then im done for now. do the injectors just act like an on off switch or are the effected by voltage??

thanks
steve.

 

mid 13's is pretty lean for idle at stock timing (-5, -20). the leanest mine idles smoothly is mid 12's. you may want to double check your WB callibration.

As far as running lean with 1000's, i get the same thing with the rtek 2.0. I have 750 primaries, 1000 secondaries.. even with that size injectors, i still use +35% fuel correction, and at 12+psi it still starts running lean (mid 12's) at higher rpms.

just to give you an idea of what your fuel correction map will look like using an rtek (safc or 2.0).. after tuning for mid 11's in boost, at max boost (13-14psi for me) my fuel map looks like a straight line from 0% at 3krpm to about +35% at 3krpm.

so yeah expect it will take a lot of fuel up top, where your modified engine/turbo setup will be flowing a lot more than the stock ecu expects. seems pretty normal behavior to me.

what psi are you running? what size resistors are you using inline? the stock resistor pack uses 6 ohm resistors.. you will get less current to the injectors using 10 ohm, which will shorten their p/w, thus fuel flow. also remember you are driving a peak&hold type injector with a saturation-type driver, so you will lose some of your resistor fuel capability there

 

so whats the first thing you guys think i should check??? see, i have a laptop and i want to use that for tuning with what ever happens. i can only use a pda for the 2.0 right? so that pretty much rules it out. so pfc maybe? but what should i check first? my fuel pressure? or the fuel pump voltage under load. i really dont want to do this again and risk blowing something.

but its the 1.7 and the FIRST GEN safc....yeah, and 550/1000cc combo. so here is the big question. when you trick the ecu with the safc with the 1.7, does it trick it +- 35% ((is it this much?)from the STOCK air flow setting? or from the 720 preset after 3.5k rpm. because what was thinking is what if the safc will only effect the the STOCK ecu settings (550/550) not from the 1.7 settings (550/720).

so at 43.5 i need an average of 650 cc with the max cycle at 80% to achieve 330 BHP

so should i start with fuel pressure? or will there be a direct relation between fuel pressure and voltage to it.? if so i think i might just buy a generic volt meter and run it to the front to keep a constant eye on it.

which brings up another point. the voltage of the whole system. im getting worried because i have added some new electronics and my clock doesnt work, and my lighter isnt getting any juice either. how can i be sure the the voltage to the rest of the system isnt going to ****??

 

How's your charging system?

I highly recommend going with a standalone for your power goals, I'll never trust a 20 year old factory engine harness to run my motor reliably.

I have the MicroTech, and it was fairly simple to install. Nothing feels better than having new wiring running through your car.

 

oh i couldn't agree more. i need help in that direction though. i'm completely standalone ignorant. Where can i compare/contrast units? someone have a thread? and whats the best way to check the charging system/what is the "charging system" responsible for exactly?

 

There's a section of this forum that's dedicated to engine management. That's where I went for information.

The charging system is the network consisting of: the battery, alternator, starter, and all the wires in between. If one of these items are faulty, the car will not behave normally. The 3800RPM hesistation and slow cranking are a few of the symptoms.

 

One thing to keep in mind is that a wideband will read a misfire as full lean. You may be hosing so much fuel in there that the engine choking and misfiring.

 

meeeeh! im to scared! i dont want to do it. lol

on a side note though, been reading up about the bajo bolt mod. i have it on my car. when i installed it i wasnt planning on making more then 250 hp. but now that my injectors can support 300+ i heard that the pulsation have cause big problems.

anyone have any first or second hand information about this?

 

what fuel pump are you running?

have you checked voltage at the pump while making a pull?

have you checked fuel pressure while making a pull?

sounds to me like a fuel pressure problem.. check your fuel rails, make sure they have banjo bolts and have no restriction. if you can get rid of the pulsation dampner..

 

well i checked the voltage to the stuff in my dash, turns out that the lighter (separate thread) had bad connections, and the radio had a blown inline fuse. im getting 11.6 volts in the on position in the dash so..i thought this might be related

boost, im running a walbro 255 with the rewire. no i have not been able to check the voltage during a run. i dont want to in case of lean conditions....guess ill try it just under boost. i just hook up the pos. and neg. leads right?

i have no access to a fuel pressure gauge at this time. can anyone make any recommendations?

and i did take what you said in your pm into consideration. to repeat you said that you put IN a pulsation damper and it solved your problems boostmys5?

 

update

well at idle, the voltage to the pump drops to about 11.9 at times and never gets higher then 12.4. and while driving under cruize and under boost, the voltage never exeeds 12.9v same case while above 3.5k rpm (secondaries). so does this mean anything?

ill hike the safc all the way up and all the way down. voltage stays same while i still get heavy hesisation under half load while safc is cranked to the lean side.

 

the problem was a bolt where the banjo bolt was suppose to be.. double check your fuel lines under the intake manifold for pinching and check the fuel rails.

 

i have the banjo installed correctly, buy why would a bolt make a difference from a banjo? the hallowyness? i was just in there 2 days ago. no pinching at all.

well when i go half throttle it hovers around 15 afr and the pump stays right at around 13v. give or take .4v. well even with the secondaries NOT working at all it should hesitate with the afc cranked all the way up and its not. so i doubt that the secondaries are not comming on at all.

should it be 15afr at half throttle?

 

i thought that the rtek 1.7 could only run 720cc secondaries max?

 

just like the stock ecu can only run 550s /sarcasm

with safc you can tune it out

 

if your not running a parallel fuel system, you are going to go lean when them suckers start firing.

 

parallel fuel system?? its the stock fuel rails...is that what you mean?

 

Check your voltage at the injectors as well if possible, or perhaps resistance between the positive lead on the injector wires and the battery when the ignition switch is on.

Have the grounds been redone on the wiring harness?

 

okay well. i will check the ecu. at the moment i forget the pins for the secondaries.

as for the grounds. i have i believe 2 grounds comming off the ecu ground to go toward my safc and and a gauge.

is there anything else that you guys think could be wrong with the secondaries? maybe voltage some where. what about the resistors?.. its an 87 t2 engine with low imp. inj. (rectangle plugs with center keys). (there rc injectors)

but ill check the back pin the the ecu as soon as i can. im in class right now actually. lol

also, could it hurt to put another ground on the ecu??if so where. dont know if it would help.

again with the pump, i have had the gauge on that sucker for the past day or 2 and it has never dropped below 11v, ever. while driving it would peak at 13.4ish v

 

Are you running an upgraded fuel pressure regulator?