ok so here's the deal I bought this 88 GXL and it's a pretty sweet car but it doesn't want to rev past 1500 after it heats up a little I checked the tps and everything checked out there so if anybody has any other ideas as to what it could be I would be really appreciative for any help I can get I want to be able to drive it pretty soon!

 

mine is having the same exact problem, im still working on figuring out what it is. The car will basically run and rev up when its first started, but after it warms up it gets worse and worse, so bad to the point u cant drive it unless youre at like 1000 rpm and when u gas it in neutral will go to 1500 and bog and sound like crap and just go back down to 1000 then up to 1500 back and forth

heres the thread for mine, maybe it has something that could help u out with yours
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/car-wont-rev-up-reving-fine-but-problem-comes-goes-why-444571/

 

where is the adjusting screw for the tps?? if some one could take a pic of one for me and post it here that would be great I really want to get this car working there's alot of people that are waiting to see me drive this and I really want to so any help I can get would be great

 

I feel you on that, ive had my car since last september and i finally got it all running about a week ago with my new rebuilt engine and im having the same problem as you.

If you goto the faq section there should be a factory service manual link and it will show you how to adjust tps. I also think fc3spro.com, heres a good link, its showing the turbo model but na is similar


http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TPS/tps.html

there is also a way to check engine codes also -

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/article...odes/main.html

 

have yall checked to see if ur mufflers might be clogged? simply unhook the muffler pipe upfront where the cat should be and see if the car acts any better. my car sort of did that, i had problems accelerating. it felt like i had lost ALOT of power, so i took my dads advice and knocked the muffler down and drove it like that for a bit and sure enough it worked.

 

it's not the mufflers I can feel plenty of air coming out of them thanks for the 2nd options

 

bad airflow meter???? had a buddy whos car would buck like hell at 1500.. it was a bad afm

 

i swapped on an extra one i have and it made no difference whatsoever

 

Try unplugging the tps and then going for a ride. A corrupt tps CAN cause this problem. NOT a misadjusted one, a CORRUPT one. Then again, it could be another thing all together.

 

i tried that and it changed nothing on my car , it seemed like it did for about 5 secs until it started doing the same thing again, i need to look into makin that diagnostic light tester and see whats wrong

could a bad trailing coil cause this ?

 

u think it could be that the throttle cable might be coming loose when u try to gas it up? that happened to me but mine got jammed open.

 

cant be that because it even does it when i do it from the throttle directly with my hand

 

my 87 was acting like that, it was the pulsation damper, so no fule was getting to the engine.

can you smell gas in your engine bay?

 

no i dont smell any fuel in there.

what about this ? i didnt use these on my car but i wouldnt think it would make a difference -

Intake Water O-rings (All years)

These Mazda factory O-rings are designed to mount between the intake manifold and the engine. Sold individually, two (2) required

 

could that cause a vacume leak, if the seal isnt tight?

 

my car has all new intake gaskets so i wouldnt think that would do it, it should still be holding a seal with just the gaskets on i would think ?

 

You'll soon be experiencing a water leak. That's what the o'rings were for. Stop water from leaking b/t the housings and the maifold.

The car should run with just the lead coil assy. You getting spark on the lead wire(s)? Both go to the bottom sparkplugs(just in case)

Trail wires HAVE to go where they are supposed to. T1 to the front top plug and the other T2 to the rear top plug.

Does the car have any type of idle at all?

 

water leak ? why will i have a waterleak ? i didnt see any of those rubber orings on there when i took off the intake manifolds so i dont know wtf those orings were for. Am i going to have a leak ? it would really suck if i have to take off all the intake manifolds again just for some orings...i didnt even see any orings on there when i took off the gaskets etc i dont even know where they would go

the car does idle fine although it doesnt want to stay solid in one place, but earlier i started it up and it still wouldnt rev up it was still being the beast, so i disconnected the tps and then it was fine , but after it competely warmed up ( 1/4 way up on the temp gauge) it still got the problems even with the tps disconnected

as far as the trailing coil, would it work until the car is warmed up or ? i mean i was driving earlier up to 3500 rpm but then once it warmed up it wouldnt go anywhere it wasnt even driveable basically , so bad that i could barely drive it at 1000 rpms , would this be a sign of a bad trailing coil ? also tach will sometimes not work when i start the car, it will jump when i turn it over then go up when it starts then turn off but the car will be running. then i shut it off and turn it back on and then it works again , reted on another post said its a sign the trailing coil is going out since the rpm signal comes from that coil


i really hope i dont have to fix something to do with the orings or whatever that would really blow , i dont see any waterleak on my car at all and it has had at least 3-5 hours of running time so far, but am i going to need to take it all apart and put these orings in ? im assuming there on the manifold that bolts to the engine (though i didnt see any on there when i took it off)


edit/update - i believe the orings are referring to the turbo models, at least in my haynes manual it says

my car is s4 na this would not apply

step 11 " througougly clean the intake manifold and engine gasket mating surfaces, removeing all traces of old gasket material. On turbo models, remove the oringss

step 14 " using a new gasket ( and orings on turbo models), intall the manifild and finger tighten the fasteners"

 

bump anyone got any ideas?

 

Did you wash the engine recently?

Wet plugs will do this.

Just to be rigorous pull the wires and the plugs out. Clean the plugs off. Now take a air blow chuck and spray out the plugs or even let them sit over night. Put them back on car and now try.

 

do you think the engine could be blown?

 

my engine isnt blown it has a brand new rebuild

for an update the car wont rev past 1500 rpms sometimes when i start it up (when its cold), i disconnected the tps and then the problem will go away, but it will only go away until the car is warmed up

 

it is a bad oil metering pump.

 

The OMP shouldn't be a player--he's got an S4.

 

I was talking to a mechanic and he said it sounds like bad seals could this be the problem I really want to get this going or if it were to be in the wiring where would that be and the o2 sensor in the exhaust isn't hooked up could this be causing the problem??