I'm not near a accurate manual right now, but can you tell me if on one end of that connector, if the wire colors are Green/Black and the one under it Black. And on the other end of that plug are the two end wires colored Black/Blue and the other socket has no wire in it at all????

I think this is what Icemark calls a light switch harness that goes b/t that plug and the light switch connector at the back of the ......light switch.

This won't solve all your problems, but it's gotta be fixed sometime.

Did you ever get on the black wire in the ignition switch harnes and see if it has 12v all the time???? Key position does not matter. It the black wire in the two socket connector that has a black/white wire in it also.

I'm looking at a 88fsm from online and IMHO they should have stuck with the 87fsm as far as diagrams go. This online one sucks.

 

alright, i get nothing when i use both of my meters. i'd like to think i'm doing this right, but i'm not sure. i put the meter on V DC and then put the red pin on the black wire and grounded the black pin. it showed 0V the whole time.

here are some pics of the connectors that are unplugged. the white one is 17 pinned.

 

before i go any further.

the tranny wiring harness is non existant. it was pretty much beat to hell. is there some sort of power wire that goes through there and into the main harness that i don't know about?

 

I don't see disconnected tranny switches causing the havoc you've got going on...Neutral switch, maybe, if anything???

If you don't have the 12v at the ignition switch, you're going to have to backtrack the circuit towards the fuse box and figure out where the break is (assuming that you have the 12v at the beginning of the B wire run at the fuse box bus bar (80A) fuse). Like I said earlier, that run splices off to other circuits also (don't ask me where in the harness that is). Maybe you have an open at a splice location somewhere...

So the "ground block" (I'll use the term only to appease Hailers ) is intact and connected below the trailing coils?

 

yes, it is intact and in great shape.

i bought another digital meter. the ones i had were old and i think busted. i'll test it again tomorrow just to make sure.

the neutral switch might play the only role, but even if it did, it would only effect startup... don't think i said this before, but all i'm trying to do is get power to everything so i can adjust my microtech settings. not trying to start the car yet cause my motor is "snail-less" for the moment

 

ok, just looked up that the white 17 pin connector is for the PS unit... damn.. that only leaves the blue connector. it's not for the cruise control either. the C. control is 13P...

 

a few more pics..

do i have my meter on the right settings? i had it on DCV 20...

 

Where are you at as far as chasing that black wire back to where you actually have voltage?

 

here is what i did in the batt. relocation...

YES, i know the neg. is disconected for now.

 

well, i just wanna make sure i have it on the right setting, cause i'm getting voltage nowhere...

 

Uh, that ground cable bolted to the chassis- you did clean it down to bare metal where the terminal sits, right?

Hard to see anything from the pics...

 

yea, i shaved it with a knife.

 

If it was me, I'd have run the big neg cable directly to the starter area/engine, with a smaller gauge cable running to the chassis (like the OEM setup). The starter uses more current than anything, hence the need for for the larger capacity cable near the starter. The way you have it, you'd better have damn good bonding between the engine and chassis...

And where are all of the little positive wires going???

 

microtech, wideband, and fuel pump, only the MT is hooked up. still gotta get a fuse for the WB and pump..

wayne, aren't i suppose to have 12v. to that little clip on the starter? cause i don't. i don't have 12v ANYWHERE on that black wire either.

when i tested at the starter's power, i got 12V.

edit, so should i just run a ground from the battery's chassis ground to the starter?

 

Let's start at the top- do you have 12v at the battery post?
Then follow the the wiring, because something's not hooked up right somewhere.

So you have a direct 12v to the fuel pump?

One of the wires should be hot at the starter, the other should only be hot when the key is turned (can't picture the layout in my head right now, or I'd be more specific).

Black wires generally don't have 12v on 'em, because they're grounds...Generally...

Answer this- do you know what you did differently from the OEM wiring layout (besides moving the battery)? The answer to that question might point you in the right direction...

 

that has to be where the problem lies.

i have 12v at the battery, i move up along the starter post and have 12v. the fuse box sees 12v and so does the alternator post.

i don't really see what i did different from the stock wiring harness other than take out the tranny harness.

 

update. all of my interior lights, except the ones on the instrument panel come on when the battery is connected. i still can not turn on the headlights or the instrument light. i connected everything behind the instrument panel too.

 

YOu must be missing a part of the harness. I think there's a short harness that goes b/t the front harness and the headlight switch. I'll check tomorrow. Look and see if it got left with the old harness. That would explain the lack of headlights.

Does the starter work now? Teh meter must be set right since you've been reading batt voltage ok.

 

that part of the harness is there. i hooked everything up. it passes by the horns and than ends at the pass. side headlights. unless you're talking about wrapping around the motor?

well, the starter's power post is seeing voltage, but that little clip is reading nothing. doesn't matter if the key is turned or not. should i try putting on another starter? i've got a spare.

 

so i put on another starter. STILL no power to the ignition. none.

but because it is night, i just realized that my some more of my lights work. here's a list that works and doesn't.

works:
turn signal lights(but they do NOT blink when i turn the blinkers on)
ALL interior lights
brake lights

does not work:
headlights(don't even pop up)
blinkers(they will come on, but not "blink"
hazzards

why can't i get any ignition? is it possible that the ignition itself is bad?

i'm going crazy. i'm sooooo close.

 

Tell you what. Is it possible that the clutch interlock sw is not connected up??

Try this.......pull the small, white, two socket plug off the LEAD coil assy. Put the meters negative lead on a good ground, like the batt negative post or maybe the engine. Then put the positive lead on the BLACK/YELLOW wire in the white plug. Turn the key to ON. If you have 12v, then you probably have a starter circuit problem and nothing worse. If you have theft protection I'd take the plug off that critter to disable it.

The starters small wire won't have power inless you turn the key to START and have the clutch pedal engaged. The only exception is if you have jumpered the clutch switch. Another thing that might stop the starter from spinning is if the Starter Cut RElay is engaged by the theft unit. Rid yourself of theft protection for now.

YOu really need to go to that black wre at the ignition harness and tell us if that wire has 12v on it. You know the meter works if you've seen 12v on the battery. So now go see if the black wire has 12v. Key does NOT have to be on.

 

times like these i wish the car was in the garage. too dark now. thanks for the leads hailers.

 

ok, at that black and yellow wire, i'm getting 1.5V

 

That's no good at all. The black/yellow wire gets its power from the MAIN RELAY who in turn gets its power from the 40amp EGI INJ fuse in the engine bay.

The MAIN RELAY is near the Trail coils. Pull off one of the two plugs on the MAIN RELAY. The square plug. Put the meters positive lead on the black/green wire and the negative lead on a good ground. You should have 12v there. If not, then something is wrong at the engine fuse box. Either the 40a EGI INJ fuse is busted or its feed wire below it is off.

If you have 12v there at the black/green, then pull the round plug off. Put the meters positive lead on the black/white wire and the negative lead on a good ground. Turn the key to ON. You should have approx 12vdc on the black/white wire when you do that.

If you do have 12v on the black/white wire, then put the plugs back on the relay and hold the relay in your hand. Now have someone turn the key to on/off/on/off and see if you can feel the relay pull in when the key is turned to on/off.

By the time you do the above it'll be too dark to do anything else.

If you had 12v on the main relay's black/white wire and the relay does not pull in, then either the relay is kaput OR you are missing the ground for the relay to pull in. The ground for the relay is in that round plug. The Black wire. With the meter on ohms, put your positive lead on the black wire and the negative lead to a known good ground. It should read something like 0.1 ohms or less. If not, then the ground terminal is not connected up.

 

ok, i have 12v at the black and green wire, but i don't have 12v at the B/W wire....