wiper switch - which relay ?
#1
wiper switch - which relay ?
hello all,
Im in the process of repairing the wiper switch on my 88.
I have the switch out, apart and there are 3 relays...
a sliver one on one side,#1,
then 2 relays on the other side,
one being actually a visible copper relay under a clear plastic cover,#2.
And another silver relay next to it, #3.
I had to cut away the back plasticcover so I can remove this one.
My question is... which relay controls the action of returning the wiper arms to their
original resting horizontal position ??
Right now, my wipers work fine on intermittant, speed 1 and speed 2,
however when I click 'off' or am in the intermittant cycle, the wipers stop half way,
like at a 45 degree angle, kinda funny...
I have ordered and recieved a relay from digi-tech and will replace #3 as I have read in several posts, and I will clean those little copper plates# 2 with sandpaper the best I can.
Does relay #1 control the wiper stuck half way thing ?
Is there any other small thing to repair or retouch ?
since its all apart now...
Any info is appreciated.... I will try and post a pic tommorrow.
Thanks all...
Mack
Im in the process of repairing the wiper switch on my 88.
I have the switch out, apart and there are 3 relays...
a sliver one on one side,#1,
then 2 relays on the other side,
one being actually a visible copper relay under a clear plastic cover,#2.
And another silver relay next to it, #3.
I had to cut away the back plasticcover so I can remove this one.
My question is... which relay controls the action of returning the wiper arms to their
original resting horizontal position ??
Right now, my wipers work fine on intermittant, speed 1 and speed 2,
however when I click 'off' or am in the intermittant cycle, the wipers stop half way,
like at a 45 degree angle, kinda funny...
I have ordered and recieved a relay from digi-tech and will replace #3 as I have read in several posts, and I will clean those little copper plates# 2 with sandpaper the best I can.
Does relay #1 control the wiper stuck half way thing ?
Is there any other small thing to repair or retouch ?
since its all apart now...
Any info is appreciated.... I will try and post a pic tommorrow.
Thanks all...
Mack
#2
The one you need to replace is the one you had to cut the plastic to uncover.
That controls the park, and intermitant and I think low...not too sure on low.
I know this for sure because I removed that relay on my switch, and my park no longer is working. There are also a few tutorials floating around telling you how to do it.
I just havnt ordered the new one. I have to get over the 20$ in parts and shipping and fees just to get the original 6$ part. I'm trying to find it local. GL
That controls the park, and intermitant and I think low...not too sure on low.
I know this for sure because I removed that relay on my switch, and my park no longer is working. There are also a few tutorials floating around telling you how to do it.
I just havnt ordered the new one. I have to get over the 20$ in parts and shipping and fees just to get the original 6$ part. I'm trying to find it local. GL
#3
Here's a popular write-up on wiper switch relay replacement that's pretty thorough:
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/WIPER/wiper.html
It includes a diagram that shows which relay is which.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/WIPER/wiper.html
It includes a diagram that shows which relay is which.
#4
(Content removed - Don't advertise services in the tech section please.)
I can tell you the biggest problem is that "most" people think its "easy" to fix this themselves, but they just toast the PCB in the end.
I can tell you the biggest problem is that "most" people think its "easy" to fix this themselves, but they just toast the PCB in the end.
Last edited by Pele; 01-22-10 at 11:59 AM.
#5
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
See here:
The small relay controls the auto-park and intermittent. Small relay is in a clear housing with a piece of aluminum glued on top of it. There are two in a rear wiper equipped car. In the above pisture, #1 and #3 are the small relays. #1 is for the rear wiper. #3 is the front wiper.
The larger relay controls the High/Low speed selection. Large relay is in a white/translucent housing in the middle. There is only one of these. This is #2 in the pic above.
It's a good idea to replace both since they both fail. Plus the suppliers of these relays usually have a minimum order...
Hope that helps.
The small relay controls the auto-park and intermittent. Small relay is in a clear housing with a piece of aluminum glued on top of it. There are two in a rear wiper equipped car. In the above pisture, #1 and #3 are the small relays. #1 is for the rear wiper. #3 is the front wiper.
The larger relay controls the High/Low speed selection. Large relay is in a white/translucent housing in the middle. There is only one of these. This is #2 in the pic above.
It's a good idea to replace both since they both fail. Plus the suppliers of these relays usually have a minimum order...
Hope that helps.
Last edited by Pele; 01-22-10 at 12:05 PM.
#6
Hey Thank you all for the detailed links and the attached photos with further clarifications.
There is a lot of knowledge on this forum on Rx-7's, knowledge is a good thing.
Actually I have replaced one of the relays on a 1988 GXL I owned in about 2004.
The wipers didnt cycle so I changed the #3 relay, and it worked perfect after that.
That car was sold in 2007.
The repair was relatively easy, just took my time, think twice before each move and all was well.
This is on my 88 turbo. A very special car.
I had forgot which relay did what, and since my wipers stopped half way, something different,
I needed to ask.
I bought 2 of the #3 relays in 2004, because I had 2 rx-7s, so I sorted thru my parts baskets
last night and found the replacement.
I went to radio shack this morning and got a new roll of soldering braid, so tonight I
will do the repair - kinda fun, a good jump start for the weekend.
A few pics later too...
thanks again...
There is a lot of knowledge on this forum on Rx-7's, knowledge is a good thing.
Actually I have replaced one of the relays on a 1988 GXL I owned in about 2004.
The wipers didnt cycle so I changed the #3 relay, and it worked perfect after that.
That car was sold in 2007.
The repair was relatively easy, just took my time, think twice before each move and all was well.
This is on my 88 turbo. A very special car.
I had forgot which relay did what, and since my wipers stopped half way, something different,
I needed to ask.
I bought 2 of the #3 relays in 2004, because I had 2 rx-7s, so I sorted thru my parts baskets
last night and found the replacement.
I went to radio shack this morning and got a new roll of soldering braid, so tonight I
will do the repair - kinda fun, a good jump start for the weekend.
A few pics later too...
thanks again...
#7
The first one I repaired on my own (first time I ever tried to solder) I completely toasted everything. After that...it was easy to repair them.
Here is the big "trick" when soldering. Do NOT attempt to heat up the existing, old, solder and remove. Add NEW/FRESH solder to the existing solder until it is liquid and then remove...this tip will save you a TON of heartache!
Here is the big "trick" when soldering. Do NOT attempt to heat up the existing, old, solder and remove. Add NEW/FRESH solder to the existing solder until it is liquid and then remove...this tip will save you a TON of heartache!
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#8
Right near Malloy
iTrader: (28)
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 7,847
Likes: 513
From: Behind a workbench, repairing FC Electronics.
The first one I repaired on my own (first time I ever tried to solder) I completely toasted everything. After that...it was easy to repair them.
Here is the big "trick" when soldering. Do NOT attempt to heat up the existing, old, solder and remove. Add NEW/FRESH solder to the existing solder until it is liquid and then remove...this tip will save you a TON of heartache!
Here is the big "trick" when soldering. Do NOT attempt to heat up the existing, old, solder and remove. Add NEW/FRESH solder to the existing solder until it is liquid and then remove...this tip will save you a TON of heartache!
The key is you have to have a good, fine tip on the iron to get into the solder joint, and it has to be hot enough to melt the solder quickly without being too hot to toast the board.
This is where a good temp controlled unit comes in handy. You want the tip to be 680-700 deg F.
You also want to minimize your time on the board. Soldering iron should be on the board no more than 10 sec.
#9
Hey Pele,
Ive ran into a little problem.
I installed the new relay, and it does return to park now, and thats cool,
but the intermittants do not work at all. They worked before.
So I checked my part number with the ones listed on the link ...
My numbers- 8a-spst-no/nc
6gc-2114P-US-DC12
The link numbers - 8aspst-no/spst-nc
6gc-2114-US-DC12
there is a difference- mine has a P in it and the 8a code is different too.
digi code must have sent me the wrong one.... ouch
So... I will order 2 new ones, with the correct code
Question - do you know of anyone who sells a NEW relay #2 ???
I would really want to change that one also, while I have it all apart.
Thanks
Ive ran into a little problem.
I installed the new relay, and it does return to park now, and thats cool,
but the intermittants do not work at all. They worked before.
So I checked my part number with the ones listed on the link ...
My numbers- 8a-spst-no/nc
6gc-2114P-US-DC12
The link numbers - 8aspst-no/spst-nc
6gc-2114-US-DC12
there is a difference- mine has a P in it and the 8a code is different too.
digi code must have sent me the wrong one.... ouch
So... I will order 2 new ones, with the correct code
Question - do you know of anyone who sells a NEW relay #2 ???
I would really want to change that one also, while I have it all apart.
Thanks
#11
I did see on the the #2 clear cover, its faded, the info....
Omron japan, { hah, they were the original manufacturers too on this part, small world }
G6c-2117p FD -
However the last digits are gone, does anyone know what they are, looks like an M or a 7.
Life is fun. yeah, its better to change all 3...
Omron japan, { hah, they were the original manufacturers too on this part, small world }
G6c-2117p FD -
However the last digits are gone, does anyone know what they are, looks like an M or a 7.
Life is fun. yeah, its better to change all 3...
#12
Last year when I ordered parts for replacing the #3 relay from the above diagram, what I got was also marked G6C-2114P-US-DC12. I bought mine from Digikey, for what it's worth. This relay worked fine and my wipers work on intermittent, low, and high with no issues.
Of course, I did damage the board in my wiper switch as nycgps suggested above. I guess I overheated the board causing one of the tiny metal bushings to stick to one of the pins of the old relay. This causes a loss of continuity between the two sides of the board at that pin. I fixed it by adding a jumper wire. The story of my wiper switch saga had its own thread here:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiper-switch-rebuild-disaster-833548/
I don't suppose there's any chance this could have happened when you removed your relay, could it?
As for relay #2, the OEM part number on mine was Omron G8S-117P-FD-04. Apparently this part number has been replaced by G5LE-14-DC12.
Of course, I did damage the board in my wiper switch as nycgps suggested above. I guess I overheated the board causing one of the tiny metal bushings to stick to one of the pins of the old relay. This causes a loss of continuity between the two sides of the board at that pin. I fixed it by adding a jumper wire. The story of my wiper switch saga had its own thread here:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/wiper-switch-rebuild-disaster-833548/
I don't suppose there's any chance this could have happened when you removed your relay, could it?
As for relay #2, the OEM part number on mine was Omron G8S-117P-FD-04. Apparently this part number has been replaced by G5LE-14-DC12.
#13
Hey Daviddeep, thanks for the info and the part numbers.
Yeah, Im sure I didnt damage the board, plus when I tested it, I had the clear cover off #2,
and when I turned the **** from speed 1-2, I could see the little copper relay arm move back and forth, a good sign.
So I will order both relays, the 2114 one and the 2114p one, Im still not sure of the difference,
or why the links say use the 2114 one, maybe they are close enough to the same part that digikey sends the 2114p now.
I will also order the #2 relay, and change it also.
Thanks again for the info and the links.
Yeah, Im sure I didnt damage the board, plus when I tested it, I had the clear cover off #2,
and when I turned the **** from speed 1-2, I could see the little copper relay arm move back and forth, a good sign.
So I will order both relays, the 2114 one and the 2114p one, Im still not sure of the difference,
or why the links say use the 2114 one, maybe they are close enough to the same part that digikey sends the 2114p now.
I will also order the #2 relay, and change it also.
Thanks again for the info and the links.