Wiper Switch rebuild disaster!
05-12-09 | 05:39 PM
#26
Thread Starter
Rotary Powered Since 1995
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,178
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From: Potomac, MD
Yeah, this is not an easy or quick job, at least it wasn't for me. The hardest part was getting that last bit of solder that tended to pool in the holes of the PCB around the bases of the relay pins. Your idea of cutting them off then pushing the relay out with a low-watt iron sounds good. It might have kept me from damaging my board since I probably overheated it.
05-14-09 | 12:21 AM
#27
guys! this is a EXTREMELY VERY HARD task to do! I tried to melt away the solder of the pins, but it is VERY hard to remove them while they're melting! so i tried to pull the relay out with a clamp, and i broke all 6 pins! then i tried to heat it up again to pull out the remaining pins, and when i get to the LAST pin, i screwed up and broke the PCB....good luck to me on my 2nd try with another switch i found in the junk yard...
05-21-09 | 04:49 AM
#28
Rotary its a way of life
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 724
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From: Fredericksburg, VA
confused a bit what are the 2 relays needed for a front only if you can give the numbers for digikey that would be very nice wanna get it rebuilt before i have to ever use it
Last edited by RicerJ; 05-21-09 at 05:03 AM.
05-21-09 | 09:40 AM
#29
I believe the digikey part # is: Z950-ND and the manufacturer part # is: G6C-2114P-US-SC12.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l&name=Z950-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...l&name=Z950-ND
05-21-09 | 11:31 AM
#30
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Rotary Powered Since 1995
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Posts: 1,178
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From: Potomac, MD
In a car with only front wipers, most people only need to replace the lowest relay which controls intermittent speed, park, and high speed. That is the Omron G6C-2114P-US-DC12 (Digikey part no. Z950-ND). If you want to also replace the second relay which controls low speed, that is Omron G5LE-14-DC12 (Digikey Z1012-ND). For a car with a rear wiper, that uses a second G6C-2114P-US-DC12.
07-14-09 | 06:09 AM
#31
Yes use the sucker to remove the desoldeed debris to make a clean new solder point. I did a fix that a will link to and it worked fine for SIX dollars (cost of new relay)
check this
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/WIPER/wiper.html
check this
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/WIPER/wiper.html
06-30-12 | 06:45 PM
#34
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 16
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From: Puyallup Wa
I used a 40W Radio Shack iron when I rebuilt my wiper switch. I didn't have a problem with it burning anything. Much of that had to do with my technique- I made sure I didn't keep the iron on the joint any longer than I had to, kept it tinned and clean, and I took my time and let the parts cool off as needed. I took a summer soldering class at a voc. school when I was a kid- one of the best decisions I ever made 
.
I agree about the solder sucker part, though. It only seems to be effective when there's a lot of solder or if you add solder to a joint before you use the sucker. Not that I had an easy time with the braid.
.I agree about the solder sucker part, though. It only seems to be effective when there's a lot of solder or if you add solder to a joint before you use the sucker. Not that I had an easy time with the braid.
Right on... These are good techniques! i had to learn them the long, gain experience, way
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