Ok, sorry for the many posts (maybe I helped someone). I had to make 20 so I could ask a question and try to get some help. Anyway.

I'm have a 87 TII with windshield wiper issues.

Ok so I'm trying to get my windsheild wipers to work on any other setting besides "I".. as of now that's the only setting they work on.

What I've done so far to trouble shoot.

Installed new motor, no change, back to old motor.

Installed new relay into circuit board for the wiper switch. No change.

Bought used wiper switch off of e-bay from year (?) all I remember is it was for an FC. It works on intermittent, but it's sluggish, "II" does not work. "I" still works, Holding down "mist" makes sounds like its about to fry something in the switch. Kind of a same sound for the Int. setting as well. The wipers try to park but don't. I want to say they stop about halfway with this replacement switch..With the original switch they don't park. I have to gauge the timing and turn them off quick.

Thoughts / ideas?

 

You have two bad wiper switches.

 

Agreed. The issue you are describing is the classic "FC wiperswitch" that needs repaired.

 

I'm fairly sure this is also covered in the FAQs. There are also threads in the archives to reference

 

Brigdh, the FAQ talks about replacing the relay in the switch. I have done this already per the insructions on here. That's why Im posting.

Rotordemon, 2 bad wiper switches? I havent seen that before. Are we talking about the relays still? Or the rotating parts in the switch?

Thanks for the replies.

Alex

 

Go to the plug at the wiper motor and w/key to on jumper a ground to the Blue/Red wire in the plug. This should cause the wipers to move at their fastest setting. If they do this then either the problem lies within the wiper switch or the wiring from the switch to the wiper motor.

 

Honestly Ive never seen the wiring for the wiper go bad, especially considering its loomed with the engine harness and doesnt see much heat or corrosion.

He's already stated that the wipers worked on the 'low' setting, changed the switch and got the intermittent to work and the washer to attempt to work (the about to fry something noise is what the washer sounds like when its empty or trying to pump fluid into clogged nozzles).

So in short, he's gotten ahold of 2 bad switches, and the symptoms he describes are 100% in line with what a bad switch will do. Wipers wont return to rest position (bad switch), wipers only work on "I" (bad switch), wipers that only work on one setting in general (bad switch).

There should be a couple write-ups on how to repair the switch yourself, or you can nicely ask Pele to repair it for you (might be a couple other forum members that are capable of doing the repair as well, but he stands out as offering the service in his sig last I looked.)

 

Digi-Key replacement relay part numbers:

Z1012-ND *park relay* http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...Words=Z1012-ND
Z950-ND *main relay* http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...yWords=Z950-ND

To completely overhaul your wiper switch you will need to order (1) park relay and (1) main relay, or (2) main relays if you have a rear wiper hatch.

 

agreed, i have never seen a wiring issue. it's always the wiper relay, if it's still not working with a rebuilt unit you probably should look at the switch contacts for the rotary switch as well(on the ****).

the wiper switches VERY commonly go bad, in fact that is about the first thing to fail on these cars ranking about even with the window switches.

 

Ok. I guess its the main relay still... but I've replaced this one once already and still nothing on hi /"II". Will changing the park relay fix anything other than the park function? Either way I'm still buying parts.

Alex

 

Is there any chance when you replaced the main relay that you could have accidentally removed the small copper sleeve in the PCB?

 

i thought i mentioned the rotary switch as well..

 

+1 Easy to do if you're not really really careful.

 

Pretty sure the copper is all still there. I had my friend who is an electronics tech. on aircraft do it.. I'm pretty confident he did this right.

Karack - You did bring it up, but it looked to be brushd under the carpet. Areyou saying to take apart the rotary dial as well and clean it and lube with dielectric grease?


Alex

 

pretty much, the rotary switches should be checked and cleaned also. just like the ignition switch which also has a tendency to fail sometimes.

 

ok, ill do that too when I get a minute. Ill keep this updated.

 

So i have a very similar problem... i should order these parts and then get the switches rebuilt??

 

If you plan on repairing it yourself, go for it. It's easy and quick. If you plan on shipping it out to get repaired, contact the repairer first and ask if they need the relays to be sent with the switch.

 

how many would i need? im looking to order them now.. and the site just says quantity.... how many would i need for each relay/ switch?

 

Order one of each of those relays. If you have a rear wiper order one extra main relay, like the post before states.

The hardest part is opening up the case without breaking anything...

 

no i feel dumb that i quoted it... read that and still didnt get it -.-;.... thanks anyway i sent out for them......

 

I have a rebuilt switch if you're interested in going that route. Best of luck either way!

 

this actually helped me in advance since i wasn't going to worry about my dead switch til i got my car back on the road

 

i got the same problem in my 87 n/a

 

Searched wiper switch repair and this was one of the first threads so I'm resurrecting it.

BTW, the main repair how-to is in the stickies/or archive.

Replaced Main Relay, Wipers work perfect now.

Couple of things (edit, lol, more)...

- I found it easier to just cut out the whole area around the side of the relay (the black case, not relay).
- It can be very tricky to do unless you've got good experience soldering...the copper traces and round traces (pads?) around the pins like to come off. I had to use a little jumper wire to a nearby trace. To put in perspective, I've fixed issues without problems on the warning lights, clock, CPU, but mixed results with the radio display, so this is harder than the former, but easier than the radio, for what it's worth.
- In future, I'd probably open the case up around like I mentioned, then take the relay internals apart to be able to unsolder one pin at time, unsoldering all 6 pins is the part which makes this more tricky, even after removing as much solder as possible using a desoldering braid and bulb (yes, I had both).
- from the above, find the best tools to ensure as much solder is taken out for removal of the old relay.
- then you add solder to the pins, solder also flows to the other side connection on the board, since some pins connect to both sides, so that's good.