2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Window down in 88 vert,won't budge-NEED HELP

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Old 02-21-03 | 02:08 AM
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petrov's Avatar
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From: Deer Park, NY
Window down in 88 vert,won't budge-NEED HELP

Something broke inside the driv side door of my 88 vert and the (electric) window just went down to the bottom. Took door trim off to check & tried to lift the window up but it wont budge....big problem since its 15deg in NY!
Looks like 1 of the 2 cables that run down the REGULATOR channel is gone.
Motor still seems to work in both directions.
Maz manual says to electrically lift the window 9" to unbolt it, but DUH, it doesn't move with the cable broke!
PLEASE HELP FAST: ITS COLD OUT HERE
1.How do I lift the window up so I can support it or tape it or do something so I can drive again.
2. Does the regulator channel, cables and motor for the driv side come in 1 piece and where would I get the parts fast.
PLEASE ADVISE.Thanks
Old 02-21-03 | 03:09 AM
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Fix's....

Quick fix - remove the two 10MM bolts on the mounting bracket (don't loose these bolts). Then, simply push it up holding it temporarily in place with a custom cut piece of styrofoam or wood braced against the inside bottom of your door to hold it temporarily.

Ultimate fix - This is common for Vert regulators and the only real fix is to replace the unit. It only comes in one unit, separate pieced from Mazda aren't available. What happens is the plastic guide the cable makes a 90 degree turn on wears out leaving the cable to rub against a metal edge. You probably noticed the window moving slow for awhile before it stopped working.

Check around for a used replacement. Usually cost somewhere between $150-200. But not that hard to install yourself if you take your time and pay attention to the adjustment points on the one currently in your door. Three bolts hold the motor, 4 bolts hold the lift mechanism. One bolt on each of the two "stops" when you remove the window so you can install your replacement mechansim.

If you have trouble finding one quickly, let me know. I could probably find you one in short order. Just cover my cost of getting it and the shipping. I've done this for a few forum members already. I own a couple Verts and went through this frustration myself. Along the way I found good sources.

Also, there is a guy named Ernst that sells RX7 parts regularly on e-bay. He is on the east coast like yourself. Find one of his auctions for an e-mail link to check if he has one.

Good luck and dress warmly in the meantime.

Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; 02-21-03 at 03:13 AM.
Old 02-21-03 | 11:27 AM
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petrov's Avatar
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From: Deer Park, NY
Thanks for the quick response HozzmanRX7.

Are the forementioned bolts accessable without having to lift the window 9" first.

I may take you up on the parts procurement offer after I check the NE area.

Thank goodness its 48 deg now in NY and can I drive w/ window down.
Old 02-21-03 | 11:56 AM
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Bolt accesability

Yeah. The door is designed for the bolts to be removed with the window halfway up.

In your situation, one (I believe the forward one) is easy either way. But, with an open end and closed end 10MM wrench you can still get the other if your patient and careful. Try removing the 4 bolts on the center glide unit so you can shift it around to make accesability easier.
Old 02-21-03 | 11:57 AM
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Bolt accesability

Yeah. The door is designed for the bolts to be removed with the window halfway up.

In your situation, one (I believe the forward one) is easy either way. But, with an open end and closed end 10MM wrench you can still get the other if your patient and careful.
Old 02-21-03 | 08:07 PM
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HOZZMANRX7, you were right on the money in removing the (2) 10mm bolts.

However,with the window down it was a taunting job: took 2 1/2 hrs outdoors, sliced up hands: had to use offset rachet and crow foot open end wrenches along with HD magnet pickup tool.Also had to bend out inside metal of door to access bolts better.Even had to get help from smaller hands to hand turn the bolts out.

Used metallic duct tape (the only thing that really sticks) to hold the window up while wedging foam between the window and inside door frame.

It all seems to work, and just in time: it's supposed to rain again tonite and tomorrow.

Now I can spend time looking for the replacement part.

ADVICE TO ANYONE WHOSE POWER WINDOW BREAKS: DO ANYTHING NECESSARY TO AVOID LETTING THE WINDOW BOTTOM OUT!

Thanks again for your help.
Old 02-21-03 | 09:50 PM
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Your welcome.

Been there, done that. Glad my experience came in handy for you.

So, now that you have it out, was it indeed a broken cable?
Old 02-22-03 | 12:03 AM
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Yes it was.
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