Will Walbro 255 overload stock FPR?
02-23-06, 07:45 AM
#28
I'm back Bishes
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,241
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MattB
so i dont need the PD?
It certainly eliminates the chance of an engine fire due to failure...
02-23-06, 09:06 AM
#29
MattB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Haverhill, MA
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
well i guess ill throw one of my extra banjo bolts in while im down there...i think im gonna remove all the extra vacuum lines this weekend...maybe i just have a VAC problem and thatll fix it? what do i do with the fuel lines when i remove the vac system? i didnt understand it while reading the writeup
02-23-06, 10:05 AM
#30
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by MattB
i noticed there is a crack in the tube that connects the turbo to the IC...probably quite a big VAC leak...
02-23-06, 10:50 AM
#31
MattB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Haverhill, MA
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i hope not...cause ive been trying to fix it for like 3 weeks...only discovered this crack last night...IF THAT FIXES IT ILL GO NUTS....where can i get a fitting that size?
its the rubber fitting thats directly connected to the turbo...small crack that goes about 1/4 way up the rubber....could that make my idle THAT bad...
would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel?
would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?
why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?
why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?
can anyone answer any of those?
-Matt
its the rubber fitting thats directly connected to the turbo...small crack that goes about 1/4 way up the rubber....could that make my idle THAT bad...
would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel?
would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?
why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?
why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?
can anyone answer any of those?
-Matt
Last edited by MattB; 02-23-06 at 10:52 AM.
02-23-06, 10:55 AM
#32
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as for the fuel lines you need to go to the parts store and get the right length's for the feed and return...your just bypassing what used to be their,the rats nest....its prob. dif. somewhat than my n/a rats nest but someone will know the size and length's youll need....and what fitting are you talking about?? get some RTV and see if that fixes the idle????if it does then you can make a new TID...
02-23-06, 11:00 AM
#34
tom port.. AKA streetport
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: ludlow, pa
Posts: 4,659
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
its the rubber fitting thats directly connected to the turbo...small crack that goes about 1/4 way up the rubber....could that make my idle THAT bad... yep
would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel? yep
would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?not sure
why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?
why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?because your putting a load on the motor
can anyone answer any of those?
im guessing a vac leak can cause more fuel and its trying to compensate for the leak....my guess...
would it make my engine compensate by giving it more fuel? yep
would it cause bucking while trying to cruise at a constant speed?not sure
why would it idle right if i pinched the fuel line?
why would it idle lower if i bogged it down by letting the clutch out in gear?because your putting a load on the motor
can anyone answer any of those?
im guessing a vac leak can cause more fuel and its trying to compensate for the leak....my guess...
Last edited by 88rxn/a; 02-23-06 at 11:03 AM.
02-23-06, 02:09 PM
#36
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Statesboro, GA
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sometimes mine idles high..say 1000 rpms or so.
i can bog it down and put the clutch back in and it'll idle right at 750.
if i tap the gas, it'll idle high again.
somehow there are two idle levels and it chooses high unless i make it switch to low.
but then there are times that it'll idle high for a few seconds and go down on it's own.
BTW: i never had any idleing issues after installing my walbro. still using stock FPR and most likely the original PD. ~137k miles.
i can bog it down and put the clutch back in and it'll idle right at 750.
if i tap the gas, it'll idle high again.
somehow there are two idle levels and it chooses high unless i make it switch to low.
but then there are times that it'll idle high for a few seconds and go down on it's own.
BTW: i never had any idleing issues after installing my walbro. still using stock FPR and most likely the original PD. ~137k miles.
02-23-06, 04:46 PM
#38
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Statesboro, GA
Posts: 1,233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i get about 18-20 city/hwy driving. if i were to drive strictly hwy, i think i get around 22mpg.
super rich?....doubt it. no black smoke that i can see, however, my bumper turns yellow to brown around the exhaust tips. not sure if that's oil or fuel soot stains.
super rich?....doubt it. no black smoke that i can see, however, my bumper turns yellow to brown around the exhaust tips. not sure if that's oil or fuel soot stains.
Last edited by fstrnyou; 02-23-06 at 04:49 PM.
02-23-06, 04:52 PM
#39
Super Raterhater
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Posts: 10,629
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I'd wager faulty water thermosensor, AIT sensors (either AFM or intake), or similar.
As for those two idle levels, that's a common problem when your throttle cable has too much tension and is really setting the idle for the car instead of the throttle stop screws.
As for those two idle levels, that's a common problem when your throttle cable has too much tension and is really setting the idle for the car instead of the throttle stop screws.
02-23-06, 07:01 PM
#40
MattB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Haverhill, MA
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, well i just went back and REDID my whole intake system. made sure everything was all set...
took apart my TID and put RTV in all the connections...
then there was a crack right after my turbo before my IC, in the rubber connector that connects to the pipe going up towards IC...so i replaced that connector with another one i had...much softer...and new clamps.
..then i replaced the hose with new clamps that go from there to the BAC valve, then i replaced the 90 degree connector that goes from there to the IC...then the 90 degree that goes from the other side of the IC to the TB...
i gotta wait for my RTV to dry on my intake, so ill start it in the morning and let you know how it worked...
-Matt
took apart my TID and put RTV in all the connections...
then there was a crack right after my turbo before my IC, in the rubber connector that connects to the pipe going up towards IC...so i replaced that connector with another one i had...much softer...and new clamps.
..then i replaced the hose with new clamps that go from there to the BAC valve, then i replaced the 90 degree connector that goes from there to the IC...then the 90 degree that goes from the other side of the IC to the TB...
i gotta wait for my RTV to dry on my intake, so ill start it in the morning and let you know how it worked...
-Matt
02-24-06, 07:24 AM
#43
MattB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Haverhill, MA
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no, not really, but i put it in there the other day and well...i dont feel like swapping back right now. It will eliminate one more possible problem too...
I guess its time to remove the rats nest to simplify my VAC system?
I guess its time to remove the rats nest to simplify my VAC system?
02-24-06, 09:38 AM
#45
MattB
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Haverhill, MA
Posts: 1,124
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i just dont get it anymore...i dont know what else i could have done wrong...when i swapped the injectors i was very careful about putting it all back right, and i cant think of anything i didnt do right...
i guess if i simplify my VAC system itll be easier to diagnose...but from what i have heard a lot of people who do it just have their car running worse after...who knows...its worth a shot i guess
i guess if i simplify my VAC system itll be easier to diagnose...but from what i have heard a lot of people who do it just have their car running worse after...who knows...its worth a shot i guess
02-24-06, 01:53 PM
#48
...
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Have you tried the DIY boost leak checker?
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Also,
on my GTU-TII, with a walbro, I had to take out quite a bit of fuel at idle with my SAFC to get it smoothed out.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
Also,
on my GTU-TII, with a walbro, I had to take out quite a bit of fuel at idle with my SAFC to get it smoothed out.
02-24-06, 02:27 PM
#50
...
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 506
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you hear a leak, but can't tell where its coming from,
Make a shadetree stethoscope.
Grab a few foot length of Vac hose,
put one end in your ear, & poke the other end around under the intake.
you should be able to hear exactly where its at.
I found a leak at my LIM to block gasket, & replaced it.
Make a shadetree stethoscope.
Grab a few foot length of Vac hose,
put one end in your ear, & poke the other end around under the intake.
you should be able to hear exactly where its at.
I found a leak at my LIM to block gasket, & replaced it.
Last edited by 13angryB's; 02-24-06 at 02:29 PM.