wierd idle when electricals are on
#1
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wierd idle when electricals are on
I did a search, but didn't find anything specific enough to my problem.
When I have my lights headlights on or my air vents on, my idle starts jumping from 1000-1500 erratically. But only after I drive a bit.
But if i turn on my car, then turn on my defroster or lights or whatever, it doesn't make my car idle crazy, however, it does make the idle jump a little higher than it normally is, around 1000 instead of the 750 it's normally at.
This happens when I have the headlights, air vents or defroster on, however, i haven't noticed a diff w/ the wipers or the radio on.
Another problem i'm having is that when I rev up, i hear a squeeling noise. It usually happens when i have my electricals on also. At first I thought it was my belt tension, but i adjusted that to spec, and it's still making that noise. It's been suggested that the pulley could be making that noise. But i was wondering if these problems could be interrelated?
When I have my lights headlights on or my air vents on, my idle starts jumping from 1000-1500 erratically. But only after I drive a bit.
But if i turn on my car, then turn on my defroster or lights or whatever, it doesn't make my car idle crazy, however, it does make the idle jump a little higher than it normally is, around 1000 instead of the 750 it's normally at.
This happens when I have the headlights, air vents or defroster on, however, i haven't noticed a diff w/ the wipers or the radio on.
Another problem i'm having is that when I rev up, i hear a squeeling noise. It usually happens when i have my electricals on also. At first I thought it was my belt tension, but i adjusted that to spec, and it's still making that noise. It's been suggested that the pulley could be making that noise. But i was wondering if these problems could be interrelated?
#3
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sorry, i'm not sure what u mean by the alternator slipping? wouldn't that mean it doesn't produce any power at all?
i've gotten it tested before (I had battery problems a while ago), and it came out fine, don't remember the exact results, but they were operating normally.
Also what are u suggesting me to tighten on the alternator? there's only 2 bolts and the pulley that's all i can think of
i've gotten it tested before (I had battery problems a while ago), and it came out fine, don't remember the exact results, but they were operating normally.
Also what are u suggesting me to tighten on the alternator? there's only 2 bolts and the pulley that's all i can think of
#4
i know what you are saying..when i drive i notice my idle dropping, slightly, when i put the foot on the brake(lighting the brake lights seems to draw some power) when i have the ac on high..it seems to bog..but if i put the vent setting on half way it frees the idle up some..basically it seems that the more draw of power you introduce..the more the car seems to bogg down...sound familiar?>
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(lighting the brake lights seems to draw some power)
I have the same problem. When braking my idle drops
to about 500 RPM, but when I turn on the AC the Idle
kicks up and helps keep the RPM's up. It only becomes
a problem when I'm not running the AC. My car use to
stall every time I stoped so I started checking for ways
to make the Idle steadier.
Changing the O2 sensor helped steady the Idle alot, and
then I found that my TPS was bad. Now the car only stalls
when it is cold, and somtimes not then. Right now I am
checking my AC cut-out system. It's not performing like
the FSM says. I'm begining to think my ECU might not be
communicating properly with all the sensors. If my AC
cut-out system checks out I'm going to remove the ECU
and clean the terminals and am thinking of replacing the
ECU just for insurance. After all it's 15yrs old.
I have the same problem. When braking my idle drops
to about 500 RPM, but when I turn on the AC the Idle
kicks up and helps keep the RPM's up. It only becomes
a problem when I'm not running the AC. My car use to
stall every time I stoped so I started checking for ways
to make the Idle steadier.
Changing the O2 sensor helped steady the Idle alot, and
then I found that my TPS was bad. Now the car only stalls
when it is cold, and somtimes not then. Right now I am
checking my AC cut-out system. It's not performing like
the FSM says. I'm begining to think my ECU might not be
communicating properly with all the sensors. If my AC
cut-out system checks out I'm going to remove the ECU
and clean the terminals and am thinking of replacing the
ECU just for insurance. After all it's 15yrs old.
#6
Make certain belts are tight. The alternator belt can be deceiving. It can appear that the alt is revolving properly, but in fact the belt may be slipping, and not allowing the alt to turn at the correct speed. As for the erratic idle, check TPS adj, but the notorious BAC valve can create numerous idle flutuation problems. A lot of write ups on the subjects.
#7
Make certain belts are tight. The alternator belt can be deceiving. It can appear that the alt is revolving properly, but in fact the belt may be slipping, and not allowing the alt to turn at the correct speed. As for the erratic idle, check TPS adj, but the notorious BAC valve can create numerous idle flutuation problems. A lot of write ups on the subjects.
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#9
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so u guys are saying, tighten the bolt for the pulley? and check the BAC valve and TPS right?
damn, it's raining right now, guess i'll have to check it later
damn, it's raining right now, guess i'll have to check it later
#12
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The squealing is caused by a loose belt. You don't tighten the actual pulley on the alternator, you loosten the #12 (or 1/2 [#13] inch if it's a remanufactured alternator) and physically move the alternator UP using a pry-bar. Use a straight-edge and a ruler to measure the deflection of the belt(s).
As for the bobbing idle, that sounds like a more serrious problem... Do a Throttle Position Sensor adjustment/idle mixture adjustment. It's easy to do a TPS adjustment if you have all your emission solenoids hooked-up. When you press on the throttle lightly (under the hood obviously) you should hear a faint "click." press on it more, and there should be another. If you can move the throttle ~1/8 of an inch down and hear the first click, then you're okay. The proper way to do it is to make a light tester and use that. Oh, and get a shop manual. They're really helpful.
As for the bobbing idle, that sounds like a more serrious problem... Do a Throttle Position Sensor adjustment/idle mixture adjustment. It's easy to do a TPS adjustment if you have all your emission solenoids hooked-up. When you press on the throttle lightly (under the hood obviously) you should hear a faint "click." press on it more, and there should be another. If you can move the throttle ~1/8 of an inch down and hear the first click, then you're okay. The proper way to do it is to make a light tester and use that. Oh, and get a shop manual. They're really helpful.
#13
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ok, the loose belt i've already looked at, it's 1/4" deflection of 1/2" i can't remember, but i followed the haynes manual....that was done a while ago, and it still made the noise.
#14
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hmmm..... Did you check all the belts? If
so, then check the tensioner pullies (the ones for the A/C and P/S). Take the big nut off and remove the pulley; check them for slack in the bearings. Also turn the A/C, water-pump, alternator and P/S and check for roughness/grinding noises. Make sure the belts aren't glazed or cracking. If everything's good, then it may be a bad pilot/throw-out bearing on the clutch. Check the play on your clutch pedal. It should be able to move 1-1/2" before you feel pressure. Aside from that, I'm all out of ideas
If you still have your air-pump, check the hoses for that.
so, then check the tensioner pullies (the ones for the A/C and P/S). Take the big nut off and remove the pulley; check them for slack in the bearings. Also turn the A/C, water-pump, alternator and P/S and check for roughness/grinding noises. Make sure the belts aren't glazed or cracking. If everything's good, then it may be a bad pilot/throw-out bearing on the clutch. Check the play on your clutch pedal. It should be able to move 1-1/2" before you feel pressure. Aside from that, I'm all out of ideas
If you still have your air-pump, check the hoses for that.
#16
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally posted by Turbonut
1/4" to 1/2" deflection on alt belt, too loose. Tighten it up.
1/4" to 1/2" deflection on alt belt, too loose. Tighten it up.
Too tight will wear out the bearings in the alt and destroy it and the belt.
#17
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Originally posted by Icemark
No, that is wrong. Deflection on the alt belt should be between 14-17mm (.55"-.67").
Too tight will wear out the bearings in the alt and destroy it and the belt.
No, that is wrong. Deflection on the alt belt should be between 14-17mm (.55"-.67").
Too tight will wear out the bearings in the alt and destroy it and the belt.
#18
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Ok, well I finally got rid of my bad idle AND the squeeling noise from my alternator. You know what I did? I just cleaned the battery terminals....I think I'm even getting better gas mileage too!
#21
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the belt is properly set, i've checked it many times. Any yeah, I wouldn't have believed the better gas mileage myself, but i get a good 50-100km more per tank than i did before. I can't explain it, but i'm not complaining
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