I recently picked up a set of rear wide body fenders (pics to come soon) for my FC. I have done my fair share of body repair but nothing to this extent. If anyone out there has done the install them selves or knows any good tips please post any info including pics. It would be greatly appreciated.

 

Don't do the rivits! Weld 'em in and mold them on, but don't do the rivits!

 

bump......im about to do the same. if their fiberglass you cant weld them. i saw on the rate your fc thread a guy named turbo23 had them and riveted them on and they look great.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/rear-fender-wide-body-modification-375655/

 

rivet it on, paint and call it a day.

 

theres some kind of glue the bodyshops use....you could glue them on with that and blend it in ...then you won't have nasty rivets
just ask at a body shop they use on body panels i don't know the name of it

 

^Scotch tape?
Body panels aren't taped on WTF!!! If you don't know an answer step away from the keyboard and STFU.

To give a decent answer you have to ask yourself what you want the final product to look like.
If you like rivets...... rivit them on but I would use some 3M 5200 as an adhesive sealer to prevent leaks.
If you don't like rivets and the pieces are steel - sand the paint down, spray on some weld thru primer and TIG the bitches on than go crazy fairing them in. If they are glass, I would scuff the hell outta the paint - 60-80 grit scuff and make sure there is no wax left on the flares. Use some proper adhesive (I can't remember which - ask a pro) and then layer some kitty hair. Sand and bondo and skim and paint.

What kind of body work have you done? You should be able to handle something like this if you've repaired dents and did the prep work yourself.

FCS3drift - STFU if you don't know an answer.

 

Get the glue or whatever substance they use at body shops.

Fibreglass is a lot harder to work with than bondo, but its not that bad...as long as your quick and don't use too much hardener/activator.

 

buddy honestly why don't you go talk to anyone at a body shop before you go shootin your mouth off on the internet
i do belive i said it was a type of glue or adhesive not tape....
I have an uncle thats worked in a bodyshop for over 20 years and had suggested that to me when i was goin to replace the rear quarter panels on my GX
but hey you must know everything ...my bad


WTF retard i just read your post better you said exact same thing i told him to do
"If they are glass, I would scuff the hell outta the paint - 60-80 grit scuff and make sure there is no wax left on the flares. Use some proper adhesive (I can't remember which - ask a pro)"


take a look over yonder ya f****hick then you say i don't what i'm talking about and to STFU
i'm really getting sick of all the goofs on this forums that don't know jack but like to act like they know everything

 

AHAAHAHAAAHAHAAA!!!!! Yet you're the one asking which is the #1 rotor. DIAF you idiot.
Lets see...... are you your uncle? NO. Do you have your uncles experience? NO. Is your uncle standing over your shoulder while you post? Doubt it. Have you done any major body repairs or restored an entire car yourself? I really doubt it but you know what n00b... I HAVE.

You said use glue, I said a proper adhesive which is a world of difference. I cannot remember the exact brand as just about all of the fiberglass work I have done was almost purely in my marine experience where we use epoxy. I then proceeded to give a few detailed tips and brands to use and how to prep the area & how to fill in the gaps and fair everything out. Did you? No, you said glue it and blend it in with that stuff. Your ignorance is laughable - then you post this crap up and then send me a PM. Stop wasting my time & do evolution and favor - DIAF before you reproduce

 

The bodyshop that my car is at now used some kind of epoxy. He said that in the event that I get in an accident, the flares won't break off. They are part of the car now. He kicked them really hard and nothing happend. After using the epoxy, he sanded it down and used fiberglass to mould it into the body. I'll look for some pics that I took.

 

Most likey kitty hair for the first few layers and then the standard "bondo" of choice and some glazing putty to finish everything off. I'd love to see some pics though

Oh - I would also lay down a cuppa two tree wet coats of primer surfacer after you think you're done and then a guide coat on top. Block it amd make sure you're happy then go to the sealer. I would lay down at the min some primer if you use any more glaze after the guide coat.

 

Just an FYI:

You'll never bond two dissimailar materials and make it last indefinetely, it just doesn't happen.

It can work and work well for a decent period of time, but you'll always get read-through eventually even with the best materials and prepwork....always.

I'd recommend Proform or Lord Fusor panelbonding adhesives....3M makes some good stuff too but I've not used their's as much as the others. Lord fusor even makes one with glass beads in it so when its clamped, you can only squeeze the adhesive so hard before the beads stop the pressure and create a perfectly even layer (ideal thickness) of adhesive. Its manditory to use that on most OEM's as Lord Fusor is the supplier for 80% of them.

 

 

These are pictures of the fiberglassing, after the fenders were epoxied on. Basically, he test fitted the fenders, mounted them by skrewing them on. Cut them down to the proper size, removed the skrews, epoxied them on, feather sanded the excess epoxy, and fiberglassed the seams so everything looks flush.

The end result will look something like this:

 

I don't know how I like the gas inlet... It just doesn't sit right in my eyes... is there a piece attached to the stock door?

 

The end result pictures are of Santo's car. He was at the Shine BBQ out here in Socal. Your best bet would be to ask Ken from Shine auto. My gas door sits flush with the rear flare.

My gas door is the oem one. My body guy just made a bracket for it to extend out to sit flush. It works just like OEM, when I pull the cable, the door opens. You can see the difference between Santo's gas door and my gas door by looking at the above pictures.

 

I don't think the red one's his, Looking at the prep work shots and he said, "the end result will look something like this," leads me to think that his isn't done yet. Looks like the prep work shot features a nicer fitting gas door.

EDIT - beat me to it. Looks great so far!

 

Yeah, from the look of things I like what your body shop did with the bracket Idea. I was looking at Santo's car. His is the one that doesn't seem to sit right with me... No offense.

 

more pics of "santos" car please

 

search fusion. use fusion to glue it on, fiberglass and body fill, make it slick.

 

Here are some pics that I took of his car:

 

^hawt

 

definatly dont like the front

 

you shouldn't let these guys know they used epoxy ...they will say your dumb and then tell you to use epoxy


Hook on phonics obviously didn't work for titaniumtt
let me break down my post a bit so maybe you can understand it

I have an uncle thats worked in a bodyshop for over 20 years(*****this is where i am telling you who had said this to me****) and had suggested (****this is where he was telling me what he thought would work best******)that to me (****meaning somone with 20 years experience said this to me*****)when i was goin to replace the rear quarter panels on my GX (*****which would obviously be the same process as putting widebody fenders on****)

i hope this clears things up alittle bit for you titaniumtt i know how you can struggle with all them thar big words

by the time i get through dealing with all the tards here i should have a pretty high post count