Why might my redline buzzer be going off early?
#1
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Why might my redline buzzer be going off early?
i just noticed today while taking off from a light that my redline buzzer in my 87 t2 might be going off around 6 or so.
is this possible?
would the fact that i have a 90 motor in it have anything to do with it?
my car after about 4.5k rockets to 7k, but i know i didnt bring it up that far, i really never do unless im racing.
any ideas?
is this possible?
would the fact that i have a 90 motor in it have anything to do with it?
my car after about 4.5k rockets to 7k, but i know i didnt bring it up that far, i really never do unless im racing.
any ideas?
#3
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my clutch at times might be slipping as well. im not sure how bad it might be..but maybe that has something to do with it. i dont know.
thanks though
thanks though
#5
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it's not the tach, check the ground from the motor/ecu. usually cars that do it in my experience have the 3800 rpm hesitation. find the ground point, use thick gauge wire and a clean point free of paint etc...
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#8
Originally posted by RETed
Was this in 5th gear?  I've heard it triggering as low as 6.5k in 5th gear...
-Ted
Was this in 5th gear?  I've heard it triggering as low as 6.5k in 5th gear...
-Ted
damn, I gotta go for a ride in someone's car at that speed
How fast is that?
heheh
Fastest I've gone in a car is 205km/h@6200RPM in my fiero (redline is 6000, damn those 4:10 gears!)
#10
Lives on the Forum
Originally posted by Terrh
6.5k in 5th gear?
damn, I gotta go for a ride in someone's car at that speed
How fast is that?
6.5k in 5th gear?
damn, I gotta go for a ride in someone's car at that speed
How fast is that?
A Turbo II with full exhaust will easily hit those speeds if you got the cajones to hold the gas pedal that long...
-Ted
#11
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That's weird because last week I added ground from neg. post to fuse bracket near shock tower and another ground from there to alternator bracket.
I also have my fluid levels up and my shift buzzer still comes on early once in a while.
I would definetely like to know the fix...
I also have my fluid levels up and my shift buzzer still comes on early once in a while.
I would definetely like to know the fix...
#12
Originally posted by RETed
About 160mph.
A Turbo II with full exhaust will easily hit those speeds if you got the cajones to hold the gas pedal that long...
-Ted
About 160mph.
A Turbo II with full exhaust will easily hit those speeds if you got the cajones to hold the gas pedal that long...
-Ted
guess what the first mod to my '88 AE is going to be (after fixing the motor )
160mph
DAMN
I can't wait to get out west, with those perfectly straight traffic free roads for 100+KM
#14
Pineapple Racer
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On my n/a 90 i notice that it started going off at around 7k occasionally. Then a couple days ago, i ran it low on gas, and the shift buzzer whent off at 7k again. I though, maybe the cars buzzer will come on sooner when its low on gas...then i filled up, and it still goes off at 7k rpms. It kinda a pain, when i'm shifting it at 8k, were the redline begins. Anyone have any suggestions? I've allready regrounded everything. CJ
#15
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I'd like to know the fix for the shift buzzer too, because mines going off WAY early, 5grand somtimes(not all the time) but i dont think its gone off at redline for sometime, always early, as in before 7K....WTF?
#16
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Sorry to revive this thread but I have the same problem
I still cannot find the answer.
Anyone else have this problem or a solution
Thanks
I still cannot find the answer.
Anyone else have this problem or a solution
Thanks
#17
I have read somewhere that the tach can sometimes lag behind the actual RPMs in lower gears.
Try accelerating slowly to redline and see if the #s are the same. Remember, the buzzer is not all that accurate. I think new it had a 400 rpm range, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Also, on my 87, the tach needle will sometimes stick a little high. If I smack the dash it drops back in to place.=). Maybe yours is stuck low?
Try accelerating slowly to redline and see if the #s are the same. Remember, the buzzer is not all that accurate. I think new it had a 400 rpm range, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Also, on my 87, the tach needle will sometimes stick a little high. If I smack the dash it drops back in to place.=). Maybe yours is stuck low?
#21
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You are not alone!
Mine is going off at 5.5K like clockwork. Fluids are all good. It will do it again and again for 1 car ride and then perform correctly the next. I do get 3800 hesitations sometimes. Time to start grounding I suppose.
Mine is going off at 5.5K like clockwork. Fluids are all good. It will do it again and again for 1 car ride and then perform correctly the next. I do get 3800 hesitations sometimes. Time to start grounding I suppose.
#23
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Ah, man no one can search... too lazy I guess
covered at least once just in the last month...
The over rev buzzer is adjustable by a pot on the back of the tach.
If you look at the circuit board on the back of the tach (not the gauges, but the actual tach itself- 4 screws and remove it from the gauge assembly to get to the circuit board).
Anyway on the circuit board there is two (yep that is 2) adjustment pots. You want the metal one. Each half turn is worth about 500 RPM.
But do not touch the plastic pot as that adjusts the calibration for the tach itself. Only the metal pot adjusts the calibration of the over rev.
But before you adjust anything make sure that the trailing coil is firing properlly, as your tach may not be reading correctly, and be your whole problem. You'll need to check the tach lead at the coil with a multi-meter or test device that reads tach signal before adjusting anything.
And BlackFC_NYC fix your signature. The admins of the board only allow 6 lines for a signature. Yours looks to be 17 lines. Fix it before an admin sees it a deletes it without warning.
And DR_Toast any reason to reactivate a 2 year old dead thread, instead of just searching to see how to fix the problem?
covered at least once just in the last month...
The over rev buzzer is adjustable by a pot on the back of the tach.
If you look at the circuit board on the back of the tach (not the gauges, but the actual tach itself- 4 screws and remove it from the gauge assembly to get to the circuit board).
Anyway on the circuit board there is two (yep that is 2) adjustment pots. You want the metal one. Each half turn is worth about 500 RPM.
But do not touch the plastic pot as that adjusts the calibration for the tach itself. Only the metal pot adjusts the calibration of the over rev.
But before you adjust anything make sure that the trailing coil is firing properlly, as your tach may not be reading correctly, and be your whole problem. You'll need to check the tach lead at the coil with a multi-meter or test device that reads tach signal before adjusting anything.
And BlackFC_NYC fix your signature. The admins of the board only allow 6 lines for a signature. Yours looks to be 17 lines. Fix it before an admin sees it a deletes it without warning.
And DR_Toast any reason to reactivate a 2 year old dead thread, instead of just searching to see how to fix the problem?
Last edited by Icemark; 05-09-05 at 04:29 PM.