ericiscool

im just going to rebuild it and get rid of it

i found a guy thats been rebuilding motors for 39 years and has never done a rotory and wants to do one, so hes going to do it for free if i help (i just have to buy the parts)

so im going to get a book a good block since i think the guy over ported this one and the rotor housings have like 260,000 miles on them and then sell the SOB

soo im sick of seaching
whos got the cheepest rebuild kit im going to use as much of the 2 motors as posable witch if im lucky i will just need the seals and a good port job

unless some one wants to just buy it with a blown coolent seal and about 6000 miles on the motor

pm me if interested and ill give you details

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

RotaryAviation is the cheapest I believe

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i've been building engines for years also, these are no ordinary engines...


i hope you and he know what you are getting into.

ericiscool

actually not really iv resuched but have never pulled an engine and what do you mean no ordinary engine???

Syonyk

A rotary is completely different to rebuild from a normal piston engine. None of the parts are the same, none of the little tricks are the same.

-=Russ=-

ericiscool

yeah im not blikd about them im pretty confident about doing it

is there a way to do it for around $350???? im geting a junk yard motor and using as much of 2 motors as posable

Busted-7

find someone with a low mileage rebuild engine and buy it for $350. paying $350 to rebuild won't replace enough parts on the motor.

mcnannay

well you'll pay 182 bucks for the RA apex seals, 153 for the o rings, 48 for the vehicle installation gaskets... you're already up to $383 for what i consider pretty much the bare minimum...but i guess if you need it to be really cheap, skip the apex seals if the ones you got are in spec, so lets say you're up to $201

Now you're going to need supplies, brushes for cleaning, chemdip, degreaser, carb cleaner, razors, scotch pads, loctite, rtv silicone, hylomar, high tack rtv silicone, 52mm socket (2 1/8 SAE), Assembly lube, rubber bands, vaseline, oil, filters, belts, hoses, feeler gauges, torque wrench, some sort of flywheel puller, and other miscellaneous tools you don't have yet.
Assuming you probably have quite a few of these things, lets put this tab up to about $75.

Now lets hope you don't break any side seals getting them out, those are $10 through mazda trix, but if you break enough of em, might as well get the whole kit through atkins for about $100. Then theres gonna probably be some bolts you might break or strip that need replacing, possibly some internals that need replacing, you probably want to replace the corner seal buttons, those are pretty cheap, like $20 for a set or something.

So im saying bare bare bare minimum, you could probably do it for a little over 300, but ill tell you right now, i wouldn't want that engine.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

me neither, lol. Good luck with the rebuild and ripping off whoever gets that car j/k anyways you may want to get the rebuild video instead of a book so you can see exactly how to do everything. I don't know about you but I learn better visually so a book wouldn't help me much without pictures I know I'm dumb, lol. Also it may save you in the long run because it could save you from doing the wrong thing and braking something etc...

OverDriven

I planned on a cheap rebuild like yours. It never turns out that way. I'm about $700 into it now (front side housing was $105 and the RA kit was $550).

-Joe

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yup, i tried the cheap way and found out my rotor housings had electrolysis after three teardowns because the problem was not a very apparent or common thing on a rotary. i am up to $1k and i haven't even replaced the rotor housings yet..

BklynRX7

Your in for an expensive ride my friend( you most likely know) I brought my engine in for what was supposed ot be a $1900 rebuild and installation, and endd up spending almost $4000 due to noew rotor housing and plates.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the engine is running however it does bleed a small amount of pressure into the cooling system. i repaired the housings with J.B weld, it held surprisingly well for how many people told me i was an idiot, the rebuild has over 2k miles on it now and pulls 6psi boost fine but i can't sit in traffic for long periods or the cooling system will develop a big air pocket and overheat, as soon as i find a pair of usable rotor housings i will rebuild it again. if i can't find T2 housings i may wind up getting a set of NA housings and modify them to work as turbo housings.


i bought new side plates because i thought they were warped, they however were not the problem but the aluminum housings were all torn up but in spots that are not easily visible so they were easily overlooked.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/since-i-am-budget-now-jb-weld-my-friend-366162/

BlaCkPlaGUE

Those videos from rotary resurrection, mazdatrix, etc on engine rebuilding, do they go into detail at the begining to tell you EXACTLY what you need. This means EXACTLY what tools to have? It'd be nice to have a list of all the tools you need, so that when your halfway through it, you wont find out you gotta run out and buy some special tool to finish the job...

Andrew.

iTrader: (4)

rotary resurrection has a engine rebuild? and Mazdatrix? I got the atkins rebuild video yesterday and watched it, it's worth the money. They do tell you what tools you need, I would of liked the video to have a full removal from when you shut off your car to start the rebuild to when you start it up. It starts off in shortblock form and ends in shortblock.

-Andrew